GORILLA Max Strength Construction Adhesive, Clear Glue, 7 Ounce Squeeze Tube (Pack of 1) - Gap Filling and Waterproof

A clear adhesive that actually stays clear is rare in the construction aisle. This one does—and it sticks. I’ve been using Gorilla’s clear construction adhesive in the 7 oz squeeze tube for a mix of home fixes and shop projects, and it has quickly become the tube I reach for when I need a strong, weatherproof bond without the yellowing or cloudiness that can ruin a clean finish.

What it is

This is a thick, crystal-clear, solvent-free construction adhesive in a squeeze tube. It’s waterproof, rated for indoor and outdoor use, and paintable once cured. It also works as a gap-filling adhesive caulk, which extends its utility beyond simple bonding to light sealing and cosmetic fixes. Think of it as a non-foaming, modified polymer adhesive: high grab, flexible when cured, and less fussy than traditional two-part epoxies.

Bonding power and clarity

Strength first: on rigid materials—wood-to-wood, metal-to-wood, ceramic, brick, glass, and many plastics—the bond is impressively stout. I’ve used it to secure a loose metal floor register, reattach a wood trim piece where fasteners were impractical, and repair a cracked ceramic planter. In each case, once fully cured, I could flex the surrounding material before the adhesive budged. The finished bond has a slight give (not brittle like CA/super glue), which is exactly what you want for joints that see vibration, temperature changes, or minor expansion/contraction.

The “clear” claim holds up. On glass and finished wood, the bead dries genuinely transparent, not milky. It makes repairs far less conspicuous, and it’s a boon for decorative fixtures, glass shelves, and visible trim where hiding the glue line matters. Over-application squeezes out as a clear gel you can wipe away within a few minutes; any thin haze that remains all but disappears after cure.

What it sticks to (and what it doesn’t love)

This adhesive thrives on hard surfaces, especially smooth or non-porous ones: tile, glass, metals, painted trim, dense hardwoods, and many plastics like PVC and ABS. It’s also effective for porous materials, but you’ll get the best results by buttering both sides and pressing firmly to wet out the surface. It holds its shape on vertical applications, so I had no trouble running a clean bead along a door casing or a backsplash without slump.

Where it’s less ideal is very flexible elastomers—soft rubbers and bouncy balls, for example—where the substrate stretches more than the cured adhesive wants to. It also isn’t the right choice for structural load-bearing joints or for polyethylene/polypropylene without surface prep. For those, a specialty adhesive or mechanical fastener is the safer route.

Application experience

The 7 oz squeeze tube is more convenient than a caulk cartridge for small to medium projects. The body is soft enough to meter a steady bead, and the tip cuts cleanly. The adhesive itself is a high-viscosity gel—thicker than a typical construction adhesive—so it doesn’t run. That’s great for overhead work and tight seams, but it also means you need deliberate pressure to seat parts and expel air.

Grab is good but not instantaneous. Expect to support or clamp parts, especially heavier items, for 10–30 minutes, then leave the assembly undisturbed for a full day. In my tests, it reached a usable set overnight and continued to gain strength over several days. The working time is generous; you can reposition parts for a bit before it skins over, which is helpful for aligning trim or hardware.

One nuance: the included nozzle is more suited to medium beads than precision dots. For tiny, intricate repairs on miniatures or delicate ornaments, I found it hard to place micro-amounts neatly. You can decant a little onto a scrap and apply with a toothpick for finesse work, but this product really shines on bonds where a 1/8" to 1/4" bead is appropriate.

Gap filling and finish

As a gap-filling adhesive, it performs very well. It bridges small voids, fills undersized screw holes, and can even stand in as a clear caulk for light-duty sealing around fixtures. I’ve used it to fill small divots in softwood and to backfill a loose rubber foot on a walking cane; once cured, it sands acceptably and takes paint without issue. Because it cures flexible, it won’t crack out of joints with slight movement.

The cured surface is glossy-clear. If you plan to paint, a quick scuff with a fine abrasive improves adhesion; otherwise, it disappears behind most finishes.

Durability and weather resistance

This adhesive is built for both interior and exterior work. It’s waterproof and tolerates wet environments, including occasional immersion, which made it useful for fixing a loose tile edge near a shower and reattaching a small metal plaque on an exterior gate. It’s not a substitute for a dedicated marine adhesive in harsh, constantly submerged conditions, but for typical household wet areas it’s more than capable.

Temperature swings and UV didn’t cause clouding or yellowing in my outdoor tests over a few months. The cured bond remains slightly elastic, which helps it survive seasonal movement better than brittle glues.

Clean-up and odor

Cleanup is easy if you move quickly. Mineral spirits are unnecessary; a dry rag or paper towel takes care of fresh squeeze-out, and a follow-up with a damp cloth leaves surfaces tidy. Once it skins, removal is mechanical—peel or scrape. Odor is minimal compared to solvent-based construction adhesives, and ventilation is straightforward.

Packaging and storage

The tube design makes sense for intermittent use. Reseal the cap tightly and store upright; I’ve had opened tubes stay usable for months. The one nit: once the nozzle is opened, dried plugs can form if you don’t cap it carefully. I’ve had better luck purging a small dab to the tip before capping and storing it in a zipper bag to reduce moisture exposure.

Tips for best results

• Surface prep matters: clean, dry, and dust-free. Degrease metals and plastics.
• Size the bead to ensure squeeze-out along the seam; that tells you you’ve achieved wet-out.
• Clamp or brace for at least 20 minutes; heavier items may need longer.
• Allow 24 hours before load; peak strength generally takes several days.
• For tiny parts, apply with a secondary applicator instead of the tube tip.
• If painting, scuff lightly once cured for better adhesion.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and pros who need a clear, waterproof adhesive for visible joints and mixed materials.
• Anyone who wants one tube to handle both bonding and light gap-filling without mixing epoxy.
• Installers working on trim, fixtures, small flooring trouble spots, and repairs where fasteners aren’t desirable.

If your work is mostly micro-precision or on very flexible rubber, this won’t be your primary adhesive. And for large-format projects, a standard caulk-gun cartridge may be more economical.

Value

The 7 oz squeeze tube hits a sweet spot for repair work and small builds. You pay a bit more per ounce than bulk cartridges, but the convenience and low waste justify it if you’re not laying down yards of bead. Its versatility—clear finish, indoor/outdoor use, paintability—means you can replace a handful of niche tubes with this single product.

Recommendation

I recommend Gorilla’s clear construction adhesive for anyone who needs a strong, truly clear, waterproof bond across a wide range of materials, with the bonus of gap-filling and paintability. It’s easy to use, forgiving in application, and durable indoors and out. Just plan to brace pieces during set, give it a full day before loading, and reach for a different solution on very flexible rubber or ultra-precise miniature work. For most home and shop projects, this tube earns a permanent spot in the drawer.