Akona Pre-Mixed Concrete and Stucco Patch - Patching Material for Exterior and Interior Use, Repair Walls, Floors, Holes, Cracks, and More, Gray Paste, Ready to Use

A ready-to-use fix for small masonry headaches

Patch work is one of those jobs that can either eat up a weekend or be done before lunch. The Akona stucco patch lands firmly in the latter camp for minor repairs. Over a few projects—hairline foundation cracks, chipped stair edges, and a baseball-sized hole in stucco—I’ve put this pre-mixed gray paste through its paces on both interior and exterior surfaces. It’s not a miracle product, but used where it’s intended, it’s a solid, fuss-free solution.

What it is and where it shines

This is a cement-based, pre-mixed patch in a quart tub. The consistency is a dense, smooth paste that’s easy to move with a putty knife or small trowel. Because it’s pre-mixed, there’s no powder dust, no guessing at water ratios, and no mixing bucket to clean—just open, give it a quick stir, and start filling.

It’s designed for minor cracks, holes, and surface defects in concrete or masonry—think spalls on a slab, small voids in a block wall, or repairs on stucco around outlets and knock-around corners. It adheres on both vertical and horizontal surfaces, and it’s intended for both indoor and outdoor use. A quart covers roughly 3 square feet at 1/8-inch thickness, which is a good mental yardstick: it’s made for patches, not resurfacing entire walls.

Application experience

Prep is the make-or-break step. I vacuumed dust, brushed off loose material, and, for cracks, V-grooved the edges with a cold chisel so the patch had something to bite into. Damping the substrate (a quick mist until the surface is dull, not dripping) improved adhesion and reduced premature moisture loss.

The paste spreads predictably. On flat horizontal surfaces, filling shallow spalls is as simple as press, screed, and feather. On vertical applications, it needs a firmer hand. I had best results by:

• Working in thinner lifts (about 1/8 inch) and building up as needed.
• Pressing hard on the first pass to key it into the pores.
• Letting the first lift firm slightly before adding the next to control sag.

Matching stucco texture is always the artful part. While the patch trowels smooth easily, it also takes a texture well. A damp sponge float created a sandy, even finish on my exterior repair. For a rougher dash, a stiff brush or even dabbing with a gloved hand worked fine. The color is a medium gray; it blended acceptably on an unpainted foundation but stood out on lighter stucco until paint went on.

Cleanup is straightforward with water if you catch it before it sets. Once it cures, you’ll need a scraper. I don’t recommend “sanding” cementitious patches—if you need to fine-tune, do it as the material transitions from green to firm, when a damp sponge or steel trowel can still shape the surface.

Working and curing time

Open time is generous; I could work a patch for several minutes without it tearing or skinning prematurely, though hot, dry weather speeds things up. It firms up within a couple of hours enough to avoid damage from incidental contact, but plan on a full seven days for a complete cure before painting, per the label. I waited the week on my stucco repair, then top-coated with an exterior acrylic; the paint took evenly and the patch didn’t flash through.

Note that “fast drying” here refers to convenience compared with site-mixed mortars; it’s not a same-day paint solution. If you need a finish-ready patch under 24 hours, this isn’t the product.

Adhesion and durability

Adhesion was reliably strong when the substrate was clean and damp. On dirty, chalky, or sealed surfaces, it struggled—no surprise for a cement-based patch. If you’re dealing with old stucco that’s shedding sand, take the time to scrub and consolidate or you’ll be back redoing edges. On vertical surfaces, the material will slump if you overbuild; thin, compacted lifts are key.

Shrinkage was minimal on shallow fills. On deeper patches (approaching 3/8 inch), I noticed fine surface crazing when I rushed and applied too thick in one pass. That went away when I built up in layers and kept the substrate slightly damp. As with any rigid patch, cracking will recur if the underlying structure is moving; active joints still need an elastomeric solution.

Once cured, the patch is hard—closer to concrete than to a vinyl spackle. It survives abrasion, lawn equipment bumps, and weather without softening. I’ve been through a couple of freeze-thaw cycles on a foundation patch with no spalling or edge lift. As always, good prep and feathered transitions help longevity.

Coverage and efficiency

The published coverage—about 3 square feet at 1/8 inch per quart—tracked with my use. Filling a 10-by-10-inch, 1/4-inch-deep exterior hole and a handful of smaller cracks put a noticeable dent in a single quart. For anything larger than spot work, plan on stepping up in size. The paste’s density is a benefit: there’s enough aggregate and cement to build body without collapsing into voids, but it’s still smooth enough to finish cleanly.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Not for structural repairs. If rebar is exposed, concrete is delaminating, or chunks are loose, step up to a repair mortar rated for structural patching and consider a bonding agent.
• Not for moving cracks. Use an elastomeric or polyurethane sealant where movement is expected.
• Thickness matters. Keep lifts thin on vertical work and allow each to firm up. For deep voids, either build in multiple passes or backfill with a compatible aggregate first.
• Temperature and moisture. Avoid hot sun and windy conditions that flash-dry the surface; you’ll get better results in mild temperatures with a damp substrate.
• Color. The gray blends with concrete but will telegraph on light stucco and needs paint for a match.

Packaging and storage

My only real gripe is the container. One tub arrived with the lid partially popped, and some material had smeared under the rim. The product inside was still usable after a stir, but it’s a weak link. If you’re having it shipped, consider asking the seller to tape the lid or buy locally where you can check the seal. Once opened, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the remaining paste and reseal the lid tight; that minimized skinning between uses for me.

Tips for best results

• Undercut and widen cracks slightly to create a mechanical key.
• Clean and dampen the surface; avoid standing water.
• Compact the first lift firmly, then build in thin layers.
• Texture while the surface is still workable; don’t plan to sand later.
• Protect from direct sun and wind during early set.
• Wait the full cure (about seven days) before painting.

How it compares

Against tube-based stucco patches and vinyl spackles, the Akona patch feels more substantial and finishes more like true cement—better for exposed exterior spots and floor spalls. Versus mixing a bagged mortar, the advantage is speed and repeatability on small jobs, at the cost of higher price per square foot and a longer full cure than some rapid-set mortars. If I’m resurfacing a whole wall or doing deep structural patching, I’ll grab a specialty repair mortar. For day-to-day blemishes and typical homeowner repairs, this is the bucket I reach for.

Recommendation

I recommend the Akona stucco patch for small-to-midsize concrete and stucco repairs where convenience and a true cement-like finish matter. It adheres well when surfaces are prepped properly, it handles both vertical and horizontal work with sensible technique, and it finishes cleanly with textures that blend into existing stucco. The full seven-day cure before painting requires a bit of patience, and the packaging could be better. But as a ready-to-use, reliable patching paste for the kinds of fixes most of us tackle, it earns a spot on the shelf.