Airmont Products (Pack of Box and Cover) 4x2 Inch Utility Electrical Box, Outlet Box, Blank Utility Size Cover, Drawn Construction, Ten ½’’ Knockouts, Raised Ground, 1-7/8” Deep, 13 Cu. in. Capacity, Galvanized Steel

What it is and where it fits

I put the Airmont 4x2 handy box and blank cover to work on a small surface‑mounted circuit expansion in a garage and a couple of quick junctions in a basement. It’s the classic 1‑gang “utility” or “handy” box format—4x2 inches, drawn steel construction, 1-7/8 inches deep, with a modest 13 cu. in. capacity—and it ships with a matching blank cover. That makes it well-suited for exposed work, quick junctions, and stub-outs where you don’t need a device showing yet. It’s also listed as acceptable for use in 2‑hour fire-rated walls, which opens the door for code-sensitive commercial retrofits if you follow the applicable install details.

Build quality and finish

The box is drawn from 1/16-inch pre-galvanized steel. In practice, that translates to a rigid body with smooth corners and enough heft to hold its shape when you’re tightening locknuts or connectors. The galvanizing is even, and the edges on my sample were clean—no burrs that needed dressing. The cover plate is a simple blank with a consistent finish that matched the box well, and the cover screws threaded cleanly into the tapped holes.

I prefer drawn boxes over welded ones for exposed work; they tend to be squarer, with fewer seam high spots, and that shows up when a cover needs to sit flat against a wall or painted surface. This one sat flush and didn’t “teeter” when mounted.

Knockouts and grounding

There are ten 1/2-inch knockouts in total—six along the long sides, two on the short ends, and two on the back. They’re neither overly tight nor floppy; I could pop them with a screwdriver and pliers without deforming the wall. The layout helps when you’re threading EMT or flexible conduit from different directions without crowding fittings.

A raised ground is built into the box with a pre-tapped hole. Mine came with a green ground screw and a pigtail, which made bonding quick. Even if yours doesn’t include a pigtail, the raised ground and pre-tapped hole are exactly what you want for a clean, reliable bond.

Capacity, devices, and code math

At 13 cubic inches, this is a compact enclosure. For simple junctions or a single shallow device, it’s fine. For anything more ambitious, you’ll bump into volume and physical space limits fast—especially with #12 conductors or pigtail-heavy splices.

A quick NEC-style volume check helps:

• Each #14 conductor = 2.0 cu. in.; each #12 = 2.25 cu. in.
• All equipment grounds together count as one conductor of the largest gauge present.
• The device yoke counts as two conductors of the largest gauge present.
• Internal clamps, if present, count as one (this box doesn’t have internal clamps).

So with #14 wire and a single switch (no internal clamp), you’re looking at two volumes for the device plus whatever conductors actually enter and leave. It adds up fast. With #12 wire, the headroom is even smaller. Practically, I treat this as a one-device or light-junction box: one cable in/one out plus grounds and a device is comfortable; two in/one out with pigtails pushes the limit and requires careful conductor management.

As for fitting a GFCI receptacle, physically it’s a squeeze. The depth is 1-7/8 inches, which is shy once you factor in the back body of a modern GFCI plus the bend radius of #12. I could make a shallow-profile GFCI work on the bench with #14 and minimal splices, but in the field with #12, real-world pigtails, and conduit fittings, it’s not my first choice. For GFCI and chunky smart switches, I prefer a deeper device box and more volume.

Installation experience

I surface-mounted the box on a masonry wall with tapcons using the standard mounting holes, then ran 1/2-inch EMT into a side knockout and a flexible whip out the back. The knockouts released cleanly and took standard connectors without distortion. The drawn body held square as I tightened locknuts—no oil-canning or “smiles” around the openings.

The raised ground location is sensible; there’s enough room to route a ground pigtail without crushing it under a device yoke. The cover sat flat with the supplied screws, and the fit was snug with no rattle.

One small but appreciated detail: the screw holes were properly tapped and free of overspray or galvanizing slag, so the cover screws didn’t cross-thread, and I didn’t need to chase the threads.

Where it excels

• Quick junctions in exposed work: The included blank cover makes it a tidy, code-compliant splice point.
• Surface-mounted receptacles or switches in tight spots: Works well with standard duplex or toggle devices, especially with #14 conductors and minimal splicing.
• Conduit-fed stubs: Ten knockouts give you routing flexibility without stacking multiple couplings or bending yourself into a corner.
• Fire-rated assemblies: If your design calls for boxes approved for use in 2-hour fire-rated walls, this box checks that box (verify the assembly details and listing for your jurisdiction).

Limitations to consider

• Volume is limited: 13 cu. in. is not forgiving. Don’t plan on multiple cables, a device, and big wirenuts. Calculate your volume allowance before committing.
• Not ideal for GFCIs or bulky smart devices: Depth and volume constraints make them awkward, especially with #12 conductors.
• The pack includes a blank cover only: If you’re mounting a receptacle or switch, you’ll need a device cover or faceplate that matches this footprint.
• Not a wet-location solution: The galvanized finish is durable, but this isn’t a gasketed, weatherproof enclosure. For damp or wet locations, use an appropriate weatherproof box and cover.

Durability and long-term outlook

The pre-galvanized steel should hold up well in dry and typical garage/basement environments. Scratches didn’t flake, and the finish didn’t powder off while I worked the knockouts. The drawn construction and thickness inspire confidence; once mounted, it feels solid and resists flex when you’re plugging and unplugging a device or snugging down connectors.

Practical tips

• Plan your conductor count and device choice before you pull wire. If you’re nearing the volume limit, step up to a deeper box with more cubic inches.
• Use shallow devices where possible. Standard toggles and duplex receptacles fit comfortably; GFCIs are hit or miss.
• Keep your pigtails tidy and short (within code), and use compact wirenuts or Wago-style connectors to save space.
• If you’re installing in a fire-rated wall, follow the approved assembly details—box spacing, putty pads, and penetration sealing can all be required.

Value

For a combo that includes the box and a matching blank cover, the value is strong. You can outfit a junction cleanly without hunting down a compatible cover, and the construction quality is a step above the flimsy sheet-metal boxes that deform the moment a locknut bites. I’d happily standardize on these for exposed work where a compact 1‑gang box is appropriate.

Recommendation

I recommend the Airmont 4x2 handy box and cover for exposed work and compact junctions where a 13 cu. in. box is sufficient. The drawn steel body, clean galvanizing, sensible knockout layout, and raised ground make installation straightforward and durable, and the included blank cover lets you close up a splice point immediately. Just be mindful of its limits: it’s not the right box for GFCI receptacles or busy splices, and it’s not intended for wet locations. If your use case fits its size and environment, it’s a reliable, no-nonsense choice that installs cleanly and holds up well.