ELECTRAPICK Aluminum Flashing Roll,6in x 10ft Metal Roof Panels,32 Gauge (0.0078"/0.2mm) Aluminum Sheet Roll for Roofing Panels and DIY, Outdoor Gardens,Sealing Windows Doors, Stains Prevention

Why I reached for this flashing roll

I had a handful of small exterior jobs piling up—tightening up a leaky shed-to-wall junction, adding a drip cap over an old window, and creating a clean edge to keep mulch from spilling into a path. A full brake and a stack of heavier coil stock would have been overkill. That’s where the Electrapick flashing roll made sense: a compact 6-inch by 10-foot aluminum roll, thin and malleable enough to shape by hand, but sturdy enough to hold form once installed.

Build, material, and what that means in the field

This roll is made from ASTM B209 1060 aluminum at 32 gauge (0.0078 in / ~0.2 mm). 1060 is a commercially pure aluminum alloy—soft, highly workable, and naturally corrosion resistant. In practice, that translates into a material that:

• Bends cleanly with a hand seamer or even by hand over a straight edge.
• Holds a crease reliably when hemmed.
• Stands up well to moisture without rusting, provided you avoid galvanic and chemical incompatibilities.

At about eight-thousandths of an inch thick, this is a light-duty flashing. It’s not structural, and it’s thinner than what many building codes require for primary roof flashings like valleys or step flashing. If your job is code-triggering or high-exposure, check local requirements and consider heavier stock. For light repairs, drip caps, trim wrapping, and weatherproofing around doors and windows, this thickness strikes a very workable balance between formability and durability.

Handling and install experience

The roll arrived with a fairly tight coil set. Unrolling it had that familiar “memory” where it wants to curl back on itself. Reverse-rolling a few feet at a time helped, and clamping it under a straight 2x saved me from fighting it on the bench. Because it’s thin, it will take small creases if you ham-hand it—those can usually be finessed out with a hand seamer, but it’s better to avoid them. Gloves are a must; the cut edges are sharp.

Cutting is easy. Aviation snips are the right tool and give a clean edge. You can get away with heavy-duty shears for short cuts, but snips will save frustration. I liked how predictable the bending was: scoring a light line with a utility knife as a guide, then working the piece over a scrap of angle iron or a board edge gave precise bends. Hemming the exposed edge (folding over ~3/8 inch) adds stiffness and removes the “knife” edge—worth the extra minute.

Fastening options are flexible. I’ve used:

• Stainless or coated trim screws into wood framing (spaced ~6–8 inches on center).
• Roofing nails for quick tacking where concealed.
• Butyl flashing tape for overlaps and against masonry.

The material plays nicely with butyl tape; it compresses well without “telegraphing” lumps. Caulked seams with polyurethane or a high-quality exterior sealant stay neat because the aluminum doesn’t fight the sealant’s bead as much as stiffer stock can.

On the jobs: what worked and what didn’t

• Shed roof-to-wall cleanup: I formed a simple counter-flash over existing step flashing. The 6-inch width was just enough to cover the siding joint with a 3/4-inch bend into a saw kerf in trim. Lightweight aluminum was perfect here—easy to seat in the kerf and tap flush. I would not use this as primary step flashing; it’s for the cover piece, not the waterproofing backbone.

• Window drip cap: Classic use case. I bent a 1/2-inch hem for stiffness, a 15-degree angled drip edge, and a short kick-out. It tucks neatly under the siding course and sheds water. The thin stock forms tight against old, uneven trim better than thicker coil.

• Garden and shop: I lined the bottom edge of a gate rail that a determined chewer had targeted, and I used leftover strips as clean, rust-free edging around a planter. For dog-proofing, the trick is to hem edges and fasten frequently. This thickness isn’t chew-proof metal armor, but it’s a good deterrent when formed and fastened properly.

Where it pushed back: The coil memory can imprint faint flat spots if you force it. Plan bends close to the natural curve of the roll and pre-flatten gently with a hand seamer. Also, 6 inches feels narrow for some transitions—step flashing pieces are commonly 7x8 or 8x8. Measure your specific detail; you may need overlapping courses if you’re stretching this into wider coverage.

Weather resistance and compatibility

Aluminum’s corrosion resistance is the main advantage here, and 1060 alloy is reliable in exterior settings. A few practical notes:

• Fasteners: Use stainless or coated fasteners. Plain steel screws or nails will rust and stain, and they can set up galvanic issues.
• Pressure-treated lumber: Separate the aluminum from modern copper-based treated wood with a barrier (butyl tape or a compatible flashing tape). Direct contact in wet conditions can accelerate corrosion.
• Masonry and concrete: I’ve had the best results with a butyl or rubberized-asphalt tape behind the metal to isolate it and improve sealing.
• Copper and dissimilar metals: Avoid contact with copper flashings or copper gutters.

If you plan to paint, scuff-sand lightly and use a self-etching primer. The mill finish takes paint fine with that prep and resists peeling long-term.

Strength and durability expectations

Once formed and fastened, the flashing keeps its shape and shrugs off rain and snow. It’s not “denty” in normal use but will show a crease if something hard presses against it—typical for thin aluminum. For areas with wind-driven rain, lap joints generously (at least 2 inches, more if horizontal) and bed the laps in butyl tape. Hemmed edges and small return bends noticeably increase stiffness; use them whenever the profile allows.

Tools that help

• Aviation snips (right, left, and straight if you have them)
• Hand seamer or small sheet metal brake
• Butyl flashing tape
• Self-etching primer if painting
• A few spring clamps and a straight 2x for taming coil set

These aren’t strictly required, but they made my installs cleaner and faster.

Value and who it suits

A 6-inch by 10-foot roll is a smart size for small batches of tasks: two or three drip caps, a counter-flash, and some trim wrapping, with a bit left for odds and ends. If you’re doing a whole roof or a long run of Z-flashing, buy longer and thicker coil stock and break it to size. For homeowners and pros needing quick, corrosion-proof sheet for detail work, repair, or prototyping, this roll earns its keep.

One note on expectations: if you’re price-shopping for bulk material, local building supply houses often carry heavier coil and longer lengths at a better price per foot. This roll wins on convenience and usability for smaller jobs, not wholesale economics.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Thickness: At 0.0078 inches, it’s ideal for light-duty flashings, trims, and craft, but may not meet code for primary roof flashings in some jurisdictions.
• Width: 6 inches is versatile but occasionally tight; measure your detail before committing.
• Handling: Coil memory and thinness mean you need a light touch to avoid cosmetic creases.

None of these are flaws so much as the nature of the format and gauge. Knowing where it fits saves frustration.

Recommendation

I recommend the Electrapick flashing roll for light-duty exterior flashing, trim details, and small repairs where formability and corrosion resistance matter more than brute strength. It’s easy to cut, shape, and fasten, handles weather well when detailed correctly, and it’s a convenient size for common tasks like drip caps, counter-flashing, and trim wrapping. I would not choose it for primary roof flashings that must meet specific thickness requirements or for high-abuse areas without reinforcing folds and close fastening. Used within its wheelhouse, it’s a dependable, hassle-free material to keep on the shelf.