Real Milk Paint , Orange Peel Oil, Natural Alternative to Odorless Mineral Spirits, Paint Thinner, Degreaser, Brush Cleaner, 16 oz

A plant-based solvent that actually pulls its weight

I’ve been trying to replace a few of my shop’s petroleum standbys with safer, better-smelling options. Swapping out mineral spirits is tough—few alternatives clean brushes as well, thin oil finishes predictably, and cut through grime without side effects. Real Milk Paint’s Orange Peel Oil has become the first substitute that I reach for without feeling like I’m compromising on performance.

This is a simple product: roughly 98% citrus peel oil (d‑limonene) and 2% water. No emulsifiers, no surfactants, no petroleum additives. It behaves like a true solvent and evaporates cleanly. In practice, that means it can thin oils, dissolve oily spillovers, and lift oil-based paints without leaving a residue that might interfere with finishing.

Setup and handling

Out of the bottle, the first thing you notice is the aroma—bright, unmistakably orange. It’s pleasant, but it’s still a solvent, and the scent is strong during use. I work with a fan in a window or outdoors when possible. The liquid pours like a light oil and flashes off more slowly than typical mineral spirits, which ends up being an advantage for some finishing tasks.

I decant small amounts into a glass jar as a working cup and keep the original container tightly sealed. Citrus oil can soften some plastics and rubber; glass, metal, or HDPE are safer bets for storage and applicators. Like any solvent, it’s flammable—keep it away from sparks, pilot lights, and heat sources.

Thinning tung oil and other oil finishes

This is where Orange Peel Oil shines. For raw tung oil, I start with a 1:1 mix for the first coat to improve penetration, then step down to 2:1 (oil:solvent) for subsequent coats. The longer open time compared to mineral spirits helps the oil level and soak uniformly, especially on thirsty species like pine and ash. I’ve used the mix on a pine tabletop and a set of maple shelves; both benefited from deeper penetration and fewer lap marks than I typically see with faster-evaporating thinners.

Dry-time remains driven by the oil itself, not the solvent. Expect the first few coats to feel dry within 24 hours in good airflow, with full cure stretching over days to weeks depending on temperature and humidity. Importantly, I haven’t noticed any residue or film left by the solvent—wiped surfaces feel clean and ready for subsequent coats.

A note on color: citrus solvent won’t “amber” a finish the way some oil-modified products can. It doesn’t add color on its own, but tung oil will warm the wood slightly as usual. If you’re working on pale woods and wish to minimize yellowing, keep your oil coats thin and well-wiped.

Brush cleaning for oil paints and varnishes

For oil-based paint and oil-varnish blends, this has replaced my odorless mineral spirits. I use a two-jar routine:

• Jar 1: Dirty first rinse. Work the brush bristles well.
• Jar 2: Clean rinse. Comb bristles to finish.

Let the first jar sit overnight and decant the clean solvent off the settled pigment to reuse. You’ll use less over time and keep costs in check.

It’s effective enough that I’ve salvaged brushes I would have written off with traditional spirits—especially when cutting through partially cured oil varnish around the ferrule. It’s also excellent for cleaning metal tools after waxing or oiling.

As with any solvent, avoid prolonged skin contact. Citrus oil can cause irritation or sensitization for some people. Nitrile gloves and a hand wash with soap after cleanup are smart habits.

Degreaser and adhesive remover

On metal parts and shop surfaces, Orange Peel Oil dissolves grease, paste wax build-up, label adhesive, and tape residue quickly. I use it to prep machined cast-iron tool tops before waxing and to clean resin build-up on clamps. One caveat: citrus oil can soften certain plastics and finishes. Test it on an inconspicuous area before tackling plastic housings, rubber grips, or unknown coatings, and avoid acrylics and polystyrene entirely.

For household jobs, it’s powerful on range hood filters and sticky residue—but remember that it’s still a solvent. Rinse with a mild detergent afterward and ventilate.

Spot paint removal and mistake fixing

It’s aggressive enough to soften fresh oil-based drips, splatters, and smudges without the harsher fumes associated with lacquer thinner or xylene. If you’re careful, you can lift an errant brush mark or clean an edge without etching surrounding finishes. On fully cured polyurethane and factory finishes, I proceed cautiously and always test first—citrus oil can haze or soften some topcoats if left to dwell.

Odor and indoor use

The orange scent is a highlight compared to the petroleum tang of mineral spirits, but it does fill a room. With good airflow, the smell dissipates by the next day. If you’re sensitive to fragrances, run a fan and limit exposure—pleasant doesn’t necessarily mean mild, and citrus volatiles can trigger headaches for some people.

Environmental profile and safety

The appeal here is obvious: plant-derived, biodegradable, and free of petroleum additives. It’s still a VOC and should be treated with the same respect as any solvent—ventilate, wear gloves, and keep away from flames. Dispose of used solvent and sludge according to local regulations. And remember that oil-soaked rags (tung oil included) can spontaneously combust. Lay rags flat to dry outdoors or store them in a sealed, water-filled container until you can dispose of them properly.

Performance compared to mineral spirits

• Cleaning power: On oil-based residues, it’s at least as effective and often faster.
• Open time: Slightly longer, which benefits leveling and penetration when thinning oils.
• Residue: None that I’ve observed—surfaces feel clean after wipe-down.
• Odor: Strong but pleasant, and less “stale” than OMS. Ventilation still required.
• Compatibility: Great with oils and oil-based paints; not for water-based finishes or shellac.
• Cost: Significantly higher per ounce.

The price is the sticking point. For large-scale degreasing or stripping, I still reach for cheaper options outdoors. For indoor finishing, brush cleaning, and any job where odor and workability matter, I prefer the citrus.

Practical tips from the bench

• Mix ratios: Start 1:1 with raw tung oil for the first coat, then reduce solvent in later coats.
• Economize: Wipe excess paint/oil from brushes before cleaning; use a two-jar system and decant to reuse.
• Test surfaces: Always try it on a hidden spot when working near plastics or unknown finishes.
• Storage: Keep in glass, metal, or HDPE; avoid soft plastics and rubber.
• Ventilate: Treat it like a solvent—fans and open windows make a difference.
• Rag safety: Manage oil-soaked rags to prevent combustion.

Limitations

• Cost per ounce is high, especially if you go through a lot of solvent.
• Fragrance, while pleasant, can be overwhelming in small, closed spaces.
• Potential to soften plastics and certain finishes; requires patch tests.
• Not a universal thinner—don’t use with waterborne products or shellac.

Who it’s for

If you work with oil finishes, oil paints, or do indoor maintenance where fumes matter, Orange Peel Oil is a great fit. Woodworkers finishing furniture, artists cleaning brushes, and DIYers who want a plant-based solvent with predictable behavior will appreciate it. If your primary use is heavy stripping, outdoor degreasing, or budget-driven tasks, its strengths are less compelling.

Recommendation

I recommend Orange Peel Oil as a primary shop solvent for oil-based finishing and cleanup, especially for indoor work and food-adjacent projects where a clean-evaporating, plant-derived thinner is desirable. It matches or exceeds mineral spirits in solvency, leaves no residue, and provides a longer, more forgiving open time when thinning oils. The price and strong citrus scent are real trade-offs, and you need to be mindful around plastics and certain finishes, but the day-to-day experience is excellent. For me, it’s earned a permanent place on the finishing shelf, with mineral spirits relegated to the rare, messy jobs where cost is king.