Middrivr 4 Set Black Anti Theft License Plate Screws Kits, Rustproof Stainless Steel Car Tag Plate Mounting Hardware, M6 (1/4") Tamper Proof Screws for Front Rear Frame Holder Mounting

Why I tried this kit

I’ve had my share of rattly plates and stripped screws, and I’ve also had a plate stolen once—annoying, expensive, and entirely preventable. I picked up the Middrivr license plate security kit to see if a straightforward hardware swap could solve both the nuisance and the risk. After installing it on two vehicles—one with plastic front bumper mounts and one with threaded metal rear mounts—here’s how it stacked up.

What’s in the box

The kit is refreshingly complete for a basic hardware upgrade:
- Four black stainless steel M6 screws (roughly 1/4" diameter, ~3/4" length / 20 mm)
- Two matching security drivers (a hex-bit style for a drill/driver and an L-key for glovebox backup)
- Four nylon inserts/anchors for plastic bumper holes
- Four washers
- Four foam shock pads
- Four low-profile decorative caps

It’s all packaged simply, and the included drivers mean you don’t need to dig for specialty bits before you start.

Installation experience

I did both plates in under 15 minutes, going slowly to test fit and alignment.

• Front plate on a plastic bumper: The included nylon anchors made this easy. I lightly tapped the anchors into the bumper holes, lined up the plate and frame, and ran the security screws in by hand through the washers. The security heads have a center pin, so they’re not compatible with a plain Torx or hex bit; the included driver engages cleanly. I snugged the screws just enough to compress the foam pads between the plate and bumper—tight enough to stop buzz, not so tight as to crush the pads or strip the anchors.

• Rear plate with metal threads: Here’s where fit matters. These screws are M6. Many vehicles do use M6 (often M6-1.0), but not all. My sedan’s rear threads accepted the screws perfectly; on another car I’ve worked on in the past, the rear mounts weren’t M6 and would have required different hardware. If your car’s rear receivers are not M6, you’ll need M5 or SAE equivalents instead—or a kit specifically matched to your vehicle.

Once installed, the plastic caps snapped over the heads to finish the look. They’re low profile and help keep grime out of the drive pattern. On one cap, I had to press harder than I’d like to get it to seat flush. A small dab of dish soap made the last cap click in without excessive force.

Fit and compatibility

This is the part you’ll want to double-check before buying:

• Size: These are M6 screws at ~20 mm length (about 3/4").
• Thread pitch: Most automotive M6 license plate mounts use a 1.0 mm pitch, but confirm on your vehicle. If the screw starts resisting early, don’t force it—check the pitch.
• Mount type: Plastic bumper holes without embedded threads work fine with the included nylon anchors. For vehicles with factory metal receivers, make sure those receivers are M6.
• Length: The 20 mm length is a good all-around choice and didn’t bottom out on the mounts I tried. If you have a thick plate frame plus a bracket, measure to ensure you won’t run short.

If you’re outfitting multiple vehicles, expect a mix: fronts often rely on plastic holes and will happily take the anchors; rears vary by manufacturer.

Security and durability

This is a tamper-resistant setup, not an impenetrable one—and that’s the right expectation. The unique drive with a center pin rules out common screwdrivers and basic Torx bits. It dramatically raises the effort required to remove your plate without the matching driver. Anyone with the exact bit set could still do it, but opportunistic theft is about ease and speed. This kit addresses both.

On durability, the black stainless steel hardware has held up well for me through wash cycles and late-summer storms. No orange bloom at the edges, no gray streaking from the caps, and no surface rust on the washers. Stainless-on-stainless can gall if over-torqued; to avoid that, I tightened by hand and skipped power tools for the final snug. If you live where roads are salted, a tiny dab of anti-seize on the threads is a smart precaution for any stainless fastener.

The foam pads work better than expected. They take the buzz out of thin frames and keep the plate from scuffing the paint behind it. On my test car, a lingering rattle disappeared immediately.

Design and finish

• Head shape and driver: The drive pattern engages positively and doesn’t cam-out under reasonable torque. The included drivers are adequate and fit well. I prefer the bit in a low-torque drill for speed, then the L-key for final snug.
• Black coating: The matte black is even and matches most black frames nicely. With the caps on, you see a clean, all-black face.
• Caps: They look tidy, keep dirt out of the drive, and help the anti-theft story by hiding the head. They can be stiff to install; aligning them squarely and pressing at the center helps.

What could be better

• Cap fit consistency: Three clicked in with firm pressure; one needed coaxing. Slightly softer plastic or a tad more tolerance would make them more forgiving.
• Clearer pitch labeling: The screws are M6, and most car mounts are M6-1.0, but explicit pitch labeling in the kit or on the bag would reduce guesswork. If you’re not certain, bring an existing screw to a parts counter or measure with a thread gauge.
• Alternate lengths: A second set of shorter screws in the package (say 16 mm) would broaden compatibility, especially for thin brackets where 20 mm can be overkill.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re worth noting if you like frictionless installs.

Tips for a clean install

• Test each screw by hand first. If it doesn’t spin in smoothly, stop and verify pitch.
• Use the foam pads between plate and body to prevent rattles and paint wear.
• Snug, don’t crank. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn is plenty for a plate.
• Keep one driver in the glovebox and the other at home. If you misplace both, you’ll make your own life difficult the next time you need to remove the plate.
• If you’re in a winter climate, consider a dot of anti-seize on the threads.

Who this kit suits best

• Drivers who park on the street or in public lots and want a simple theft deterrent.
• Anyone dealing with plate buzz from thin frames or uneven mounting surfaces.
• Owners who prefer a clean, blacked-out hardware look instead of shiny Phillips heads.

If your vehicle uses M6 rear threads or you’re mounting into plastic with the supplied anchors, this is a near drop-in upgrade. If your rear mounts aren’t M6, look for a security kit that matches your thread size or plan on swapping the receivers.

The bottom line

The Middrivr kit strikes a practical balance: simple install, notably better security than stock screws, and a tidy, corrosion-resistant finish. The complete bundle—drivers, anchors, pads, washers, and caps—means you’re not hunting for extra bits mid-job, and the foam pads earn their keep by eliminating rattles. The biggest caveat is fit: verify your vehicle uses M6 threads (especially at the rear) or be prepared to use the included anchors only on the front. The cap fit isn’t perfect, but once seated, they look clean and stay put.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for most drivers who want an affordable, low-effort way to deter plate theft and tidy up the look of their plates. It’s particularly good if your mounts are M6 or you’re installing into plastic using the included anchors. If your vehicle uses a different thread size at the rear, choose a version matched to your threads—or pair this with correctly sized security screws—so you get the same secure, rattle-free result on all corners.