Taiss 600PCS Dupont Connector Kit - 2.54mm 1/2/3/4/5/6/7 Pin Housing Connector and Male/Female Crimp Pin, Jumper Wire Cable

Why I picked up this kit

I’m constantly wiring up little boards, sensors, and prototypes, and I kept running out of the exact jumper I needed. Pre-made leads are fine until you need a specific length, polarity, or multi-pin connector that actually matches your layout. That’s what pushed me to try the Taiss Dupont connector kit—a compact box with 2.54 mm housings from 1 to 7 pins, a healthy pile of male and female crimp pins, and a few strips of breakaway headers. It doesn’t include a crimper, and that’s important, but it does include just about everything else to build custom 0.1 inch jumper leads and board-to-wire harnesses.

What’s in the box

The kit is straightforward:

• 1–7 pin black plastic housings (more of the popular 1–2 pin sizes, fewer of the larger ones)
• Plenty of female crimp pins and a smaller batch of male crimp pins
• Ten 40‑pin single-row breakaway headers

Everything is the standard 2.54 mm pitch that fits Arduino headers, breadboards, and most hobby PCBs. The headers are typical tin-plated breakaways: they snap cleanly with a gentle twist and cut, and they solder down without drama.

My kit arrived in a thin plastic organizer with the small parts inside labeled baggies. It’s fine for storage, but not luxurious. I ended up moving the pins into small divided bins so I could grab what I needed without chasing bag seams.

Build quality and fit

For no-frills Dupont parts, these hold up well:

• The housings are consistent, with clean edges and reliable retention tabs. Pins click in and stay put if you crimp correctly.
• The crimp pins are typical open-barrel, tin-plated brass. They’re not soft or gummy, which helps; they bend predictably in a proper die and don’t shear easily. Like all Dupont pins, they will fold if you crush them in the wrong tool.
• Mated connectors fit standard 0.1 inch headers snugly, with sensible insertion/removal force. I didn’t notice loose fit or galling.

Using the 3-, 4-, and 5-pin housings to make keyed bundles for an I2C sensor and a stepper driver harness, the alignment across pins was good—no awkward offsets or pins sitting short. That’s important when you’re trying to land multiple conductors onto a single-row header in one go.

The crimping experience

This kit shines or sinks based on your crimping. There’s a learning curve if you’re new, and it’s worth respecting. You’ll want a proper open-barrel crimper (Engineer PA-09/PA-21, IWISS IWS-3220M, SN-28B, etc.) and stranded wire in the 22–28 AWG range. I had the best results with flexible 24–26 AWG silicone-insulated wire.

A few practical notes from my bench:

• Strip length: about 1.5–2.0 mm of conductor exposed. Too much and the conductor wings won’t wrap properly; too little and you’ll miss the strands.
• Two-stage crimp: the inner wings bite the conductor; the outer wings fold on the insulation for strain relief. Don’t flatten both sets at once unless your die is designed for it.
• Pull test: after crimping, give each lead a firm tug before inserting into a housing. If it slips, redo it—don’t hope the housing retention will compensate.
• Orientation: the tiny lance on the pin faces the latch window inside the housing; you’ll feel a “click” when it seats. If you have to force it, you’re probably backwards.
• Removal: a jeweler’s screwdriver or pin extractor will release the latch if you need to re-terminate.

Once you get into a rhythm, it’s fast. I batched ten leads at a time—strip, crimp, click—and built a tidy 4‑pin harness in a few minutes. Early on, I did mangle a couple of pins by over-squeezing; that’s more operator error than hardware quality.

Everyday use and reliability

I built several connectors for an Arduino-based datalogger: a 4‑pin I2C lead, a 3‑pin fan pigtail, and a 6‑pin ribbon for a logic analyzer. After a few weeks of plugging/unplugging during testing, the housings held up. No retention failures, no pins backing out. These are friction-fit connectors without locks, so I wouldn’t use them on vibrating machinery or in automotive environments without additional strain relief, but for benches, enclosures, and light-duty embedded work they’re ideal.

The included 40‑pin headers are a handy bonus. I snapped a couple into 8‑ and 10‑pin segments to populate prototype boards. They matched the housing pitch perfectly, no surprises.

Electrically, Dupont is not a high-current or high-reliability spec. I treat these as signal connectors or for low current (a few hundred milliamps per pin) and short runs. If you’re driving motors or anything noisy, keep the wires short and consider twisting pairs or stepping up to something more secure like JST-VH or KK-series.

Strengths

• Versatile assortment: With 1–7 pin housings, I rarely got stuck mid-project. Having multi-pin housings on hand makes cleaner harnesses that are harder to mis-plug.
• Reasonable consistency: Pins, housings, and headers all matched pitch and seated predictably.
• Value per connector: You can build dozens of cables before running low, especially on the female side which you’ll use most for board headers.

Weak spots

• No crimper included: Not a flaw per se, but it bears repeating—you need the right tool. Pliers or generic ratchets that aren’t made for open-barrel terminals will just frustrate you.
• Storage: The organizer is serviceable but flimsy. If you use this often, invest in a better parts box and label compartments by housing size and pin type.
• Learning curve: Expect a few mis-crimps early on. That’s normal; plan a small pile of extra pins as practice sacrificial lambs.

Tips for better results

• Use stranded wire, 24–26 AWG, with flexible insulation. Solid wire makes a brittle connection and fails the pull test more easily.
• Pre-tin only if you must, and sparingly. Solder stiffens the strands and can cause stress fractures. A proper gas-tight crimp is better than solder.
• For strain relief on single-pin jumpers, a small piece of heat shrink over the back of the housing and wire helps in field use.
• Color-code your leads and print tiny labels for multi-pin housings; it saves rework when everything is black plastic.
• If you need keyed or locking behavior, consider pairing a shrouded header on the board side; these housings are otherwise non-keyed and can be inserted flipped.

Who it’s for

• Hobbyists and prototypers who want custom-length jumpers and tidy multi-pin harnesses for development boards, sensors, and modules.
• Repairers who need to replace worn jumper ends or create adapter looms in a pinch.
• Educators outfitting labs with durable cables that can be remade after student abuse.

If you don’t own a compatible crimper or you only occasionally need a one-off jumper, pre-made leads might be more practical. But if you touch 0.1 inch headers weekly, a kit like this quickly pays for itself in time saved and cables that fit exactly right.

Final thoughts

The Taiss Dupont connector kit does what a good parts assortment should: it gets out of the way and lets you build the connectors you need, when you need them. The pieces are consistent, the assortment is sensible, and the extras (breakaway headers) are genuinely useful. It’s not glamorous; the organizer is basic, and the success you’ll have depends on using the right crimper and a bit of practice. But judged on the finished connectors I’ve put into service—clean crimps, solid retention, and accurate fit—it earns a spot on my bench.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for anyone doing regular 2.54 mm prototyping or light-duty electronics work who already owns, or is willing to buy, a proper open-barrel crimper. You’ll get reliable, custom cables without overpaying for pre-made assortments, and the variety of housings means you can keep projects tidy and mistake-resistant. If you’re tool-averse or need vibration-proof, locking connectors, look elsewhere; otherwise, this is a capable, cost-effective way to control your wiring.