KHGUZ 4 Pairs Car Strip Spade Terminal Fork Adapters, 4 Gauge Vehicle Crimp Barrier Spades Connectors, Automotive Speaker Wire Cable Terminal Plugs Accessories, Universal Fit

What this kit is and why I tried it

I keep a few sizes of lugs in my install bin, but 4‑gauge is the one that runs out first—most of my amplifier power runs, battery-to-breaker links, and high-current grounds live in that range. I picked up the KHGUZ spade/ring terminal kit to cover an amp rack build where I needed both fork-style “barrier” spades for an older amplifier and ring terminals for a breaker and bus bar. The promise here is straightforward: brass lugs with PVC boots, sized for 4‑gauge, in both ring and fork styles, color coded for polarity.

Over a weekend install and two follow-up tweaks, I used all eight pieces: four rings on battery/bus connections and four spades on a barrier-style strip. Here’s how they performed.

Build quality and materials

The terminals themselves are brass rather than the more common tin-plated copper. Brass is mechanically stiff and resists deformation, which is useful when you’re tightening onto studs or clamping under a screw head. It’s also reasonably corrosion resistant compared to bare copper, though not as ideal as tinned copper in marine environments.

The barrels are generously sized for true 4‑gauge cable. With oxygen-free copper 4 AWG, I got a snug fit that still allowed the strands to seat fully after a proper flare and twist. With bulkier, loosely bunched CCA “4‑gauge,” it was an even tighter push, but still doable with a clean cut and twist. Wall thickness feels adequate; I didn’t see any collapsing or cracking during crimping.

The included PVC boots are thick enough to hide an imperfect crimp and long enough to overlap the cable jacket. They’re not heat-shrink, so they don’t seal against moisture, but they do provide insulation and basic abrasion protection. Red/black color coding is consistent and helpful when you’re dressing a rack in low light.

Fit and compatibility

The ring lugs matched the common hardware I use on battery posts, breakers, and mini bus bars. The spade (fork) lugs worked with the barrier strip on an older amplifier that still prefers lugs under screw terminals rather than set-screw blocks. The tongues have enough meat to distribute clamping force without “cupping” under the screw head.

Dimensions-wise, each finished assembly is about two inches long once the boot is on. That matters in tight amp racks—plan your bend radius and strain relief accordingly. If you’re routing behind a false floor or stacking components, the extra length out of a device can dictate the direction you point the cable.

A quick note on wire size: these are purpose-built for 4‑gauge. They’re not a universal barrel that swallows multiple sizes. You can make 6 AWG work with a careful double-crimp and the right die, but for 1/0 or 2 AWG you’ll need larger hardware.

Installation experience

The install process was uneventful in the best way. My steps:

• Square cut and strip just enough insulation to fill the barrel (about the length of the crimp section).
• Flare and twist the strands so the bundle inserts cleanly without splaying.
• Use a hex-die hydraulic crimper and stage the crimp in two bites along the barrel, rotating slightly between presses for an even compression.
• Slide the PVC boot over the barrel and seat it onto the cable jacket.

I tried one lug with a hammer crimper too. It worked, but the result is less uniform and you’ll want to follow up with adhesive-lined heat shrink for strain relief (not included). With heavy-gauge lugs like these, a hydraulic crimper with the correct die is the move if you want consistency and maximum contact. I don’t tin the wire before crimping—proper mechanical compression is the goal, and solder can creep under heat and vibration in vehicles.

Once crimped, pull tests were solid. I couldn’t yank the cable out by hand, and the barrels showed no signs of splitting. The boots slide on easily and stay put, but you can also add a short length of 3:1 adhesive-lined heat shrink at the boot/cable interface if you expect moisture or underbody exposure.

Electrical performance

On a Class D sub amp that peaks well north of 80 amps, I measured negligible voltage drop across each lug using a DMM under load—on the order of one to a few millivolts, which is what I expect for a short brass interface with a good crimp. After sustained playback and a few minutes of charging current cycling, the lugs stayed cool to the touch. No signs of hot spots, even on the spade lugs under screw terminals.

The fork design is useful for barrier strips: it increases the contact area under the screw head and makes it easier to service without fully removing hardware. The ring lugs, predictably, excel where vibration is high—once the nut is torqued, they’re not going anywhere.

Durability and corrosion resistance

After two weeks in a daily driver with one battery connection near the engine bay, I see only mild surface tarnish on the exposed brass—nothing concerning. In general automotive use, brass holds up well, but if you’re in harsh winters or salty coastal air, I’d add dielectric grease under the screw head/nut and over the exposed metal, and consider sealing with heat shrink at the boot. For true marine service, tinned copper lugs with adhesive-lined heat shrink are a better long-term choice.

Mechanically, the lugs have not deformed under normal torque. Threads and screw heads didn’t bite into the tongues excessively, a good sign that the alloy and thickness are up to the task.

What I liked

• Solid crimping experience: Barrels accept true 4 AWG and hold shape under a proper crimp.
• Practical mix of connectors: Rings for studs and breakers; forks for barrier strips and quick service.
• Helpful boots: Thick PVC sleeves cover the crimp and provide clear polarity.
• Good current handling: Stayed cool at typical car-audio loads; minimal measured drop.
• Reasonable dimensions: Long enough barrel for a full-depth crimp without being unwieldy.

What could be better

• Not weather-sealed: PVC boots don’t replace adhesive-lined heat shrink if you’re in wet or salty environments.
• Brass vs. tinned copper tradeoff: Brass is strong and corrosion-resistant, but tinned copper lugs remain the standard for maximum conductivity and marine-grade installs.
• Single-size focus: Great for 4‑gauge, but no included reducers/adapters for 6 AWG or larger gauge options in the same kit.
• Clearance awareness: The roughly two-inch finished length can be a squeeze in ultra-tight amp racks.

Use cases that make sense

• Car audio power runs to amplifiers, distribution blocks, breakers, and grounds, especially when you need both ring and fork options.
• Restoring or integrating older amplifiers with barrier-strip connections.
• RV 12V accessory circuits and bus bar expansions where 4‑gauge is appropriate.
• Bench power setups and test rigs that benefit from quick fork-style serviceability.

Tips for best results

• Use a quality crimper (hex-die hydraulic preferred) and the correct die size for 4 AWG.
• Don’t pre-solder/tin the wire; rely on a proper mechanical crimp.
• Add adhesive-lined heat shrink at the boot for moisture-prone locations.
• Verify screw/stud size compatibility for your specific gear before final assembly.
• Plan cable routing to accommodate the finished length and bend radius.

The bottom line

The KHGUZ spade/ring terminal kit does what a good lug set should do: it takes a 4‑gauge cable, crimps cleanly, fits common mobile-audio hardware, and holds up under current without drama. The brass construction strikes a sensible balance of strength and corrosion resistance for automotive use, and the included PVC boots make for a tidy, color-coded finish. They aren’t marine-grade or weather-sealed, but that’s easy to address with a little heat shrink and grease where needed.

Recommendation: I’d recommend this kit for anyone outfitting a car or RV 12V system who needs reliable 4‑gauge terminations in both ring and fork styles. It’s especially handy if you’re mixing modern gear with older barrier-strip equipment. If your install lives in harsh, wet environments or demands marine-grade standards, look for tinned copper lugs with adhesive-lined heat shrink. Otherwise, for everyday automotive audio and power wiring, this kit is a dependable, straightforward choice.