YBEK G8 Halogen Light Bulbs 20W 120V Under Cabinet Lighting Replacements 2Pin 2700K Warm White

Why I tried these bulbs

I swapped these into a set of aging under-cabinet puck lights to see if a straightforward halogen refresh could breathe new life into the fixtures without converting to LED. The YBEK G8 bulbs promise exactly what halogen has always been good at: warm, accurate light, instant on, and smooth dimming. They’re 20W, rated for 120V mains, with a G8 bi‑pin base (8 mm spacing), a short 35 mm capsule, and a claimed 2700K color temperature with a CRI of 100. On paper, that’s the classic recipe for cozy task lighting.

Installation and fit

Installation was simple. With power off, I used a clean cotton cloth to avoid touching the glass and pushed the pins straight into the G8 sockets. The 35 mm length matters: some G8 capsules are closer to 45 mm and won’t fit every puck or sconce. The shorter 35 mm format fit my shallow housings without any interference.

Two practical fit notes from my experience:
- Verify pin spacing. G8 (8 mm) looks similar to G4 (4 mm) at a glance, but they’re not interchangeable. A quick check with a ruler or calipers can save a return.
- Check clearance in enclosed fixtures. Even though the bulb is shorter, some pucks and display lights have tight tolerances around the glass. If your fixture originally used a longer capsule, the shorter one usually still works, but aim the filament toward the reflector for best output.

Once seated, contacts felt secure and there was no flicker or intermittent contact.

Light quality and brightness

Light quality is where these bulbs shine. Halogen’s CRI of 100 renders wood tones, food, and printed materials with a natural richness LEDs still sometimes miss in this price range. The 2700K warmth gave my counters a pleasant, inviting look without veering orange. Because the bulb emits in a full 360° pattern, my puck reflectors did the shaping; the end result was even, shadow-minimized task lighting.

At roughly 190 lumens per bulb, a single capsule isn’t bright enough to be your only task light, but in multi‑puck runs the combined output is more than adequate for chopping, reading recipes, and accenting backsplashes. If you’re replacing older halogen or xenon capsules, expect a very similar brightness level.

Dimming and flicker

I tested the bulbs on a basic halogen‑rated wall dimmer and a more modern trailing-edge smart dimmer. Both worked without drama. There was smooth fade from full to low with no audible hum and no perceptible flicker, and low‑level stability was better than many retrofit LEDs I’ve used. If you have a dimmer designed explicitly for incandescent/halogen loads, these bulbs should feel right at home.

Heat and efficiency

They run hot—no surprise for halogen. After 30 minutes at full power, the puck housings were warm to the touch, and the glass capsule was untouchable. That’s normal, but it does mean:
- Don’t install near delicate materials or in fixtures that weren’t designed for halogen temperatures.
- Avoid touching the glass during install; oils can shorten life.
- Ensure the fixture has ventilation. Fully enclosed housings can accelerate wear.

On efficiency, there’s no getting around it: 20W for about 190 lumens is old‑school. If your priority is energy savings, equivalent LED G8s exist that consume a fraction of the power. That said, halogen’s perfect color rendering and native dimming are still compelling in certain tasks and display applications. For reference, at roughly 3 hours per day and an average electricity rate of ~$0.12/kWh, one bulb costs around $2.60 per year to run. In a six‑puck setup, you’ll feel that on your bill compared to LEDs.

Lifespan and reliability

These are rated for about 2,000 hours, which is typical for 120V halogen capsules. In my fixtures, I’ve been running a handful daily for several weeks with no early failures and consistent output. That said, halogen lifespan is sensitive to a few variables:
- Heat: tightly enclosed fixtures and poor airflow shorten life.
- Voltage: sustained high line voltage or spikes can burn filaments faster. If your home runs “hot” on voltage, lamps may not last as long.
- Handling: skin oils on the glass create hot spots; install with gloves or a clean cloth.
- Orientation: in some fixtures, keeping the filament horizontal can help longevity, though for small capsules it’s less critical.

A protective note: if your pucks are on an electronic transformer or dimmer not intended for 120V lamps, compatibility issues can show up as flicker or reduced life. These are designed for 110–130V mains, not 12V systems.

The 90‑day warranty is modest but welcome for a consumable. I’d expect these to meet or approach their rating under reasonable conditions, but if your application is particularly hot or sees long overnight runtimes, factor in the consumable nature of halogen.

Where they make sense—and where they don’t

These bulbs are well‑suited for:
- Under‑cabinet puck lights where color fidelity and smooth dimming matter.
- Display cases and accent lights that rely on a 360° emission pattern and clear optics.
- Small fixtures that specifically require 120V G8 capsules.
- Situations where you want halogen’s instant, flicker‑free behavior with no driver or transformer to worry about.

They’re less ideal if:
- You’re chasing energy savings or minimizing heat. LED wins there.
- Your fixture is shallow but relies on a longer capsule to center the filament in a reflector; you might lose a touch of focus with the shorter length.
- You need a cool white or daylight appearance; these are firmly warm white.

Practical buying tips

• Confirm base and voltage: G8 (8 mm pin spacing), 120V. Don’t mix with G4 or 12V systems.
• Measure your old capsule: if it’s 35 mm, these should fit most housings. If it’s 45 mm, the shorter bulb still often works, but check reflector alignment.
• Clean install: power off, use a cloth or gloves, and push straight in—don’t twist the pins.
• Consider dimmer compatibility: a halogen‑rated dimmer gives the best low‑level stability.
• Mind the heat: keep combustibles away, and don’t exceed fixture wattage ratings.

Value and quality

As a multi‑pack, the per‑bulb cost is attractive for a 120V G8 halogen. The capsules I received were clear and blemish‑free, with straight filaments and even end seals. Beam uniformity is excellent—there’s no encapsulated frosting here to diffuse, so the reflector does the work. The RoHS and CE markings are nice to see; there’s no mercury to worry about, and end‑of‑life disposal is simpler than with some other lamp types.

LED alternative considerations

If you love the warmth and color but want to cut energy use, an LED G8 is the logical next step. Just be mindful that:
- Many LED G8s are longer or wider than halogen and may not fit every puck.
- Dimming performance varies widely; check for compatibility with your dimmer.
- Color rendering can be good, but rarely matches halogen’s CRI 100 at the same price.

For my installations where the look and dimming feel were the priorities, I stayed with halogen; for always‑on accent lighting, I’d lean LED.

Bottom line

I’m impressed with the light quality, the easy fit in 35 mm‑friendly fixtures, and the trouble‑free dimming. They run hot and draw more power than modern LEDs—as any halogen does—but they deliver that classic, natural 2700K glow with flawless color and no driver quirks. If your fixtures are designed for 120V G8 capsules and you value color fidelity and smooth control over raw efficiency, these YBEK G8 bulbs do the job well.

Recommendation: I recommend them for anyone maintaining G8 halogen puck, under‑cabinet, or display fixtures who wants reliable, warm, accurate light and straightforward dimming. Just confirm the 35 mm length and G8 base, install with clean hands or gloves, and be realistic about heat and energy use. For energy‑critical setups, look to LED; for faithful, simple halogen performance, these are a solid choice.