wriboard Upgraded 30 Amp 6 Circuit Transfer Switch Kit for Generator with 2 Digital Display Energy Meter with NEMA L14-30p Optional Power Inlet, IP 67 Waterproof, PreWired, for Indoor and Outdoor Use

Why I picked this transfer switch

A week of storms knocked out my neighborhood’s power, and it reminded me that running extension cords around the house isn’t a plan—it’s a tripping hazard. I wanted a compact, budget‑friendly way to feed a few critical circuits from a portable generator without installing a full subpanel. The Wriboard 30A 6‑circuit transfer switch checked the right boxes on paper: 30‑amp capacity with a NEMA L14‑30 inlet, an outdoor‑rated steel enclosure, and—my favorite—dual digital energy meters that read volts, amps, watts, and watt‑hours on each leg. After installing it in my garage and running it through two simulated outages (and one real one), here’s how it holds up.

Build and enclosure

The enclosure is galvanized steel with a powder‑coat finish, rain hood style, and gasketed seams. It’s advertised as NEMA 3R/IP67, and while that combination is unusual, it is genuinely well‑sealed. I hosed it directly for a couple minutes as a practical test and didn’t find moisture inside afterward. The metal is thinner than an industrial panel—if you torque a knockout punch aggressively, you’ll want to support the panel wall—but it’s entirely serviceable for residential use. Expect some minor shipping scuffs; mine arrived with a small corner ding that didn’t affect door alignment.

The door latch is positive and the windowed section for the meters is a nice touch—you can check load at a glance without opening the cabinet. Hinges are basic but smooth, and the powder coat resisted scratches during routing and mounting.

Pre‑wiring, breakers, and what you actually get

This is a pre‑wired, manual, six‑circuit unit. Inside are six break‑before‑make toggle switches feeding six miniature breakers. The neutrals are bussed and unswitched; grounds are tied to a dedicated bar. The feeder lands on a four‑wire L14‑30 inlet (mine came with the matching inlet box), which simplifies the outside connection to the generator.

A few notable observations from my bench and field checks:
- The internal pigtails were tidy and strain‑relieved. Most conductors were 12 AWG THHN for branch runs and heavier gauge on the feeder; terminations were torqued adequately but I re‑checked every lug.
- The included miniature breakers were IEC style, C‑curve, not UL489 listed. For U.S. inspections, that can be a problem. I swapped mine to UL489 B‑curve breakers (15A and 20A, matched to my branch circuits) and passed inspection without fuss. Plan on this if you need a permit.
- Clearances are tight but workable. Labeling is sparse; I ended up re‑labeling each switch and breaker position to match the house circuits.

Installation experience

If you’ve installed service equipment before, the layout is straightforward. If you haven’t, hire an electrician—this is not a “plug it in and go” accessory. My workflow was:
1. Identify six target circuits in the main panel (fridge, sump pump, office, lighting, and two receptacle circuits).
2. Move those conductors into the transfer switch via EMT, leaving the original breakers in the main panel off. In this design, the breakers in the transfer switch provide the overcurrent protection while the toggles select utility vs generator.
3. Mount the outdoor L14‑30 inlet on the exterior wall and run a short conduit to the transfer switch.
4. Bonding/neutral: neutrals remain common; this unit does not switch neutral. With my bonded‑neutral generator, it behaved correctly and didn’t trip GFCIs, but your generator bonding scheme matters. Check your local code and generator manual.
5. Torque all lugs to spec, label circuits, and perform continuity checks before energizing.

Documentation was enough to confirm the schematic but light on step‑by‑step direction or startup procedures. The wiring diagram is small; I re‑printed it at 200% to read the legend clearly.

Using it during an outage

The manual toggles are stiff and confidence‑inspiring. They’re break‑before‑make; I verified with a meter that the utility and generator sources can’t be tied together accidentally. Startup sequence I follow:
- Switch the six circuits to OFF.
- Start the generator, warm it up, and verify stable voltage.
- Switch each circuit to GEN one by one, watching the meters to keep each leg balanced.
- To return to utility, go circuit by circuit back to LINE, then shut down the generator.

