Black & Decker Alligator Lopper

Why I reached for the Alligator Lopper

A windstorm left my yard littered with waist‑high brush and a tangle of small limbs, and I didn’t feel like wrestling a full chainsaw around the hedges. That’s where the Alligator Lopper earned its keep. It looks like a cross between a set of pruning shears and a miniature chainsaw: two clamping jaws straddle the branch, and a 6-inch bar-and-chain runs inside those jaws to make the cut. In practice, it turns many awkward trimming jobs into simple scissor squeezes, with a much lower pucker factor than an exposed bar.

Setup and battery platform

This model runs on Black & Decker’s 20V MAX system. Mine came as a bare tool, so I supplied a 2.0Ah pack and a charger I already owned. If you’re not in the 20V MAX ecosystem, factor in the extra cost of a battery and charger; once you are, it’s nice to share packs across trimmers, drills, and other yard tools.

Out of the box, setup was limited to topping up the bar-and-chain oil and checking chain tension. The oil reservoir is small and clear-sided, making it easy to see the level. Keep a bottle of bar oil handy; under steady cutting I had to top up roughly every 10–15 minutes. That’s normal for a small oiler but worth planning for.

Battery life depends on what you cut. On mixed hardwood branches between 1–2 inches, I averaged about half an hour on a 1.5Ah pack and closer to 40 minutes with a 2.0Ah. The manufacturer’s estimate of up to 150 cuts of 1.5-inch branches per charge is reasonable with a fresh battery and sharp chain.

Cutting performance

The lopper is rated for up to 4-inch material. That’s a fair ceiling, but I found its sweet spot to be 2–3 inches. On dry, dead limbs, the jaws stabilize the cut beautifully; the branch can’t roll, and there’s essentially no kickback because the chain is shielded. On green, springy wood, the clamping action still helps, but you’ll need to keep steady pressure so the chain maintains bite.

A few technique notes improved my results:

• Aim for horizontal or slightly angled cuts when possible. With the branch seated in the jaws and the tool level, the chain tracks cleanly and doesn’t bind.
• For vertical stems and small saplings, the fixed jaws can push the material forward before the chain fully severs it, which leads to jams. Pre-scoring with a shallow bite, then finishing from a second angle, prevents that hang-up. The tool isn’t intended for felling, even small trees, and it’s simply not the right geometry for that job.
• Let the chain work. If you squeeze too aggressively or twist the head mid-cut, you’ll notice a chewed finish. A sharp chain and a steady squeeze produce much cleaner results.
• Keep the chain tensioned. The compact bar heats quickly; a too-loose chain will wander, especially in harder species.

In hardwood brush like manzanita and oak suckers, the tool impressed me. I cleared a large pile of 2–3.5-inch stems rapidly, and the ability to cut while holding the work in place made the process efficient. When I pushed up near 4 inches, it still made the cut, but it was noticeably slower and the finish wasn’t as clean. If you routinely cut close to the max capacity, a compact chainsaw might be more satisfying.

Ergonomics and control

At roughly 6.8 pounds, the lopper isn’t featherlight, but the weight feels manageable and largely centered toward the head. The two-handed safety triggers mean you always have a hand on each grip, which keeps the tool stable but also limits reach in some scenarios. Over-shoulder cuts get tiring faster than chest-level work, and I avoided any cuts above shoulder height—good practice for any saw.

The big win here is confidence. The jaw guards shield the chain, and the scissor motion means you’re clamping the work before the chain spins. That makes it far less intimidating than a bare-bar saw, especially for users who don’t run chainsaws often. The pay-off is maneuverability: the head is bulkier than a pruning saw, so getting into tight crotches or making flush cuts against a trunk can be tricky. You need some clearance on both sides of the branch for the jaws to straddle it.

Noise and vibration are modest. It’s significantly quieter than gas equipment, and the lack of fumes makes it a good option for neighborhood yards.

Maintenance and upkeep

• Bar and chain oil: Plan on frequent top-ups. The reservoir is small by design; frequent refills keep the chain lubricated but interrupt the workflow. I kept a squeeze bottle in my back pocket.
• Chain care: Just like any chainsaw, this tool performs best with a sharp, properly tensioned chain. A dull chain is the fastest route to ragged cuts and extra heat. Check tension every few cuts until you get a feel for how the chain settles.
• Storage: Like most chain tools, it can weep a little oil in storage. Park it on a rag or tray.
• Replacement parts: Standard consumables—bar, chain, and oil cap—are available. The 6-inch bar and chain are easy to swap.

The 2-year limited warranty is in line with expectations for this class.

Where it shines (and where it doesn’t)

Shines:
- Brush clearing and post-storm cleanup where branches are between 1–3 inches.
- Limbing low and mid-height branches where stability and safety matter more than ultimate speed.
- Users already in the 20V MAX platform who want a safer alternative to a mini chainsaw.

Not ideal:
- Felling even small trees or cutting vertical stems where the jaws can’t get a secure bite.
- Flush cuts tight to a trunk—the guards need space to straddle the branch.
- Extended overhead work; the head-heavy balance gets tiring above shoulder height.
- Long sessions without maintenance breaks—frequent oiling and occasional tension checks are part of the routine.

Practical tips from the yard

• Stage your cuts. Work from the outside in to avoid binding branches under tension.
• For fibrous or sappy species, clean the bar and chain periodically; resin buildup will slow the cut.
• If a cut starts to wander or the finish looks fuzzy, sharpen before you push on. The difference is immediate.
• Keep two batteries if you have a lot to clear. One charges while the other runs, and your arms will likely appreciate the pause.

Alternatives to consider

If you often cut right at the 4-inch mark, a compact 10–12 inch cordless chainsaw will be faster and give you more flexibility for felling or flush cuts. If your material is mostly under 1.5 inches, a high-quality lopper or reciprocating saw with a pruning blade can be lighter and simpler. The Alligator Lopper slots neatly between those options, trading some maneuverability for control and safety.

The bottom line

The Alligator Lopper is a thoughtful solution for homeowners who want chainsaw capability with far less drama. Its guarded, scissor-style action stabilizes the work and inspires confidence, and within its comfort zone—branches and brush up to about 3 inches—it’s efficient and genuinely pleasant to use. The trade-offs are real: the head is bulky, overhead work gets tiring, vertical stems can jam if you don’t adjust your technique, and you’ll be refilling bar oil more often than you might expect. But treated as a limb-and-brush specialist rather than a do-everything saw, it’s a valuable addition to a 20V MAX kit.

Recommendation: I recommend the Alligator Lopper for homeowners and property owners who prioritize safety and control when trimming branches and clearing brush up to 3 inches, occasionally stretching to 4. It’s especially compelling if you already own Black & Decker 20V batteries. If you need to fell saplings, make flush cuts, or regularly tackle 4-inch hardwood, consider a compact chainsaw instead; you’ll gain speed and versatility at the expense of the Alligator Lopper’s excellent stability and guarded design.