Teemyaa Light Fixture Mounting Brackets, Adjustable Mounting Plates for 4" J-Box, Light Crossbar Set with Screw and Nuts for Wall Light, Close to Ceiling Light, Chandelier, Pendant, 2 Pack

Why I reached for these adjustable mounting brackets

I first grabbed this set while swapping out a pair of porch sconces and a shallow flush-mount in a 1960s house. The fixtures looked great out of the box, but the included crossbars didn’t line up with the boxes, and the walls weren’t perfectly flat. Classic scenario: misaligned screw holes, recessed junction boxes, and canopies that won’t sit flush. The Teemyaa adjustable mounting brackets promised an easy alignment fix, plus a little extra reach—exactly what those installs needed.

Build and design

This is a two-piece, rotating crossbar built for 4-inch junction boxes. The two straps overlap and pivot around a central screw, letting you rotate up to 180 degrees to place the fixture mounting posts where you need them. It’s stamped steel with a gold zinc-style finish—nothing flashy, but corrosion-resistant and appropriate for a hidden bracket. The kit includes the details I expect to see for a clean finish: black acorn cap nuts, washers, machine screws, ground screws, and a few wire connectors. The hardware quantity is enough to outfit two fixtures.

Tolerances on the bracket feel decent for the price. The slots are long enough to accommodate a range of hole patterns, and the steel has enough rigidity that it doesn’t deform under normal torque. It’s not a fan-rated support (and doesn’t claim to be), so I treat it as a light-duty, fixture-only solution.

Installation experience

I installed one bracket on a plastered exterior wall where the round box sat about 3/8 inch behind the finished surface, and another on a ceiling where the box was slightly cocked. In both cases, the adjustability solved two problems at once: screw location and canopy alignment.

Here’s how I approached it:

• Power off at the breaker, test with a non-contact tester.
• Dry-fit the bracket to the 4-inch box using the included machine screws.
• Rotate the two-piece crossbar until the fixture posts land exactly behind the fixture’s keyholes.
• Tighten the pivot joint, then snug the box screws while watching the canopy alignment.
• Finish up with the provided washers and acorn cap nuts for a tidy look.

A couple of practical notes from the installs:
- The pivot screw: As you position the two straps, the central screw can loosen. I added a drop of medium-strength threadlocker on one bracket and a tiny lock washer on the other. After that, rock solid. If you don’t have threadlocker, a careful snugging with a hand driver works, but check it again before the canopy goes on.
- Box alignment: On one older round box, the hole spacing was tight against the end of the slot. It still fit, but I had to nudge the bracket a bit to catch enough thread. If you regularly work in older homes, keep a file handy; I didn’t need it here, but I can see a scenario where a tiny touch-up would speed things along.
- Depth: The overlapping crossbars can effectively give you a bit of extra stand-off. That helped me bridge a recessed box without resorting to a ring extender. It’s not a substitute for an actual extension ring when code or support requires it, but for minor depth adjustments, it’s helpful.

Adjustability that actually matters

The main win is the 180-degree rotation. Instead of fighting with fixed-hole crossbars or trying to clock a universal plate just right, I could simply dial in the exact location for the mounting screws. That made it easy to:
- Center the canopy over a slightly off-center box.
- Align sconces so the fixture sits perfectly plumb even if the box isn’t.
- Land screws in locations that match the fixture’s keyholes without elongating anything.

Once tightened, the bracket stayed where I set it and didn’t wander during final mounting.

Stability and load considerations

For standard wall lights, small pendants, and low-profile ceiling fixtures, the bracket feels appropriately sturdy. There’s minimal flex, and the washers plus acorn cap nuts provide a stable, finished connection. That said, I would not use this for anything heavy, and certainly not for a ceiling fan or a fan-light combo. The bracket isn’t designed to carry dynamic loads or significant weight. If your fixture is substantial or you’re unsure about the box’s support, step up to a fan-rated box and bracket.

Compatibility

These are intended for 4-inch junction boxes. They’ll cooperate with most round boxes and many octagons, but they’re not a fix-all for every oddball scenario. If you’re dealing with a pancake box or a very small canopy, check clearances and aesthetics first—those black acorn nuts look nice, but on an exposed, very small canopy in a bright finish, they may stand out. I keep a few different color cap nuts in the van for that reason.

Screw lengths are adequate for drywall-over-box situations. In thicker plaster or wainscot installs, you may need longer 8-32 machine screws.

What you get in the kit

In each two-pack:
- Two adjustable crossbars
- Machine screws for the box and fixture posts
- Ground screws
- A few wire connectors
- Washers and black acorn cap nuts

It’s enough to complete two fixtures without digging through the spare-hardware bin. The inclusion of ground screws is a nice touch; I used one on the exterior sconce where the box lacked a reliable attachment point for ground.

Downsides and small quirks

• Pivot retention: Out of the package, the central joint can loosen during positioning. A drop of threadlocker or a small lock washer fixes it.
• Tolerance stack-ups: On one older box, the slot reach was right at the limit. It worked, but there wasn’t a ton of wiggle room. If you encounter variances in older housings, be prepared for minor adjustments.
• Not for heavy fixtures: This is a light-duty bracket. If there’s any doubt about the fixture’s weight or motion, upgrade the support system.
• Aesthetic fit: The black cap nuts are great for darker fixtures. For polished brass or satin nickel canopies, you may want matching hardware.

None of these were deal-breakers for me, and all are fairly common considerations with universal crossbars.

Who it’s for

• DIYers upgrading sconces, flush mounts, or small pendants who want an easier way to nail alignment without reworking the box.
• Pros who see a lot of legacy boxes where hole spacing or depth varies and need a reliable, quick solution in the field.
• Anyone dealing with canopies that must sit flush on imperfect surfaces.

If you’re hanging a heavy chandelier or anything that could put side load on the bracket, look elsewhere.

Tips for best results

• Pre-set the rotation and lightly snug the pivot before you attach to the box.
• Use threadlocker or a lock washer on the central screw if you’ll be fiddling with alignment a lot.
• Check canopy fit against the wall or ceiling and use a proper box extender if the gap is more than a small fraction of an inch.
• Keep a few longer 8-32 screws and alternative cap nuts in your kit for edge cases.

Final recommendation

I recommend these adjustable mounting brackets for everyday light fixtures on 4-inch boxes. They solve the two biggest headaches—hole alignment and canopy orientation—without fuss, and the included hardware means fewer trips back to the toolbox. While the pivot joint benefits from a dab of threadlocker and the slot reach can be tight on some older boxes, those are manageable quirks. For sconces, close-to-ceiling lights, and small pendants, they offer a stable, tidy install. Just don’t use them for heavy or moving fixtures, and you’ll be well served.