Leviton 2-Pole 3-Wire Grounding Cord Outlet, 3W102-E, Black

Why I reached for this connector

Halfway through trimming hedges one weekend, I did what many homeowners eventually do: I nicked an extension cord. Rather than toss an otherwise good cord, I used this Leviton cord outlet to rebuild the female end and get back to work. I’ve since used it on a couple of cords and one appliance tail, and it’s become a handy fix-it part to keep in the shop.

This is a simple, grounded, 2-pole/3-wire cord outlet with a hinged body and an integrated strain relief. It’s designed for 18–12 AWG conductors and provides one standard grounded outlet on the end of a cord. In practice, that makes it perfect for repairing a damaged extension cord or creating a custom-length cord set.

Build quality and design

The shell is a tough-feeling PVC that shrugs off the kind of grime and splash you encounter outdoors. It’s not a sealed connector—there’s no gasket or boot—so I treat it like any typical cord end: fine around damp grass and the occasional drizzle, but not for standing water or long-term exposure. The hinge and latch mechanism are the heart of the design. The hinge makes assembly far less fiddly than two-piece bodies that try to spring apart as you’re routing conductors, and the latch snaps positively without feeling brittle.

The built-in cord grip is the other thoughtful touch. It automatically conforms to the jacket diameter within reason, so the tension ends up on the outer jacket, not the individual conductors. On a 14/3 SJTW cord, the grip held firmly and didn’t chew up the jacket. On a chunky 12/3, I could still close the body securely, but it took a little finesse to seat the jacket straight. If you’re working with very thick, rubber-jacketed cable with an oversized OD, plan on stepping up to a heavier-duty connector; this one is sized for common household extension cords, not oversized industrial cable.

Installation: fast, with a little wire-dressing finesse

Here’s what my typical install looked like, start to finish:

• Cut the cord clean, square, and remove any ragged copper.
• Strip back about 1–1.25 inches of outer jacket to expose the three conductors.
• Strip each conductor to the recommended length (I go just under the terminal’s width to keep copper fully under the clamp).
• Open the hinged body, feed the jacketed cord into position so the grip lands on the jacket, not the individual wires.
• Land the conductors: hot to brass, neutral to silver, ground to green. The terminals are color-coded, and the clamps bite cleanly on copper.
• Dress the wires into the pockets, keeping bends gentle and the conductors flat.
• Close the body and snap the latch; check that the housing is fully seated all around.

On a 16/3 and 14/3 cord, this takes just a few minutes. The only time I needed to slow down was with 12/3, where the interior volume gets snug and you have to be precise with wire lengths and bends. If you cut the conductors too long, closing the body becomes a wrestling match; trim them to the minimum that still seats fully under the terminal clamps.

A couple of practical tips:
- Keep the jacket long enough for the strain relief to engage the jacket fully. If you expose too much conductor, you’ll defeat the grip.
- Pre-bend the conductors into gentle arcs before you land them; it helps them nest without bulging.
- Tug test after assembly: pull the cord jacket firmly. The body shouldn’t slip, and the latch shouldn’t pop.

Ergonomics and fit

This connector is notably more compact than many of the big, round repair ends you find at home centers. That’s helpful if you need it to fit into the recessed inlet shrouds common on yard tools. It still isn’t as svelte as a factory-molded cap, but on my hedge trimmer and edger, it slid into the guard recess without needing to force anything. On one older blower with an unusually narrow recess, it fit but with little clearance.

If your tools have deep, narrow recesses around their male blades, measure—or be ready with a slimmer option as a backup. For general use on cords that plug into outlets or outdoor covers, the profile is nicely unobtrusive and easy to grip with gloved hands.

Electrical performance and safety

Over repeated uses under load, the connector stayed cool, which tells me the terminal contact and wire clamping are doing their job. Blade retention feels solid; plugs insert with a reassuring friction and don’t wobble. Polarity is straightforward with color-coded terminals, but it still pays to double-check your connections. After assembly, I like to test with a simple receptacle tester to verify hot/neutral orientation and the ground connection.

A few safety reminders:
- De-energize and verify before working on any cord.
- Match conductor sizes to the connector’s supported range (18–12 AWG).
- Use a GFCI-protected circuit for outdoor tools.
- Don’t use this as a weatherproof solution; it’s moisture-resistant, not watertight.

Durability in use

I’ve left one of these on a frequently used outdoor cord through a full season. The housing shows scuffs but no cracks, the latch still snaps positively, and the strain relief hasn’t loosened. The PVC doesn’t get gummy in heat or overly brittle in cool weather. It’s not an “industrial” connector in the rubber-body sense, but for homeowner and light jobsite duties, it holds up well.

If you routinely drag cords across concrete on construction sites or subject them to heavy abrasion and impacts, you’ll get more longevity from a heavier, rubberized body with replaceable strain relief hardware. For the average garage-and-yard routine, this hits the right balance of durability and convenience.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Jacket size tolerance: It handles common SJTW cords in 16/3 and 14/3 effortlessly; 12/3 works with care. Oversized jackets or extra-flex rubber cables may be too fat to close cleanly.
• Interior space: With larger conductors, expect a snug fit that requires tidy wire dressing.
• Not sealed: Moisture-resistant isn’t weatherproof. If you need a connector that can live outdoors full-time, look for an option with a gasketed cover or a molded end.
• Not heavy-duty: For repeated drops, crushing, or harsh solvents, step up to an industrial-grade connector.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and homeowners who need a quick, safe repair for a damaged extension cord.
• Pros who want a compact, hinged-body connector for light-duty cords on service calls.
• Anyone building a custom-length cord set in the 18–12 AWG range and prefers a low-profile end over bulky repair caps.

It’s less ideal for people working with oversize cable or those who need a truly sealed, heavy-duty solution.

Value and alternatives

The value proposition is strong: it’s faster to assemble than two-piece bodies, more compact than the big round repair ends, and sufficiently rugged for typical outdoor chores. If you prefer an even more compact factory look and can live without field-serviceability, replacing the entire cord or buying a molded-ended pigtail is cleaner—but also pricier and less flexible. If you need maximum toughness and jacket range, a rubber-body, heavy-duty connector with a screw-on clamp is the next step up, at the cost of added bulk.

Final recommendation

I recommend this Leviton cord outlet for repairing or building standard 3-wire grounded cords in the 18–12 AWG range when you want a compact, easy-to-assemble connector that holds up to regular yard and shop use. The hinged design and built-in strain relief make installation quick, the terminals clamp securely, and the profile is slim enough to work with most tool recesses. Just be mindful of jacket diameter—very thick cords may be a squeeze—and remember it’s moisture-resistant, not weatherproof. For most homeowners and light-duty users, it’s a reliable, no-drama way to get a good cord back in service.