E ENERSYSTEC AC Power Pigtail 2 Prong 18AWG, Replacement Cable 120V Wall Plug, 3ft Polarized Cord Black, Open End 10A, Flat Wire 1200W at 120VAC

Why I reached for this cord

A tower fan with a loose, heat-scored plug landed on my bench recently. Mechanically, the fan was fine. Electrically, it wasn’t safe to power. Rather than junk a perfectly good appliance, I grabbed the E Enersystec 2‑prong pigtail—a simple, 3‑foot polarized replacement cord with open leads and a tool‑less connector—and treated it like a small repair job. It turned out to be a straightforward, inexpensive fix that reminded me how useful a well-made pigtail can be for repairs and quick DIY power projects.

What it is

This is a flat, two-conductor, 18 AWG polarized cord rated for 10 A at 120 VAC (1200 W). The plug is molded with reinforced prongs; the cable uses stranded copper conductors for flexibility; and the open end ships with a no‑solder, no‑tape wiring connector. It’s meant for 120 V appliances that don’t require a ground—think fans, humidifiers, lamps, radios, and many small household devices that are double-insulated.

At 3 feet, it’s intentionally short, which is ideal for replacing a worn plug on an appliance where you don’t want a long, looping lead.

Build quality and design

• Plug and prongs: The molded plug feels solid, with a firm strain relief that resists kinking when bent sharply near the outlet. The prongs are stiff and stayed true after repeated insertions. They have a snug, not overly tight fit in a range of receptacles, which inspires confidence without feeling hard to seat.

• Cable: The flat, twin-lead 18 AWG jacket is supple enough to route through a narrow cord channel but not floppy. The copper is stranded, as it should be for a flexible appliance cord. Markings are clear, and polarization is easy to track: the ribbed conductor corresponds to neutral.

• Included connector: The kit’s small clamp-style connector is the selling point for many quick repairs. It’s tool‑free, holds copper securely when inserted to the proper depth, and makes for a fast, neat join if you don’t want to solder or crimp. It is, however, a bit bulky. Inside cramped housings it can feel like you’re playing Tetris.

Overall, the materials and molding quality punch above the price. Nothing about it feels bargain-bin.

Setup and wiring

My fan had a cord channel and a simple two‑post terminal block. I cut the damaged cord at the strain relief, stripped the appliance leads to match the pigtail’s strip length (about 8–9 mm worked well here), and used the included connector to join black (hot) to the fan’s hot lead and white (neutral/ribbed) to the neutral. A quick polarity check:

• Narrow blade = hot (black)
• Wide blade = neutral (white, ribbed conductor)

A couple of practical notes from the install:

• The connector grabs best with clean, squarely cut copper. If the strands mushroom, twist them tightly and trim.
• If the appliance has no internal strain relief, tie an underwriter’s knot inside the housing or add a clamp to keep tension off the electrical connection.
• In very tight enclosures, the included connector can be awkward. I swapped it for compact lever nuts once to gain a few millimeters and close a stubborn cover. Crimp butt splices are another tidy option if you have the tool.

From start to finish, the swap took under 15 minutes, including a visual inspection and continuity check for correct polarization.

Performance under load

With the fan drawing just over 1 A, the cord wasn’t challenged, but I also tested it on a resistive load around 8 A to see how it behaved closer to its rating. The results were as expected for a short 18 AWG lead:

• Heat: The plug and jacket ran only mildly warm after 30 minutes, consistent with a modest temperature rise typical for 18 AWG under this load.
• Voltage drop: Across the cord, drop was roughly a fraction of a volt (on the order of a few tenths at 8 A), which is negligible for most small appliances.
• Mechanical stability: The strain relief kept movement out of the connections, and the prongs didn’t loosen up after repeated insertions.

In short, it performs like a competent 10 A, 18 AWG polarized pigtail should.

Safety and limitations

This cord is purpose-built for 120 V, two‑wire, double‑insulated devices. A few guardrails:

• Current and power: Respect the 10 A/1200 W limit. Many space heaters draw 12.5 A (1500 W) and are a no-go for this cord.
• Grounding: There’s no ground conductor. Do not use on metal‑chassis appliances that require a safety ground.
• Environment: It’s for indoor, dry locations. Avoid wet or oily environments and avoid routing near hot components.
• Polarity: The neutral blade is wider; match the ribbed conductor to neutral. Reversed polarity defeats the safety benefit of a polarized plug.
• Strain relief: Ensure the cord can’t be yanked at the electrical join. A simple knot or clamp can be the difference between a lasting repair and a failure.

If you have compliance requirements (UL/ETL listings, for example), verify markings and documentation for your use case.

Where it shines

• Repairing fans, humidifiers, air purifiers, lamps, or radios with worn or chewed cords
• Powering small bench projects, relays, and smart-home modules inside proper enclosures
• Replacing cords on vintage or compact appliances where a flat, flexible twin-lead routes cleanly

The short length keeps installations tidy and reduces cord clutter near the appliance.

What I’d change

• Connector bulk: The included connector is helpful but chunky for tight housings. A lower-profile clamp or slim butt splices would suit more enclosures.
• Length options: Three feet fits many repairs, but offering 6–8 foot variants would cover more appliances without needing an extension cord.
• Wire gauge option: A 16 AWG version rated to 13 A would open it up to a wider range of loads (still within safe limits for many household devices).

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re worth knowing before you open the appliance.

Tips for a cleaner, safer install

• Mark polarity before you cut the old cord. A bit of tape on the neutral can save guesswork later.
• Use heat-shrink over splices, even with a clamp connector, to add abrasion resistance and tidy strain relief.
• Add a small cable tie inside the appliance as a backup to strain relief, if space allows.
• Before reassembling, perform a continuity test: neutral blade to neutral path in the appliance, hot blade to hot path, and confirm there’s no short between them.
• After assembly, run the appliance under typical load for 15–20 minutes and feel for warmth at the plug and splice area. Warm is fine; hot is not.

Value

It’s hard to argue with the economics. For the price of a couple coffees, you get a safe, tidy way to salvage or upgrade a small appliance without soldering. The molded plug quality and flexible copper conductors are better than many bargain cords I’ve encountered, and the connector reduces the barrier to a proper repair for people without crimp tools.

The bottom line

The E Enersystec pigtail is exactly what a two‑wire replacement cord should be: simple, safe within its rating, and easy to install. The materials are solid, the polarization is unambiguous, and the included connector makes quick work of many repairs. It’s not a universal fix—anything that needs a ground or draws more than 10 A is out—but within its lane, it’s dependable.

Recommendation: I recommend this cord for repairing or powering 120 V, double‑insulated devices up to 10 A where a short, polarized lead makes sense. It’s a cost‑effective way to extend the life of fans, humidifiers, small electronics, and DIY enclosures. If you need a longer lead, a ground conductor, or support for 1500 W heaters, look for a 3‑prong or heavier‑gauge alternative. For everything else in the two‑wire world, this is a smart, low‑friction choice.