GORILLA Super Glue Tape, Multi-Purpose, Permanent, Double Sided, High Tack, 5/8in x 20ft, Clear

What this tape is—and isn’t

I’ve been testing Gorilla Super Glue Tape across a mix of home and shop tasks, and it’s quickly become a go-to for fast, clean bonds—within its lane. This is a thin, clear, double‑sided, pressure‑sensitive adhesive tape, 5/8 inch wide and 20 feet long per roll. It’s hand‑tearable, needs no clamp time, and avoids the squeeze‑out and fumes of liquid glues. Think of it as a high‑tack, permanent bonding film, not a direct substitute for cyanoacrylate in every situation.

It’s closer to a clear acrylic mounting film than to a foam mounting tape. There’s no thickness to fill gaps, no “give” to conform to rough textures. When you use it on smooth, clean surfaces and load it primarily in shear (parallel to the surface), it shines. Ask it to bridge a textured surface, carry a heavy load in peel (pulling straight off), or stick to very low‑energy plastics, and it’s more hit‑or‑miss.

Setup, handling, and application

The tape tears cleanly by hand and trims neatly with scissors. The adhesive is very sticky, so the trick is controlling it:

• Surface prep matters. I get noticeably better results after wiping both surfaces with 70–90% isopropyl alcohol and letting them dry. Dust, oils, and waxes kill adhesion.
• Apply in strips to maximize surface area. On small fixtures, I run two parallel strips with 1/8 inch between them, then burnish firmly with a plastic scraper or a roller for 10–15 seconds.
• Give it dwell time. While it “grabs” immediately, true bond strength increases over the first few hours. If it’s a critical bond, I avoid loading it for 12–24 hours.
• Keep your fingers off the adhesive. A pair of tweezers helps lift the liner and place small pieces.

The only handling frustration is the narrow width combined with the aggressive tack—it can feel fiddly for long, precise runs. For bigger pads, I stack strips edge‑to‑edge rather than trying to place a single long strip perfectly.

Performance on common materials

• Painted drywall: For light cable clips and small plastic wire channels, the tape holds well. For heavier items like a small power strip, it works if you use generous surface coverage and keep the load in shear. On removal, it will likely take paint with it. If paint damage is unacceptable, this isn’t the product to use.
• Glass and tile: Excellent results. The clear, thin film is nearly invisible on glass shelves and backsplashes. I’ve used it to mount a small glass accent panel to glazed tile; it grabbed fast and stayed put. Removal with a plastic scraper and a bit of heat left little residue.
• Metals (painted and bare): On painted steel and aluminum, the tape develops a strong bond, even in mildly warm conditions. I used it to attach a plastic trim piece to a powder‑coated cabinet; no creep after a week. Expect some paint lift if you ever remove it. On bare aluminum, adhesion is strong if you degrease first.
• Wood: Smooth, sealed wood adheres well. Raw, open‑grain wood is less reliable—adhesive can soak in, and you lose uniform contact. If the wood is unfinished, I switch to a foam tape or a liquid adhesive.
• Plastics: Works on many plastics (ABS, acrylic, polycarbonate). It’s less reliable on low‑surface‑energy plastics like polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP), and I’ve had mixed results on flexible, plasticized vinyl. On vinyl upholstery, it struggled to hold over time and left a gummy residue on removal—a classic interaction with plasticizers.

Indoor vs. outdoor use

Indoors, especially on smooth, non‑porous surfaces, the tape is dependable. Outdoors, performance is context‑dependent. On a painted metal surface protected from direct sun and heavy heat cycling, it held through wind‑driven rain without issue. In full sun or on surfaces that get hot and flex, bond strength can degrade faster. If you need long‑term exterior mounting, a UV‑resistant foam mounting tape or a mechanical fastener is the safer play.

Strength and loading: shear vs. peel

This is where expectations matter. “Super glue” in the name suggests tiny yet heroic bonds. In practice, this tape is strongest when the load is spread across a broad area and the force is parallel to the surface (shear). Try to peel something off at an edge, and you can defeat it with far less force.

Rules of thumb I follow:
- Use as much surface area as possible.
- Avoid hanging heavy items from one or two small tabs.
- For items that are pulled or flexed frequently (think door‑edge trim), consider a thicker foam tape or a liquid adhesive designed for that abuse.

Cleanup and removal

It’s marketed as permanent, and that’s a fair claim. On non‑porous surfaces like glass and glazed tile, removal is straightforward with a razor scraper or a plastic blade, followed by an adhesive remover. On painted drywall and some painted metals, expect paint lift. On flexible plastics and vinyl, you may encounter gummy residue.

Best removal practices:
- Warm the bond with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
- Pry slowly with a plastic scraper in a low angle.
- Roll residual adhesive off with your thumb or use a citrus adhesive remover. Test solvents on an inconspicuous spot first.

Compared to liquids and foam tapes

• Versus liquid super glue: This tape is cleaner, odorless, and immediate—great when precision placement and zero squeeze‑out matter. It doesn’t bond tiny parts or tight joints as rigidly as cyanoacrylate, and it won’t wick into cracks.
• Versus foam mounting tape: This tape is thinner and more “invisible,” ideal for glass‑to‑glass or glass‑to‑tile. Foam tape is better at bridging gaps and handling vibration or thermal cycling, and it often carries heavier loads in peel.

Where it excels

• Clear, thin bonds on glass, tile, metal, and sealed wood
• Quick mounting of small fixtures, trims, and cable management
• Craft and shop tasks where you want immediate placement without mess
• Temporary outdoor exposure on smooth, rigid surfaces (e.g., painted metal) when protected from direct sun and high heat

Where it struggles

• Textured, porous, or unfinished surfaces that reduce contact area
• Flexible vinyl and low‑energy plastics (PE, PP), especially over time
• Heavy items that load the bond in peel or experience frequent prying
• Applications where a clean removal from painted surfaces is mandatory

Tips to get the most from it

• Clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol; avoid household cleaners that leave residue.
• Apply at room temperature and burnish firmly to seat the adhesive.
• Use multiple strips to increase area and keep loads in shear.
• If you need gap filling or vibration damping, choose a foam mounting tape instead.

Value and format

At 5/8 inch wide and 20 feet long, one roll goes a long way for small fixtures and trim work, and a two‑pack covers a lot of projects. The clear film and thin profile make it more versatile in visible locations than many foam tapes. The trade‑off is that precision handling matters more, and it’s not the right answer for every plastic or outdoor job.

Recommendation

I recommend Gorilla Super Glue Tape for quick, permanent indoor bonds on smooth, non‑porous surfaces where a clean, thin, nearly invisible adhesive layer is an advantage. It’s a great alternative to liquid super glue when you want immediate tack with no mess or clamping, and it outperforms many budget double‑sided tapes in sheer strength and durability. Just go in with clear expectations: prep your surfaces, design the bond for shear, avoid problematic plastics and textured substrates, and assume removal will mark paint. If your use case checks those boxes, this tape earns a spot in the drawer. If you need heavy‑duty outdoor mounting, gap filling, or guaranteed clean release from paint, choose a foam mounting tape or a purpose‑built adhesive instead.