Allmake Inside Pipe Cutter for PVC Pipe with 5 Replacement Saw Blades, 1/4 Inch Hex Shank Impact Connect Inside PVC Pipe Cutter for Drill and Impact Driver, Internal Plastic Pipe Cutter Plumbing Tools

What it is and why I reached for it

Inside cutters are one of those niche plumbing helpers you don’t think about until you absolutely need one. I reached for the Allmake inside pipe cutter when I had to remove a glued 2-inch shower drain and later shave a toilet flange flush with the subfloor without tearing up tile. A hacksaw blade or oscillating tool can work in a pinch, but nothing matches the control and reach of a purpose-built internal cutter. This one attaches to any 1/4-inch hex drill or impact driver and ships with a stack of replacement blades, so I was curious if it could become the go-to in my plumbing kit.

Build quality and design

The shaft is 40CrMo alloy steel with a nickel-plated finish. In hand, it feels solid—no burrs, no soft edges—and the plating has held up well to wet, glue-laden PVC debris and the occasional wipe with solvent. The 1/4-inch hex shank seats snugly in both my compact drill and my impact driver. There’s minimal runout at the shank, so the wobble you feel during cutting is more about technique and blade bite than the tool itself.

The business end uses high-speed steel blades with a corrosion-resistant coating. You get multiple replacement blades in two diameters (32 mm and 44 mm). The smaller blade is useful for tighter fittings and bathtub shoes; the larger one clears material quickly in standard 2-inch drains and around toilet flanges. Blades mount with a single fastening screw onto the offset head. There’s enough adjustability to fine-tune how aggressively the edge meets the pipe wall.

Setup and blade options

Swapping blades is quick, but it’s worth taking an extra minute to think about rotation and screw tightening. Mount the blade so that the cutting direction you’ll use tends to tighten the screw rather than loosen it. With most drills set forward (clockwise), that means positioning the blade so the rotation drags the screw head toward “tight.” A tiny dab of medium-strength threadlocker on the screw threads gives added peace of mind, especially if you’re working over an open stack and really don’t want to go fishing.

Between the 32 mm and 44 mm blades, I used the larger one most. It reaches the inner wall of 2-inch PVC easily and rides along it with a predictable cut path. The 32 mm blade is helpful when I’m dealing with smaller diameter fittings or need to sneak through a narrower opening before the head can rotate freely.

Cutting performance

I tested the cutter on PVC and CPVC in a few real-world situations:

• Removing a solvent-welded 2-inch shower drain body
• Trimming a closet flange level with tile
• Flushing a short stub of CPVC from a tight cabinet

On each, the cutter performed quickly once the cut was established. In straight PVC, the larger blade chews through material in seconds. CPVC, being a bit harder, requires a lighter touch and slightly lower speed but still cuts cleanly. The resulting edge is surprisingly flat and consistent—better than what I typically get with a reciprocating saw from above, and comparable to a careful pass with an oscillating tool, minus the risk to surrounding tile.

I had the smoothest experience using a variable-speed drill rather than an impact driver. Impacts will work, but the micro-hammering can encourage the blade to walk at the start. A drill’s steady torque and low RPM control make it easier to “set” the blade in one spot and gradually increase speed.

Control and accuracy

The learning curve with any inside cutter is the start. The blade wants to skate or grab if you plunge too fast. What worked best for me:

• Start slow with minimal pressure, bracing the tool with two hands.
• Tilt the blade slightly to score the plastic in a single point of contact.
• Once a shallow groove forms, bring the tool to perpendicular and increase RPM.

After that first groove is in, the blade tracks well along the wall of the pipe or fitting. The offset design helps you see and feel where the edge is cutting, and it keeps the tool body off the surrounding surface—helpful when you’re tight to finished tile.

One small caution: because the blade rides inside the pipe, you’re working blind at times. Marking a depth line on the shaft with tape helps you stay flush with the surface you’re protecting (subfloor or finished floor). A shop vacuum parked next to the work keeps stringy shavings from clogging the cut and improves visibility.

Durability and blade life

The HSS blades held an edge through multiple cuts in PVC without noticeable slowdown. They don’t chip easily, and the corrosion-resistant finish seems to keep glue residue from welding on too aggressively. If you do gum up the blade with cement or old caulk, a quick soak and brush restores it.

The nickel-plated shaft wipes clean and hasn’t shown rust, even after a few wet jobs and imperfect drying. The blade screw is the one vulnerability; treat it like a consumable fastener. Tighten firmly with the correct driver, use threadlocker if you can, and stuff a rag several inches into the pipe below the work to catch anything that slips.

Compatibility and limitations

• Drivers: Any drill with a 1/4-inch hex chuck works. It also runs on an impact driver, but I prefer a drill for control.
• Materials: It excels on PVC and CPVC and handled PE and PP-R test pieces fine. I didn’t need it for PEX in the field—there are better ways to deal with flexible tubing—but the blade will cut it if you’re trimming a fitting stub.
• Not for metal: This is a plastic pipe tool. Don’t expect it to eat cast iron or steel.
• Access: As with all inside cutters, your practical depth is limited by the shaft and the footprint of the head spinning in the opening. It reaches typical shower drains and flanges without drama; deeper cuts inside long sockets can be awkward.

Tips for best results

• Use a drill, low speed to start, and ramp up once seated.
• Choose the smallest blade that gets the job done; it grabs less on startup.
• Orient the blade so normal rotation tightens the screw.
• Add a dab of medium threadlocker to the blade screw.
• Pack a rag down the pipe as a safety net for screws and chips.
• Vacuum continuously to keep the cut clean and cool.
• Score first, then commit. A shallow groove makes all the difference.

Value and who it’s for

For plumbers, remodelers, and serious DIYers, an inside cutter earns its keep the second you have to remove a glued fitting under finished tile or inside a vanity. Compared with the generic versions I’ve used, this one cuts faster and leaves a cleaner finish, and the build quality inspires more confidence. The included stash of blades is meaningful—these cutters get used in dirty, adhesive-heavy conditions, and having fresh edges ready saves time on site.

If you only occasionally work with plastic drains and flanges, it still makes sense to keep one on hand. You’ll spend less time improvising with a reciprocating saw in a hole and more time doing the job right.

The bottom line

The Allmake inside pipe cutter is a well-built, fast-cutting solution for trimming and removing plastic fittings from the inside without risking the surrounding surface. Its nickel-plated steel shaft feels durable, the HSS blades stay sharp, and the two blade sizes cover most household drain scenarios. Control on startup requires a bit of practice, and you must be mindful about the blade screw—orient it to self-tighten and secure it properly. Once seated, the cutter tracks predictably and produces clean, flush cuts that make subsequent fitting work easier.

Recommendation: I recommend this tool. It’s reliable, cuts quickly and cleanly, fits common drills and impacts, and the included blades add real value. If you’re a plumber, a maintenance tech, or a DIYer who tackles bathroom work, it’s a small investment that prevents big headaches and delivers professional results in tight spaces.