Qiilu Automotive Screws and Clips, 100PCS Car U‑Clips Nuts 6/8/10/12 Assortment Interior Trim Fasteners with Stainless Steel Screws for Dash Door Panel Interior

Why this kit earned a spot in my garage

I keep a small shelf dedicated to the fasteners that save weekend projects: things like trim clips, speed nuts, and the odd stainless screw you wish you had five minutes before the parts store closes. The Qiilu clip and screw kit has joined that shelf and, after a few months of use on a car and a motorcycle, it’s proven to be one of those quietly indispensable assortments that keeps jobs moving.

What you get

This is a matched set of U‑clips (also called U‑nuts or speed nuts) and Phillips machine screws in the M3–M5 range. In my kit, the count came to 100 U‑clips and 100 stainless screws organized by size in a compact plastic box. The intent is simple: slide a U‑clip over sheet metal or a plastic panel edge, line up the holes, and drive the screw. That combination covers a surprising number of tasks—interior trim, under‑dash panels, door cards, bumper and radiator shrouds, license plates, and light brackets.

A few specifics stood out:

• U‑clips are made from 65 manganese spring steel, with a dark protective finish.
• Screws are 304 stainless steel, Phillips head, in lengths and diameters appropriate for M3, M4, and M5 applications.
• The assortment includes several clip sizes to accommodate different panel thicknesses and hole spacings.

It’s an old-school solution, but it works. And importantly, the screws and clips in each “pair” actually match, so you’re not hunting for thread compatibility mid‑repair.

Build quality and materials

The U‑clips have the right spring to them—firm enough to bite a panel edge without deforming, but not so stiff that you’re fighting them on every install. I’ve bent a few on purpose to test how much abuse they take and they spring back better than the cheaper carbon steel clips I’ve used in the past. The surface finish arrived even and clean, with no burrs that would scratch paint unnecessarily.

The 304 stainless screws are a great choice for automotive use. They thread smoothly into the clips and resist corrosion far better than the zinc‑plated hardware that ships with a lot of aftermarket parts. The Phillips heads are properly formed; I could lean on them with a #2 bit without cam‑out, though as always, using a well‑fitting driver matters.

One note on metallurgy: pairing stainless screws with spring steel clips is a practical combo, but if you’re in a coastal area or the fastener lives where water pools, keep an eye on the clips. The stainless will shrug off rust; the clip depends on its coating and environment.

Fit, sizes, and compatibility

Assortment kits live or die by their sizing. The spread here handled everything I tried:

• M3/M4 sizes for lightweight trim and gauge panel brackets
• M5 for door cards, fender liners, and radiator shrouds
• Clip jaws in multiple widths to bite thin interior plastics and thicker sheet metal lips

On a 2006 pickup, I replaced half a dozen mismatched screws on the radiator shroud and a sagging under‑dash panel. On a ’90s import, I fixed a missing license plate nut and re-secured a bumper trim strip that had been rattling for months. On a naked bike’s tail cowl, an M4 pair replaced a corroded JIS screw and a cracked clip. In each case, matching the original size was straightforward, and the kit’s clips slid onto painted edges without gouging.

The kit doesn’t try to be everything: there are no self‑tapping screws, no push‑in plastic rivets, and no Torx heads. If you’re working on German cars that favor Torx or on modern liners that use tree‑style fasteners, you’ll still want those on hand. But for metal‑to‑panel connections and many serviceable trim points, this box punches above its size.

Installation experience

Installation is about as simple as it gets:

1. Align the holes in the panel and bracket.
2. Slide a U‑clip over the edge until the threaded side lines up.
3. Start the screw by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
4. Snug with a driver—tight enough to compress, not so tight you crush the plastic or strip the clip.

Two small tips from use:
- A drop of light oil on the screw threads makes the first assembly even smoother, especially on the larger M5s.
- If you’re working blind (under a dash), a magnetic driver and a small pick help wrangle clips into position.

Everything I installed stayed put. No squeaks, no loosening after a few weeks of driving.

Durability and corrosion resistance

After a month of wet weather, the stainless screws still look new. The clips under the bumper cover show no rust yet; the ones inside the cabin will likely be fine for years. I scuffed a clip installing it on a tight sheet‑metal edge, and that’s where I’d expect the first signs of oxidation if it’s ever exposed to brine. For exterior locations that get blasted in winter, I’ll often hit the clip with a dab of anti‑corrosion spray or a touch of paint after installation. It’s cheap insurance.

Thread engagement remained crisp even after removing and reinstalling a screw several times. Cheaper clips can lose their bite quickly; these held threads without chewing them up.

Case and organization

The assortment comes in a compact compartmented box. It fits in a drawer and doesn’t take up much room in a trunk toolkit. My only gripe is the case hardware: the hinges and latch are on the flimsy side. It closes, but I wouldn’t trust it loose in a truck bed or bouncing around a work van without a rubber band or a tool roll pocket to keep it shut. Also, the compartments aren’t labeled by size. I added my own labels and a quick reference card after measuring; that sped up future jobs.

Limitations and things to know

• Limited to M3–M5 machine screws. If you need self‑tappers for plastic or thicker metal, you’ll need another kit.
• Only Phillips head screws. Torx heads are less prone to cam‑out if you’re working at awkward angles.
• The U‑clips are coated spring steel, not stainless. They’re strong, but protection is coating‑dependent in harsh environments.
• The case is serviceable but not shop‑rugged.

None of these are deal‑breakers, but they’re worth knowing so you can plan your hardware drawer accordingly.

Value

Buying trim hardware piecemeal at a dealer or a big box store is a good way to drain time and money. This kit gives you the common sizes most of us reach for, matched and ready, at a per‑fastener cost that makes sense. More importantly, it prevents the “project stalled for one clip” problem. I’ve already saved a couple of trips by having it on hand.

Who it’s for

• DIYers maintaining older cars with missing or fatigued trim hardware
• Motorcycle owners dealing with fairings and tail plastics
• Enthusiasts who frequently swap bumpers, grills, or interior panels
• Small shops that want a reliable catch‑all for U‑clip and screw replacements

If your work is mostly on modern vehicles that use push pins and specialty retainers, you’ll want a separate plastic clip assortment alongside this one.

Recommendation

I recommend the Qiilu clip and screw kit. It’s a practical, well‑matched assortment built from materials that make sense in the automotive world: springy, robust clips and corrosion‑resistant stainless screws. The sizes cover the common M3–M5 range, installation is painless, and everything I installed has stayed tight and rattle‑free. The only real downsides are the basic case and the lack of labeling, both easy to work around. For anyone who tinkers on cars or bikes, keeping this kit within reach turns minor fastener headaches into quick, clean fixes.