PetrelWing Kitchen Sink Drain Kit,1-1/2" Sink Drain Plumbing Kit - Universal P-Trap Replacement for Kitchen & Bathroom Sinks with Pipe Repair Accessories

Why I reached for this drain kit

Under-sink plumbing is one of those projects that looks simple until you’re crawling on your back juggling mismatched parts and a bucket. I’ve been burned by piecemeal fixes before, so for my latest kitchen refresh I opted for an all-in-one approach and installed the PetrelWing drain kit. It’s a 30‑piece, 1-1/2 inch tubular PVC kit designed to cover the usual suspects: P-traps, S-traps (where code allows), end- or center-outlet waste on double bowls, and connections to either a wall or floor drain. After a weekend with it, here’s how it actually performs.

What’s in the box and what it fits

The kit includes the core pieces you expect: a J-bend, a wall bend, a straight tailpiece, a slip-joint extension, and a healthy pile of slip nuts and TPE slip-joint washers. There’s enough hardware to configure a standard P-trap, adapt for a double-bowl sink (end or center outlet), and fine-tune the offsets without extra store runs. Everything is molded from white PVC.

A quick reality check on size: this is a 1-1/2 inch tubular kit. That’s the compression style used under most kitchen sinks. It is not Schedule 40 solvent-weld pipe. If your stub-out from the wall is 1-1/2 inch Schedule 40 (OD ~1.9 inches) you’ll need a trap adapter at the wall to transition from Schedule 40 to 1-1/2 inch tubular compression. Once you have that, the kit pieces connect as expected. If you’re tying into a 1-1/4 inch bathroom tailpiece, plan on a 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 reducing washer (not always included in combo kits), or simply use a 1-1/4 trap kit in that scenario.

In my case, I used it on a standard double-bowl kitchen sink with a wall stub-out. The included parts covered both bowls and the trap without any extra fittings.

Installation experience

The headline experience: I did not need any glue, and I barely needed tools. Slip-joint assemblies live or die by their washers, and the TPE washers in this kit seat nicely. Hand-tight force on the slip nuts was enough to get me leak-free joints. I kept a pair of channel locks nearby for a cautious eighth-turn on a couple of nuts, but it turned out unnecessary.

Layout was straightforward:
- I dry-fit the tailpiece and J-bend to establish trap height.
- I used the wall bend to meet the stub-out, trimming the extension tube with a fine-tooth saw to hit the alignment sweet spot.
- For the double-bowl connection, I arranged an end-outlet waste to keep the trap arm short and maintain good slope.

Expect to cut at least one straight piece to length; that’s normal with modular kits. PVC cuts cleanly with a hacksaw or miter saw—just remember to deburr the edges so the washers seat properly. I like to mark each joint once I’m happy with the layout, then disassemble, install washers in the right orientation (taper facing the sealing surface), and reassemble for the final tighten.

One small but welcome detail: the slip nuts thread smoothly and didn’t cross-thread, which is more than I can say for some bargain-bin kits. The threads are crisp, and the PVC tolerances are consistent enough that you’re not fighting for alignment.

Sealing and day-to-day use

Compression joints can be finicky, especially at the trap outlet and the wall bend. I pressure tested with a full sink and a few rapid dumps to simulate a dishwasher discharge. Everything held without drips. The TPE washers appear slightly firmer than the very soft rubber you find in cheaper kits, and they didn’t deform when tightened by hand. I didn’t use thread tape on any slip-joint threads (you shouldn’t), and I didn’t need pipe dope.

Hot water is always a concern with PVC. I ran several cycles of near-boiling discharge from kettle dumps and long hot tap flows; the tubes didn’t soften or sag. PVC isn’t as heat-tolerant as metal, but for typical kitchen temps it’s fine. Alkali resistance is a plus in kitchens where mild cleaners are common.

Configurability and real-world scenarios

The value of a kit like this is flexibility. A few highlights from my setup and tests:
- P-trap vs S-trap: The pieces allow either, but a P-trap with a proper vent is the right choice in most homes. S-traps are often not code-compliant because they can siphon dry. It’s helpful the parts can do both for older floor-drain installations, but check your local code.
- Double-bowl sinks: There are enough straight sections and connectors to arrange end- or center-outlet waste, which impacts how much cabinet space you keep free. I prefer end-outlet on asymmetrical bowls; this kit handled that without hunting for an extra tee.
- Vertical and horizontal play: Between the wall bend and the extension tube, you can correct for a stub-out that’s a few inches off in either direction. The modular approach saves you from committing to a fixed geometry before you know exactly where things will land.

If you’re connecting a dishwasher or accessory line, you’ll either attach it at a disposer inlet or use a branch tailpiece with a hose nipple. If your sink or disposer doesn’t provide a connection, budget for that branch tailpiece as a separate part unless your specific kit variant includes one.

Build quality and materials

The PVC is heavier than the paper-thin tubular I see on discount racks. It’s not industrial-grade, but the walls are consistent and the bends are smooth inside, which helps flow and reduces gunk buildup. Slip nuts feel sturdy, and the mating surfaces are true, which is why the washers seal so easily. Being white, the system also makes it easier to spot any moisture or staining during a quick flashlight inspection.

One design choice I appreciate: no overly glossy finish. A slightly matte PVC surface grips the washers better and resists the “washer squeeze-out” you get on ultra-slick plastics when tightening.

Limitations and gotchas

• Schedule 40 transition: If you’re staring at a glued Schedule 40 hub in the wall, you’ll need a trap adapter. That’s standard practice, but it’s the one piece people often forget.
• 1-1/4 inch bathroom applications: This is a kitchen-weight 1-1/2 inch kit. You can step down with a reducing washer, but for a small lavatory sink I’d use a 1-1/4 tubular kit instead.
• Code considerations: The parts can form an S-trap, but many jurisdictions prohibit them. Stick to a P-trap with proper venting.
• Clearance and cabinet layout: Double-bowl assemblies can eat space quickly. Measure twice and plan your waste orientation (end vs center outlet) to keep room for bins or a water filter.

Tips for a smooth install

• Dry-fit everything first. Mark nut and tube positions with a sharpie so reassembly is faster.
• Deburr every cut. A clean edge prevents washer nicks and micro-leaks.
• Hand-tighten first, then test with a full sink. Only add a tiny extra turn if you see weeping.
• Maintain slope on horizontal runs—about 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain.
• If you’re replacing a metal trap, add that trap adapter at the wall now; it’ll save frustration later.

Value and who it’s for

As a one-box solution, this kit earns its keep by preventing multiple trips for “one more fitting.” The 30 pieces cover the common permutations a homeowner or pro will see under a kitchen sink, and the washer quality is a cut above the flimsy rubber that gives compression plumbing a bad name. If you’re outfitting a laundry or utility sink with a 1-1/2 inch tailpiece, it’s equally at home there. For a bathroom with 1-1/4 inch fixtures, I’d reach for a dedicated smaller kit instead of adapting down across the board.

The absence of glue, primer, and specialized tools also keeps the cost of the overall job down. A small saw, a rag, and a bucket are about all you need.

Recommendation

I recommend the PetrelWing drain kit for DIYers and pros who want a dependable, modular 1-1/2 inch tubular solution for kitchen and utility sinks. It installs cleanly, seals reliably with hand-tight compression, and includes enough parts to handle single or double-bowl configurations without emergency runs to the plumbing aisle. Just make sure you have a proper trap adapter if you’re transitioning from Schedule 40 at the wall, and stick to a P-trap layout to stay on the right side of code. For those use cases, it’s a straightforward, budget-friendly way to rebuild under-sink plumbing that won’t leave a puddle behind.