DeWalt 1-1/2 in. 23GA Pin Nail, Chisel Point (2,000 PK)

I reach for 23-gauge headless pins whenever I’m doing delicate trim where a brad head would show or risk a split. This set of DeWalt 23-gauge pins has been in my shop rotation for a while now, and I put them through a mix of miter returns, small applied moldings, and cabinet work. In short: they drive cleanly, hold as expected for a true pin, and leave almost nothing to fill. There are a few quirks to know about, but most of them have more to do with pin-nailer tolerances and use case than the pins themselves.

What I used them for

• Attaching 3/8-in. and 1/2-in. decorative moldings to paint-grade MDF cabinet doors
• Tacking tiny miter returns on base cap and crown
• Securing screen bead and quarter-round ahead of glue set
• Holding face frames’ tiny trim details on maple and poplar while adhesive cured

For all of these, headless pins are the right choice. The holes are basically specks, and with paint-grade work they vanish without filler. On stain-grade work, I typically burnish the fibers with a card scraper or do a light pass with 220 and a sealing coat—again, nothing to fill.

Fit and compatibility

The strips are straight, uniform, and the adhesive that holds each strip together is thin and consistent—no gummy residue building up in the magazine. They drop cleanly into every 23-gauge pinner I tried. For me, that included DeWalt’s own 23-gauge pinner, a Grex, and a Milwaukee compact pinner. In one instance with the Milwaukee, a single strip felt slightly snug against the magazine rails; flipping the strip resolved it and everything fed smoothly afterward.

Practical advice:
- Confirm your nailer’s length range and whether it’s rated for headless pins (some tools call for micro-headed pins).
- If a strip feels tight, reverse it or try another strip before assuming a bad fit—manufacturing tolerances on both the tool and the fasteners can stack up.

Driving performance and depth consistency

Driven with the depth set correctly, these pins seat flush or just sub-surface without tearing fibers around the entry point. In poplar and MDF, I consistently got nearly invisible entries. In denser hardwoods like maple and white oak, they still went in cleanly, though I dialed in an extra touch of depth to avoid any proud tips.

Jam frequency was essentially a non-issue. I ran several hundred pins in mixed materials and encountered one hiccup that traced to a tiny burr on a magazine rail, not the pins. The strips stayed intact and fed predictably.

Splitting, deflection, and material behavior

The chisel point does what it’s supposed to do: it helps reduce splitting on fragile stock and thin moldings. I pushed it with 3/8-in. profiles, and as long as I respected grain direction and avoided driving too close to an edge, splitting was rare.

Deflection is always a consideration with 23-gauge. In end-grain hardwood or near knots, any pin can follow the path of least resistance and drift. I saw a couple of instances of predictable wander in oak end-grain; nothing unusual. If you’re shooting near an outside corner, consider backing up the corner with a block or angling your shot to keep the pin away from daylight.

Holding power: what to expect

These are true pins—headless—and they should be treated as such. Their job is to hold parts in place while glue cures or to tack on small, non-structural details. In MDF and poplar, the resin-coated finish provides a touch more bite than bright steel, but it’s still modest. I never rely on 23-gauge pins for structural hold. For tiny miter returns, screen bead, and delicate edge trims, they’re perfect. For anything heavier, I step up to 18-gauge brads or use clamps in combination with pins.

Surface quality and finish work

The finishing upside is the whole point of 23-gauge: almost no visible fastener. On paint-grade trim, a quick prime hides the entry entirely. On stain-grade, I found that the fibers compress slightly around the hole in softer species; scraping and sealing levels that out. In hard maple, entry scars were minimal to invisible with a clean, sharp tip from the nailer.

One tip: if you’re shooting into very brittle, prefinished moldings, consider slightly reducing air pressure or depth-of-drive to avoid micro-spalling on exit. Test on a cutoff first.

Interior-only finish and corrosion

These are coated pins intended for interior use. They’re not stainless, and they’re not galvanized in a way that would make sense for exterior exposure. Around kitchens and baths they’re fine; just don’t put them in areas likely to see persistent moisture. If you work in humid environments or with species prone to tannin staining (oak), test before committing—iron fasteners can react and darken the surrounding wood over time if moisture gets in.

Packaging, count, and value

The 2,000-count pack is a practical size for shop use and trim jobs. The case is sturdy enough to toss in a fastener tote without exploding into loose pins, and the strips hold together well even after some handling. Considering the consistency and how easy they are to source at many retailers, the price-to-performance ratio is solid. Specialty brands like Grex and Cadex also make excellent pins; these DeWalts hold their own and are easier to find on short notice.

Tips for the best results

• Pair with glue: Think of the pins as alignment and clamping helpers, not structural fasteners.
• Mind grain direction: Angle the tool so the chisel point is less likely to follow the grain out the side.
• Test depth: Different species and finishes want different depth-of-drive settings. A 10-second test saves a lot of sanding.
• Keep a flush-cut nipper handy: If a pin wanders or you need to remove one, a quality pair of flush cutters will extract it cleanly without chewing up the work.
• Check length compatibility: Make sure your pinner accepts the length you’re using and that it’s rated for headless pins.

Where they shine—and where they don’t

Shine:
- Tiny moldings, returns, and beading where you want minimal or no filler
- Cabinet trim and furniture details where clamps are awkward
- Paint-grade or careful stain-grade work where surface quality matters

Don’t:
- Exterior applications or wet areas
- Structural attachments or load-bearing joints
- Fastening through very hard exotics without a test pass; switch to a micro-headed fastener if you need more bite

The bottom line

These DeWalt 23-gauge pins deliver exactly what I expect from a quality headless fastener: clean entries, reliable feeding, minimal splitting, and an almost invisible footprint. They behave predictably across common shop species, play nicely with most 23-gauge pinners, and come in a sensible pack that’s easy to keep organized. The coated, interior-only finish is the right call for trim and cabinetry; just don’t treat them like brads and expect structural holding power, and don’t use them where corrosion could be a concern.

Recommendation: I recommend these pins for trim carpenters, cabinetmakers, and DIYers who need a dependable, readily available 23-gauge headless option for interior work. They’re consistent, easy to drive, and ideal for delicate applications where a brad would show or split the stock. Verify length compatibility with your pinner and stick to interior projects, and you’ll get the clean, low-visibility results 23-gauge pins are meant to provide.