The dual meters are the star. Each displays V, A, W, and kWh per leg, with memory and reset. They’re shockingly useful for load management: I kept the legs within 1–2 amps of each other and avoided overloading the 30‑amp limit. Compared to my clamp meter, the current readings were within about 3% and voltage within 1 V at typical loads. The kWh tally was handy for tracking fuel use over a 6‑hour run.

Noise, heat, and performance: after five hours at 18–22 A per leg (fridge cycling, sump pump spikes, lights, networking gear), the interior warmed but stayed safe to touch. The hottest points were the breaker faces and toggle switch bodies, peaking around 48–50°C with an IR thermometer—warm but expected. No hot spots on lugs and no odor.

Limitations and caveats

• Code compliance out of the box: the installed breakers in my unit weren’t UL489 listed. If your jurisdiction requires listed breakers (most do), budget to replace them with UL‑listed units that match your circuit ratings and wire size.
• Documentation: schematic‑only. There’s no detailed commissioning checklist, and labeling is minimal. A novice DIYer could wire it incorrectly.
• Neutral handling: the neutral is unswitched. That’s standard for many residential transfer switches, but if your generator or local code mandates a switched neutral, this isn’t your panel.
• Enclosure thickness: fine for residential, but I wouldn’t mount it where it could get kicked or cart‑bumped without a guard.
• AFCI/GFCI considerations: if your home has AFCI/GFCI requirements on certain circuits, plan with your electrician. This panel’s integrated breakers are standard thermal‑magnetic, not AFCI/GFCI.

What I liked

• The meters. Real‑time amps and watts per leg make balancing loads painless and prevent “mystery trips.”
• Pre‑wired layout with an external L14‑30 inlet makes routing simple. Short conduit run, clean penetrations, and done.
• Weather protection is better than expected for the price. The gasketed door keeps spray out, and the window lets you monitor without opening.
• Break‑before‑make switching that feels mechanically sound. No ambiguity about source selection.

What could be better

• Include UL489 breakers for the U.S. market, with B‑curve options in 15/20A. That change alone would make it inspection‑friendly out of the box.
• A thicker back panel or welded standoffs would improve rigidity during conduit knockout and breaker swaps.
• Provide a full‑size, legible wiring diagram and a startup/shutdown checklist. It would save time and reduce errors.
• Ship with clearer circuit labels and a marker card.

Tips for a smoother install

• Plan your six circuits conservatively. Refrigerators and sump pumps can spike; leave headroom.
• Replace the breakers with UL‑listed units matched to your wire gauge and load. Torque to manufacturer specs.
• Verify all factory terminations. Re‑torque lugs and check for loose spades; upgrade to ring terminals where practical.
• Use the meters to balance legs; keep the difference within a couple amps if you can.
• Walk through a dry‑run: simulate an outage with the main breakers off before you ever plug in a generator.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners with a portable 120/240V generator up to 30A who want to power 4–6 critical circuits safely.
• Pros and experienced DIYers comfortable with service equipment, permits, and breaker swaps.
• Anyone who values integrated metering for smarter load management.

Who should look elsewhere:
- Those needing a UL‑listed, inspection‑ready solution without modifications.
- Installations requiring a switched neutral or advanced protections (AFCI/GFCI within the transfer switch).
- Users who want a turnkey, no‑tools setup.

Recommendation

I recommend the Wriboard 30A 6‑circuit transfer switch with clear caveats. As a hardware platform, it’s solid: the switching action is reliable, the enclosure is weather‑resistant, and the dual meters meaningfully improve safety and usability during an outage. If you’re willing to replace the stock breakers with UL‑listed ones and you (or your electrician) can navigate the lean documentation, it offers strong value and a clean, compact installation.

If you need a code‑clean, permit‑ready kit right out of the box or you’re not comfortable validating electrical gear, consider a higher‑priced, fully listed alternative. But for technically confident users prioritizing load visibility and weatherproofing on a budget, this unit performs well and, with a couple of sensible tweaks, becomes a dependable part of an emergency power plan.