YEXEXINM 200 Pcs 16 Inch Insulation Support - 16" Carbon Steel Metal Insulated Wire for Attic, Ceiling Insulation, DGG005

I keep a box of insulation supports on hand because they’re the fastest way I know to keep batts from sagging overhead. This 200‑count pack of 16-inch supports from YEXEXINM has become my default for 16-inch on-center joists, thanks to their consistent length, stout spring, and straightforward installation.

What they are and how they’re built

These are straight 16-inch wire rods made from 2 mm (about 12–13 gauge) 1095 carbon steel with a black finish. The material choice matters. Spring steel earns its keep by flexing and pushing outward against wood joists, providing the friction that holds insulation in place. In use, these have a firm, predictable spring: bow them slightly, press them between joists, and they seat with authority without needing to over-flex or deform.

The finish is uniform and the rods arrive straight—not corkscrewed or wavy—which helps with speed. They don’t have chisel-cut or barbed ends. They’re just clean-cut, flat-ended wires. That’s a trade-off I’ll unpack below.

Setup and installation

I used these in an attic with 16-inch on-center joists (actual cavity width roughly 14.5 inches) and in a crawlspace where the spacing wandered from 14 3/8 to 14 7/8 because of older framing. For standard cavities, these supports are essentially plug-and-go:

• Lightly pre-bow the center with your thumbs.
• Start one end at a slight angle against the first joist.
• Compress and snap the other end into the opposite joist.
• Space them every 12–18 inches, and add extras near seams, pipes, and the ends of batts.

They provide enough outward pressure to hold kraft-faced and unfaced fiberglass without crushing it—provided you don’t over-bow them. If you press them in aggressively, you can compress the insulation and knock down the R-value, so aim for a snug hold, not a clamp.

With the flat ends, you don’t get the “bite” that a beveled end can give in hard, dry joists. In newer SPF or kiln-dried lumber, I didn’t miss it. In old, dense joists, it took a touch more wrist to seat the last 1/8 inch. If you want that bite, a quick 10-degree snip with diagonal cutters on the last 3–4 mm gives you a pseudo-chisel end. I did that for a handful around knotty joists and they popped in like you’d expect.

Performance in the field

Once installed, they do what good supports should do: disappear. After months overhead, the batts stayed flush to the subfloor and didn’t telegraph any sag. The spring steel has enough memory that if you pull one out to adjust a wire or pipe, it returns to shape and can be reused. I’ve bent some around small obstructions; a smooth curve holds tension fine, but a sharp kink will weaken the spring—no surprise there.

A few other notes from use:

• Cutting: They’re easy enough to cut with 8-inch diagonal cutters if you need shorter pieces for irregular bays or around junction boxes.
• Corrosion: The black finish offers basic protection, but these are carbon steel, not galvanized. In a dry attic, no concerns. In damp crawlspaces, I’d expect surface rust over time. If your install area is humid or subject to condensation, consider a galvanized option, or use these with vapor control and good ventilation.
• Visibility: The black finish makes them easier to spot against light-faced insulation while you’re cross-checking your spacing.

Fit matters: measure your joists

Despite the “16-inch” label, what matters is the cavity width, not the on-center spacing. For most 16-inch on-center layouts, 16-inch supports are correct because the spring compresses the extra half-inch or so. But framing isn’t always perfect. If your cavities are consistently wider than 14.75 inches, these will start to feel loose. If they’re tighter than 14.25 inches, you’ll need to compress them more and may end up over-tensioning and compressing the insulation. It’s worth measuring a few bays before you commit.

These are not a fit for 24-inch on-center framing; you’ll want 24-inch supports for those.

Build quality and consistency

Out of the box, the lengths were consistent, cuts were clean, and there weren’t burrs that snag gloves or tear facing. The 2 mm diameter is a sweet spot: stiff enough to span confidently, flexible enough to bow without fighting you. I didn’t encounter wavy rods or weak spots, which matters when you’re installing dozens at a time overhead.

The only build choice that may divide preferences is the flat end. Personally, I prefer a light bevel because it quickens the “click-in” on old, dry joists. That said, the flat ends are safer on hands and facing, and after the first dozen, the install rhythm felt just as fast.

Speed and ergonomics

The reason I reach for supports over strapping or staples is speed. With a helper feeding batts, I can secure a 16-foot bay in under two minutes—no compressor, no nailer, no wrestling with rolls of mesh. The spring tension holds the insulation while you make fine adjustments, and you can still pull a support and re-seat it without tearing the facing. Overhead work is still overhead work, but these reduce time on the ladder and the frustration of batts sagging mid-install.

Gloves help. The ends aren’t razor sharp, but you’re still working with steel rod around wood knots and splinters. I also recommend safety glasses—spring tension plus overhead work is a lousy time to get a wire in the eye.

Where they shine (and where they don’t)

They shine in:
- Attics and basement ceilings with 16-inch on-center wood joists
- Quick, clean installs where you need friction-fit support, not a permanent mechanical fastening
- Retrofits where you may need to remove and re-seat to route a cable or fix a bay

They’re not the right tool for:
- Metal joists or masonry surfaces
- Very humid environments without corrosion control
- 24-inch on-center framing (use the 24-inch supports instead)
- Holding rigid foam or dense boards; they’re designed for batts and rolls

Value

A 200-pack is generous. On most homes, that’s enough to handle an attic zone and a basement ceiling with some left over. Buying in bulk keeps the per-piece cost low and saves the “back to the store” run halfway through a bay. Because they’re reusable, extras don’t go to waste; I keep a handful in a pouch for service calls.

Tips for best results

• Measure cavity widths in a few locations before you start.
• Space supports every 12–18 inches; closer at seams and penetrations.
• Avoid over-compressing batts; snug is the goal.
• For old, hard joists, snip a slight bevel on the last few millimeters of the ends to speed seating.
• In humid areas, consider a galvanized alternative or plan for moisture management.
• Store the rods in their box or a length of conduit to prevent tangles and bent ends.

The bottom line

These 16-inch insulation supports are exactly what I want from this category: consistent, springy, and fast to install. The 1095 carbon steel gives reliable tension without fuss, the 2 mm diameter strikes a good stiffness balance, and the 200-count pack suits real-world projects. The flat ends slightly slow the first few installs in dense joists, but it’s a minor quibble with an easy workaround. My only true caution is environmental—carbon steel and moisture aren’t friends—so match the material to the space.

Recommendation: I recommend these for anyone insulating between wood joists on 16-inch centers, from DIYers tackling a weekend attic to pros who need a reliable consumable that won’t slow them down. They hold batts securely without crushing, install quickly without tools, and come in a quantity that keeps you moving. If you’re working in consistently wet environments or 24-inch framing, look for the right material or length. Otherwise, these are a solid, cost-effective staple for the insulation kit.