Edward Tools 13” Steel Mud Pan - Sheared edges for easy knife cleaning - Perfect size for larger knives - Rust proof design - Heavy duty but still lightweight - Drywall mud pan - Lifetime warranty

First impressions and setup

I put the Edward Tools mud pan to work over two long weekends—one spent taping new drywall in a home office, the other devoted to patching ceiling seams and feathering out repairs. Right away, the 13-inch length felt like the right call. A 12-inch knife slots in with a bit of clearance, which makes loading and cleaning the blade simple. The pan is galvanized steel with sheared edges, and it’s light enough to hold comfortably in one hand for hours without fatigue. Out of the box, the only annoyance was the label adhesive; it took a few minutes with a citrus remover to get the last of the residue off.

Build quality and materials

This is a straightforward, no-frills steel pan. The body is galvanized for rust resistance, and the seams are folded and sealed. The material gauge is on the lighter side, which keeps weight down but also means there’s a bit of flex if you squeeze the sides. That didn’t cause problems in use, but it’s not as rigid as a heavy stainless pan. The end caps are secured with spot welds and folds; mine were aligned and tight. I gave it a few firm squeezes and a couple of light (accidental) knocks off a ladder shelf without any seam movement or leakage. If you routinely drop your pan off scaffolding or toss it into a crowded gang box, stainless will outlast galvanized, but for typical site and home use, this pan’s construction is serviceable.

Ergonomics in the hand

The balance is good. With a half-load of all-purpose mud, I could work a 10- or 12-inch knife in my dominant hand and keep the pan steady in the other. The sidewalls have just enough height to prevent slop-over when you’re thinning compound or scooping aggressively, yet they’re low enough that a 6- to 8-inch knife can still reach the corners to get every bit of mud. There’s no rubber grip or comfort feature—it’s bare steel. In cooler temps, the metal can feel cold and a bit slick, so I appreciated wearing thin nitrile gloves for grip and cleanup.

Sheared edges: the good and the caution

The sheared edges are the star feature. They scrape knives clean with a single pass and leave a crisp, even load on the blade. That edge also makes it easy to square off the mud in the pan and keep the surface smooth, which reduces air pockets in your coat and helps with consistent feathering. The tradeoff is sharpness. The lips are not aggressively de-burred, and the rim can catch a fingertip if you’re in a hurry. I took five minutes with a fine file and a piece of 400-grit sandpaper to knock down a couple of tiny burrs along the long sides. That left the scraping action intact but made the rim friendlier. If you don’t want to touch the metal, a strip of painter’s tape along the outside edge is a quick buffer.

Capacity and workflow

Capacity feels just right for small to medium runs. I could load enough compound to run a full wall seam with a 12-inch knife without returning to the bucket, yet the pan never felt unwieldy. For taping and first coat I typically carry slightly stiffer mud; the pan didn’t bow under pressure when I pushed the knife down against the rim to clean it. For topping coats, when the mud is thinner, the leak-proof claim held up—no drips out of the seams even when I thinned compound in the pan. I wouldn’t mix a full pan of thinned mud with a paddle in it (that’s better done in a bucket), but for on-the-fly tweaks with a bit of water and a 3-inch knife, it worked fine.

Durability and maintenance

After several cycles of use, wash, and dry, I saw no rust bloom and no seam creep. That’s exactly what I expect from galvanized steel if you treat it properly: don’t soak it, don’t use harsh cleaners, and dry it promptly. Galvanization resists rust, but deep scratches can expose base metal. Avoid metal scouring pads and keep your knives reasonably nick-free so you’re not gouging the rim. If you ever do chip the zinc coating, a dab of cold galvanizing spray on the exterior (not where mud contacts) helps keep corrosion at bay.

The seams themselves are folded cleanly inside and out. I checked them under a bright light after washing; they stayed tight and mud-free with normal rinsing. Long term, a stainless pan will win on absolute durability, but you’ll pay for it. This one hits a practical middle ground if you want something light, rust resistant, and inexpensive to maintain.

Cleaning and day-to-day use

Cleaning is quick. The sheared edge helps squeegee the last of the mud back into the pan before rinsing, so you aren’t wasting compound. A quick rinse with warm water and a nylon brush took care of the corners; the internal corners are square enough that no big clumps accumulate. I like to towel-dry steel pans immediately—two passes with a shop towel and it’s ready for the next coat. The flat bottoms stack well in a tote without eating space, though I’d avoid stacking other tools inside to protect the rim.

Compared with plastic pans and hawks

Compared to a plastic mud pan, this steel pan scrapes cleaner and stays flatter under knife pressure, which shows up as fewer ridges and less rework. Plastic is lighter and the rims are safer, but they flex and the lips wear down quickly. Versus a hawk, a pan like this keeps the mud covered and contained—great for working overhead and in tight rooms. Hawks are faster for broad walls if you have the technique down, but they drop more mud when you’re moving ladders or working around obstacles. For general drywall finishing and patching, I found myself reaching for this pan more often than my hawk.

What I’d change

• Light de-burring from the factory. The edge performance is excellent, but a smoother rim would be friendlier without harming scraping ability.
• A more removable label. An easy-peel sticker or a cardboard wrap would save five minutes on day one.
• Optional comfort grip. A simple rubberized band for the center would improve hold, especially in cold rooms or with wet gloves.
• Beefier end-cap welds. Mine were fine, but slightly larger spot welds would inspire more confidence for heavy jobsite abuse.

Who it’s for

If you’re a DIYer tackling rooms, bathrooms, and regular repair work, this pan is a smart, budget-friendly choice that won’t fight you. If you’re a pro who needs a dozen pans on a site, these will do the job and keep weight down, though you may still prefer stainless for maximum durability and a more finished rim. Anyone expecting to leave a pan soaking in water overnight or riding around in the back of a truck with demo debris should step up to heavier-gauge stainless.

The bottom line

The Edward Tools mud pan gets the fundamentals right: proper length for 12-inch knives, light in the hand, rims that actually clean a blade, seams that stay dry, and a finish that resists rust with basic care. It’s not fancy and it’s not indestructible, but it’s efficient. With a couple minutes of edge prep, it becomes an even better daily tool.

Recommendation: I recommend this mud pan for DIYers and pros who want a lightweight, rust-resistant steel pan with excellent scraping performance at a sensible price. It holds enough compound for real work, keeps leaks at bay, and cleans up quickly. If you need maximum durability, polished edges out of the box, or you’re hard on your gear, a stainless pan with heavier gauge steel and a comfort grip will serve you better. For most finishing tasks, though, this one earns a spot in the kit.