E-cowlboy For Ford F250 F350 F450 F550 6.7L Diesel Fuel Filter Tank Supply Line Connector Repair Kit 2011-2022 Replace HC3Z9J338L

Why I reached for this kit

A broken quick-connect on the 6.7L Power Stroke’s fuel system is a small failure with big consequences: it can strand you or leave a stubborn drip that makes a mess and draws dust. I used this E-cowlboy repair kit to restore a damaged connector at the rear of the secondary fuel filter on a 2015 F-350, then later tried it at the fuel tank sending unit on a 2017 F-250. In both cases, the goal was the same—avoid replacing an entire hard line assembly just to fix a failed end. The kit’s promise is simple: splice into your existing hose and snap onto the filter or module with a new quick connector.

What’s in the box and how it’s built

The kit is straightforward: a molded 90-degree quick connector pre-attached to a short section of fuel-rated hose and a pair of pinch-style clamps to tie into your existing line. The connector body is ABS plastic with a yellow locking tab and a thumb-release. The plastics feel sturdy, with clean molding and no flashing around the latch. The hose is pliable enough to seat, but firm enough not to collapse under clamp load. Everything is black and low-profile.

I prefer quick-connects with a positive tactile “click,” and this one delivers. It also uses a secondary lock—the yellow tab—which you pull outward to unlock before pushing the thumb pad to release later. That’s nicer than basic one-step connectors because it resists accidental release when you’re working around the filter.

Fit and compatibility

• Platforms: Fits Ford F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 with the 6.7L diesel, model years 2011–2022.
• Locations: Works at the fuel tank sending unit, the HFCM (primary filter/fuel pump), and the rear port of the secondary fuel filter under the hood.
• Angle: The connector is a fixed 90-degree. If your original fitting is straight or 45 degrees, you’ll need enough slack to re-route the line to accommodate the bend. At the secondary filter I had room to arc the hose without kinking. At the tank, space was tighter and I had to clock the fitting carefully to avoid rubbing the shield.

If you don’t have the space to re-route, this is not the right fix; you’ll want a kit that matches your original connector angle.

Installation: what worked for me

I treated this as a splice-and-seat job with extra care to avoid leaks. Here’s the workflow that gave me a clean result:

1. Depressurize and prep

   • Key off. Place a catch pan. Clean the area thoroughly; dirt around a diesel fitting will find its way inside if you let it.
   • If you’re replacing a broken end, trim back to fresh hose with a dedicated hose cutter so the cut is clean and square.

2. Dry fit

   • Confirm the 90-degree connector clears surrounding components in its final orientation.
   • Check that your existing hose ID matches snugly over the kit’s hose barb/union. It should be a firm push, not loose.

3. Clamp choice

   • I skipped the included pinch clamps in favor of fuel-injection–style clamps (smooth inner band, non-perforated) in stainless. Worm gear clamps with perforations tend to bite and can create channels for seepage; EFI clamps distribute load evenly.
   • Size them so you’re mid-range on the screw, not at the end of travel.

4. Splice technique

   • Slide clamps onto the existing hose, then push the kit’s hose fully into the old line until it seats past the barb.
   • Position the clamp just behind the barb crest. If there’s room, I like to use two clamps, offset 180 degrees, each torqued evenly.
   • Tighten until firm; don’t crush the hose. You’re aiming for 360-degree compression without a bulge.

5. Quick-connect seating

   • Lube the male filter nipple with a dab of clean diesel. Push the new connector on until you feel and hear a click.
   • Tug test. Then slide the yellow lock outward to its locked position.

6. Prime and check

   • Cycle the key to prime the system several times without cranking. Wipe everything dry. Watch for weeping at the splice and the connector.
   • Start the engine and inspect again under idle and light throttle blips.

Both installs sealed on the first go using EFI clamps. I revisited them warm to confirm the clamp torque didn’t loosen as the hose relaxed.

On-truck performance

The connector end is the star here. Engagement is positive, the lock is intuitive, and later service is simple: pull the yellow tab outward to unlock, then press the thumb release. No special removal tools needed at the filter. Under idle and load, the connector held pressure without any smell or trace of diesel. After a week and again at a month, both locations remained dry.

The splice, of course, is where these repairs live or die. Using EFI clamps and a careful, square cut made all the difference. On the F-350 secondary filter, I used a single clamp and had no issues. At the tank sending unit on the F-250, I double-clamped due to a slightly aged OE hose and got a perfect seal. If you try to get by with generic perforated worm clamps or you over-torque, you’re inviting a slow weep.

Durability and serviceability

ABS and rubber won’t rust, which is an advantage in salted climates. The connector’s latch hasn’t shown any slop after multiple disconnects. I deliberately removed and reinstalled it several times during filter service; the click stayed crisp, and the yellow lock didn’t loosen up.

I’d consider this a serviceable, long-term repair if:
- The splice is made to undamaged, clean hose.
- Proper fuel-injection clamps are used and retorqued after the first heat cycle.
- The 90-degree routing avoids kinks and abrasion.

If your original hose is weathered, glazed, or shows cracking, replace the affected hose segment entirely rather than splicing into compromised material.

Where the kit falls short

• Single angle option: The fixed 90-degree limits applicability. Many OE lines use straight ends in cramped runs, and you may not have the slack to re-route. A multi-angle kit or separate options would help.
• Clamp quality: The included pinch clamps are a weak link. They can work in a pinch but aren’t as forgiving or sealing as EFI clamps, especially on aged hose. I wouldn’t use them unless I had no alternative.
• Packaging variability: On one kit, everything was present and cleanly bagged. On another, I found the hose slightly out-of-round from tight packing; a quick warm-up with a heat gun on low and a form mandrel fixed it. Consistent packing would avoid that.

Tips to avoid leaks

• Cut square and deburr lightly; ragged ends never seal as well.
• Clean the hose OD and the barb ID with alcohol before assembly.
• Use EFI clamps with a smooth inner band; position them behind the barb, not over it.
• Consider two clamps on older hose, 180 degrees apart.
• After the first heat cycle, recheck clamp torque.
• Route the 90-degree connector so the hose is neutral—no preloaded twist or bend at the splice.

Value and use cases

Replacing a full OE fuel line assembly on a Super Duty 6.7L can be expensive and time-consuming, especially at the tank where access is tight. This kit offers a practical alternative for a fraction of the cost and gets you back on the road quickly. It’s especially handy for:
- Field repairs or roadside fixes that you later decide to keep.
- Broken connectors from overzealous filter changes.
- Corroded or fatigued quick-connects at the HFCM or secondary filter.

If you’re running a fleet of 6.7L trucks, keeping one of these in the service box is a no-brainer.

Bottom line

The E-cowlboy repair kit does exactly what it should: replace a failed quick-connect on the 6.7L fuel system without buying an entire line assembly. The connector itself is well-executed—secure, easy to service, and resistant to corrosion. The success of the repair hinges on the splice, and that’s where your technique and clamp choice matter more than the kit contents. Skip the included pinch clamps and use proper EFI clamps; take your time on the cut and placement; and verify the 90-degree layout fits your application.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for owners and shops working on 2011–2022 6.7L Super Duty trucks who need a reliable, cost-effective connector repair and have room to accommodate a 90-degree fitting. With the right clamps and careful installation, it seals up cleanly and holds up in service. If your original connector is straight or space is too tight to re-route, or if your hose is degraded, look for a straight/angle-specific solution or plan on replacing more of the line.