mankk 110PCS Copper Wire Lugs AWG 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Gauge Battery Terminal Connectors Battery Cable Ends Connectors Copper Ring Terminal Kit with Heat Shrink M-167-110PCS-tbz

A tidy electrical project often lives or dies by the small stuff, and this copper lug kit turned out to be one of those unsung helpers that keeps everything tight, clean, and repeatable. I used the mankk copper lug kit across a few tasks—reterminating 2 AWG battery leads on a truck, running 8 AWG to a small inverter, and cleaning up grounds in a utility trailer—and it covered the range without sending me digging through a bin of mismatched odds and ends.

What’s in the kit

You get 110 pieces in a compartmented plastic case: tinned copper ring lugs spanning roughly AWG 2 through 16 and a matching assortment of red and black polyolefin heat-shrink tubing. The selection accounts for common stud sizes—M6, M8, and some 3/8 in (M10) options—so most automotive, marine-accessory, and panel hardware are covered. Each compartment is separated by size, and the lugs themselves are stamped with gauge, which makes it hard to mix up pieces on the bench.

The headline for me is range. It’s rare to find a single kit that includes truly large-barrel lugs suitable for battery cable alongside the smaller sizes you’d use for signal and accessory power. This one does.

Build and materials

The lugs are tinned copper, which is what I want for most vehicle and low-voltage DC work where corrosion protection matters but I still want high conductivity. The tinning is even and doesn’t flake when you crimp. Barrel walls are thick enough to handle a proper hex or indent crimp without collapsing or cracking, even on the larger gauges.

The heat-shrink tubing is standard polyolefin, 2:1 shrink ratio. It’s not adhesive-lined, so it won’t provide a watertight seal in the way a marine-grade, glue-lined sleeve would. That said, for automotive, appliance, and general shop use where the connection is not submerged, it provides adequate insulation and strain relief.

Crimping and soldering in use

I tested the lugs with both crimping and soldering:

• For 2–8 AWG, I used a hydraulic hex crimper. The barrels crimped cleanly and held tight, with no strand spring-back. A second offset crimp on the longer barrels made for a rock-solid connection.
• For 10–16 AWG, a ratcheting crimper with the appropriate die profile worked as expected. The copper didn’t split or deform oddly.
• When I tinned and soldered a couple of 8 AWG grounds (after a light mechanical crimp), the solder flowed well and wetted the tinning without beading, which tells me the plating is clean and oxide-free out of the box.

Most lugs in the kit include a sight hole or an open barrel end you can see into, so it’s easy to confirm the wire is fully seated before committing to the crimp. After crimping, I slid the matching color heat-shrink over the joint and hit it with a heat gun; it shrank quickly and gripped both insulation and barrel.

Electrical performance

These are passive components, so performance comes down to contact integrity and corrosion resistance. On a 2 AWG battery-to-chassis ground I redid, the joint stayed cool to the touch under starter load—no hot spots, no measurable looseness after a week of daily driving and a couple of off-road jolts. Similarly, an 8 AWG inverter feed ran without any noticeable voltage drop attributable to the terminations. The tin plating should slow surface oxidation, which is important around battery compartments that see humidity and occasional acid vapor.

Organization and labeling

The case is simple but useful. Internal dividers keep parts where they belong, and the gauge markings on the lugs are legible. The red/black heat-shrink makes polarity identification straightforward when you’re dressing battery cables or bus connections. I do wish the lid had a contents chart with stud sizes and gauge conversions at a glance, especially because the kit blends metric (M6/M8/M10) with AWG, but that’s a minor gripe.

Where it shines

• Automotive battery leads, grounds, and accessory circuits
• Small marine and powersports projects above the waterline
• Inverters, winches, and trailer wiring
• Panel work and power distribution blocks where ring terminals are preferred

Having large and small sizes together is helpful when you’re building out a system that steps down from a battery to an inverter to a fuse block and then to individual loads. I never had to stop mid-project to source a different lug.

Limitations and considerations

• The included heat-shrink is not adhesive-lined. If you need a watertight, vibration-resistant seal in a bilge or engine bay with regular washdowns, upgrade to glue-lined tubing or a marine-grade lug with integral heat-shrink.
• The kit is general-purpose; it doesn’t include closed-barrel, heavy-wall lugs you’d choose for high-shock industrial applications. For winch leads above 200 A continuous or exposed off-road use, I’d still lean toward a heavier closed-barrel lug and adhesive-lined shrink.
• There’s no included spec sheet with exact ring inner diameters and barrel lengths. The assortment is practical, but pro shops may want that documentation for records.

Practical tips from the bench

• Strip cleanly and avoid nicking strands; full barrel fill matters more than brute force.
• Select the correct die size and orientation; an off-center crimp can split any lug.
• For larger gauges, a two-hit crimp on a long barrel yields better pull-out resistance.
• Use red heat-shrink on positive and black on ground to make tracing easier later.
• If you’re in a corrosive environment, add a dab of dielectric grease at assembly and upgrade the heat-shrink to adhesive-lined.

Value

Buying individual 2–8 AWG battery lugs in small packs gets pricey fast. This kit’s cost per piece is very favorable, especially given the inclusion of larger sizes that are typically the budget-busters. For hobbyists, DIYers, and mobile techs who want to keep a general-purpose stock on the shelf, the kit hits a sweet spot of breadth and price.

Durability over time

After a few weeks in service, the connections I made are holding torque and show no discoloration. The tin finish hasn’t dulled excessively, and the heat-shrink remains snug. I’ll still recheck high-current joints after the first heat cycles (good practice with any termination), but so far the kit passes the follow-up test.

Who it’s for

• DIY auto and RV enthusiasts needing a reliable assortment for battery and accessory wiring
• Technicians building small DC panels, inverters, and distribution blocks
• Makers and repair shops that want a one-box solution for ring terminals across common gauges

If you frequently work in harsh marine environments or need certified components for commercial installs, you’ll likely step up to marine-grade adhesive-lined options or lugs with specific listings. For everyone else, this kit is a very practical everyday carry.

Bottom line

The mankk copper lug kit does the basics right: conductive, well-tinned copper; a sensible spread of gauges and stud sizes; clean crimping behavior; and simple organization with matching heat-shrink. It doesn’t pretend to be a marine, glue-lined, closed-barrel solution, and that’s fine—its strength is being the right lug, ready in the right size, when you reach for it.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit. It’s a solid, cost-effective assortment for automotive, trailer, small marine, and general DC work. It delivers consistent crimp results, resists corrosion thanks to tin plating, and includes enough sizes to keep projects moving without a parts run. If you need fully waterproof, heavy-duty terminations, pair these with adhesive-lined heat-shrink or step up to marine-grade lugs; otherwise, this kit is a dependable staple for the bench or tool bag.