FTIHTRY 14FT Fiberglass Running Electrical Wire Glow Rods Wire Pulling with 8 Different Attachments, Fish Rods Electrical Kit and Fish Tape Wire Puller

Why I reached for fiberglass rods instead of a steel tape

Running low-voltage and electrical lines through finished spaces often comes down to control: can you steer around a stud bay snag, tiptoe over insulation, and hook a pull string without the tool springing back at you? For those tasks, flexible fiberglass rods can beat a traditional steel fish tape. I’ve been using the FTIHTRY fiberglass fish rods on a mix of wall, attic, and ceiling pulls, and they’ve earned a spot in my kit—though with a few caveats.

What’s in the kit

The set includes ten fiberglass rods, each about 1.4 feet long with a 3/16-inch diameter, and eight screw-on attachments. That gives you up to 14 feet of reach when fully assembled, and you can tailor the length to the run by adding or removing sections. The attachments cover most of the usual scenarios: a brass hook, eyelet ring, rope chain leader, brass push tip, a magnetic tip, a threaded coupler, an acrylic leader, and a pull rod. Everything stores in a plastic tube with end caps.

The rods are a bright green, which is more helpful than it sounds when you’re peering into a dark stud bay trying to distinguish tool from cable. Fiberglass is naturally insulating, which adds a layer of safety, though I still treat all work as if circuits are live until I’ve verified otherwise.

Build and ergonomics

The rods feel reasonably rigid for their diameter, with a good balance between stiffness and bend. They’re not as stout as the premium, thicker-diameter sets pros use daily, but they hold a line through open stud bays and above drop ceilings without flopping. The low-friction surface slides well over wood and insulation. Threaded brass connectors let you daisy-chain sections and swap tips quickly.

There are trade-offs. At full 14-foot length, the assembly will sag under its own weight if you’re trying to bridge a horizontal span—physics is physics. You can compensate by supporting the midspan with a hand, or by pushing in shorter increments. I also noticed that if you torque the joints while twisting around an obstruction, sections can start to loosen. A quick wrap of electrical tape over each joint before a longer push virtually eliminated that.

Performance in common scenarios

• Inside-wall drop: I used the hook and eyelet to run a CAT6 from a new outlet to an open attic. Two or three sections were all I needed for the vertical drop. The hook made it easy to snag a pull string through a small cutout without needing to widen the hole. The rods tracked straight, and the bright color helped me see where the tip was relative to the cable bundle.

• Attic chase: Navigating across joists with loose fill requires just enough flex to ride over insulation without digging in. I used the rope chain leader as the first link; that short, weighted chain naturally finds a path over irregular surfaces and reduces the tendency of the tip to dive. Three or four sections at a time gave me good control. I fed a pull line back to the wall and completed the run on the second push—no wrestling with a coiled tape.

• Suspended ceiling pass: For a 12-foot span above a drop ceiling, I assembled nearly the full length with a brass push tip. The rods made the distance, but this is where sag showed up. A second set of hands halfway along the span made it a clean pass. Solo, I’d break it into two pushes.

• Retrievals and odd jobs: The magnetic tip is handy for lightweight retrievals—think screws or a small bracket that tumbled into a cavity. It’s not a high-strength magnet, so don’t expect to hoist heavy hardware, but it’s nice to have and extends your reach far beyond a telescoping pickup.

Attachments that matter

• Hook: My default for fishing in stud bays. It grabs pull strings and loops in Romex or cable jackets without tearing them up.

• Eyelet ring: Great for tying on a pull string with a clove hitch or tape wrap. It’s low-profile and slips past tight spots.

• Rope chain leader: Underrated. It helps the assembly find its way over obstacles and reduces snagging, especially in attics.

• Brass push tip: Simple and smooth. When you just need to poke a path, this is the one.

• Magnetic tip: Useful for small metal parts or steel fish tape hand-offs. Keep expectations modest on holding power.

• Acrylic leader: A bit more forgiving than brass if you need a slightly softer nose for delicate surfaces.

Swapping tips is quick, but always check that the connector is fully seated before a run. I make it a habit to snug by hand and then give each joint a tiny back-and-forth twist to confirm engagement.

Durability and maintenance

For light to moderate use, the rods have held up well. They’ve survived a few unintended bends and a couple of abrasive edges without splintering. That said, this is a 3/16-inch rod system; it isn’t built for brute-force pushes through crowded conduit or tight bends loaded with existing cable. If you lean into a stubborn obstruction and try to muscle it through, you risk cracking a rod or stressing a connector.

A few best practices to extend life:
- Assemble only the length you need. Shorter assemblies are stiffer and easier to steer.
- Keep sections as straight as possible during threading to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a wrap of electrical tape on the joints for longer or rougher runs.
- Wipe rods down after dusty work; grit can make joints feel gritty and accelerate wear.
- Don’t spin the assembly at high speed; a gentle twist is enough to steer the tip.

The storage tube is compact and keeps everything together. The friction-fit end caps are tight, which I prefer to avoid surprise spills. One minor nit: if you pack every rod in the tube, small attachments can migrate to the bottom, so I keep the most-used tips in a small pouch for quick access.

Where it shines, where it doesn’t

The FTIHTRY fiberglass fish rods are excellent for:
- Short to medium runs in walls, attics, and ceilings
- Situations that reward finesse over brute force
- Jobs where visibility matters and you want to spot the tool quickly
- Light retrievals with the magnet and precise hook work in tight cutouts

They’re less ideal for:
- Long, congested conduit pulls with tight sweeps
- Heavy pulls where you need to yank hard on a bundle
- Daily pro use where thicker, more rugged rods pay for themselves in durability

In those tougher cases, I pair these rods with a steel fish tape or a vacuum-line method to lay in a pull string, then use the rods for the final guided connection.

Value and alternatives

For the price point and the 18-piece completeness, this kit hits a sweet spot for homeowners, DIYers, and pros who want a secondary set for delicate work. Premium brands offer thicker diameters, more aggressive flex profiles, and even illuminated tips, but they come at a premium. If your work skews toward occasional runs and precise control in finished spaces, these rods make a lot of sense.

Tips for better results

• Use the rope chain or acrylic leader as your first contact in blind spaces.
• Add sections progressively rather than assembling the full length upfront.
• Hand off across ceilings with a second person if you notice midspan sag.
• Tie and tape your pull string to the eyelet to avoid snag points.
• Treat the rods as guides, not pry bars. If it feels like you’re forcing it, you probably are.

Bottom line

I recommend the FTIHTRY fiberglass fish rods for light to medium-duty wire pulling where control, visibility, and modular reach matter more than brute strength. They’ve made common residential runs faster and less frustrating for me, and the attachment set covers nearly every scenario I encounter. I wouldn’t choose them as my only solution for heavy, daily commercial pulls, but as an agile, versatile addition to the kit, they’re a smart buy.