Mount-It! in-Wall TV Cable Concealer Kit with Recessed Power – Triple Outlet, 9ft Cord, and Hand Saw – Easy, Safe Cable Management for Organized TV and Home Theater Setups

Why I reached for an in‑wall kit

I’ve hidden TV cords every which way—raceways, zip ties, even fishing lines through furniture—but the cleanest results always come from running power and low-voltage cables inside the wall. For a recent living room refresh and a small utility closet tidy-up, I used the Mount-It! in-wall kit. It’s a plug-in, ETL in-wall certified solution with a recessed triple outlet up top, a matching low opening down low, and a 9-foot cord that bridges to your existing receptacle. No electrician required, and the kit ships with the drywall saw, screws, and a cutting template, so you don’t need to hunt for extras.

What’s in the box and how it’s laid out

You get two wall plates: a larger upper plate with a recessed triple outlet and an opening for low-voltage cables, and a smaller lower plate that connects back to your existing wall outlet via the included 9-foot cord. The large plate is 6.3 by 7.9 inches and requires a cutout between studs with at least 2.4" of cavity depth (standard interior walls are typically 3.5"). The finish is white/gray and neutral enough to blend with most walls.

A key point: this is not a hard-wired solution. The internal power module is plug-in, which is what makes it DIY-friendly and code-comfortable in most situations. Your HDMI, Ethernet, and other A/V cables route through the recessed opening, while the triple outlet powers the TV and small accessories like a streaming puck or soundbar power supply.

Installation: genuinely DIY, with a few tips

The installation is straightforward if you plan ahead. Here’s what worked for me:

• Layout first. I mounted the TV bracket before cutting anything. That let me place the upper plate inside the mount’s footprint so the plate disappears behind the TV, even with a slim bracket.
• Find the stud bay. You need clear space between studs. A stud finder helps locate edges, and I also double-checked for pipes or wires using a shallow scan. If your wall has a mid-height fire block (common in older homes), you’ll either need to drill through it (which is not part of this kit’s workflow) or choose a different route.
• Use the template. The included template made marking the cut precise. The provided drywall saw cuts cleanly, though it has a somewhat blunt tip—if you have a jab saw with a sharper point, starting the opening is a bit easier.
• Top plate first, then bottom. I cut and set the upper recessed plate, then placed the lower plate directly below so the cable drop is straight and snag-free.
• Run low-voltage, then power. I fished HDMI and Ethernet through first, then connected the 9-foot power cord from the upper power module down to the lower plate and into an existing outlet.

From first mark to powered-on, the living room job took about 25 minutes, plus a little vacuuming. In the utility closet, the process was similar: I used the lower plate to pick up power from an existing outlet and mounted the upper plate higher on the wall to run a vacuum charger and LED strip without a visible tangle.

How it looks and functions once installed

The visual improvement is immediate. The recessed design keeps plug heads from pushing the TV off the wall, and the opening is spacious enough for multiple HDMI lines and a network cable without cramming. The triple outlet is the right call—two feels tight once you add a streaming box and a soundbar, and three gives you realistic headroom.

The 9-foot power cord is generous. In a typical setup with the lower plate near a baseboard outlet, I had slack to coil behind a media console. That said, measure before you cut. If your outlet is farther than expected or off to the side, reposition the lower plate to keep the cord run tidy and avoid relying on an extension cord.

Safety and certification

The kit’s ETL in-wall certification matters here. In-wall power modules aren’t a place to improvise, and the combination of plug-in power with properly rated components strikes a good balance between safety and accessibility. Low-voltage cables (HDMI, Ethernet) are intended to run inside the wall, and this kit keeps them separate from the plug-in power path in a way that’s clear and easy to route. It’s not a replacement for adding a new hard-wired receptacle or dedicated circuit; it’s a clean way to bring power to where the TV lives by piggybacking from an existing outlet.

Fit, finish, and durability

The plates are sturdy and sit flush with no flex once tightened. The clamps bite well into standard 1/2" drywall. On a 5/8" wall, I still had a solid, flush fit. The white/gray face doesn’t scream for attention, though perfectionists might wish for alternate finishes. I would not count on painting the plate to match exactly; plan your mount positioning so it hides behind the screen or blends near a console.

After a few weeks of use, nothing has shifted, and the plugs stay seated even when I tweak cable routing. The recessed cavity hasn’t deformed, and there’s enough clearance to angle a chunky power supply without hitting the TV back plate.

Capacity and cable management

In my living room, I ran two HDMI lines (one spare), Ethernet, and an optical cable without hassle. There’s room for more, but avoid overstuffing; tight bends can stress HDMI ends and make future swaps annoying. The opening is wide enough to fish new cables later, which is exactly what you want when you add a game console or switch streaming devices.

For the utility closet, the triple outlet was unexpectedly handy. I could power a cordless vacuum base, a small LED strip, and still have a free outlet for occasional use. The recessed design kept everything from snagging as I moved storage bins in and out.

Limitations and gotchas

• Plate size: The upper plate is larger than some competing kits. That’s a benefit for space, but it can be tight behind very slim mounts or small TVs. Plan your mount footprint first.
• Wall depth: You need at least 2.4" of cavity depth. Shallow furring channels on masonry or older plaster systems may not accommodate the box.
• Stud and blocking: You must place the large plate between studs. If there’s a mid-wall fire block, you’ll hit a hard stop for the cable drop unless you modify the wall.
• Included saw: It works, but a sharper-tipped jab saw starts cuts easier. If you have one, use it.
• Not a hard-wired solution: That’s the point for DIY, but if you need a new circuit or a GFCI-protected location, this isn’t a substitute—call an electrician.

Who it’s best for

• Wall-mounted TVs where a clean, cable-free look matters.
• Renters or homeowners who want pro-looking results without opening up a wider section of wall or running new electrical.
• Setups with multiple devices near the TV—soundbar power supplies, streaming sticks, small media boxes—where a third outlet prevents daisy-chaining power strips.

Practical tips for success

• Mount first, cut second. Confirm the upper plate sits within the TV mount’s footprint.
• Measure the 9-foot reach. Place the lower plate where the cord can reach your existing outlet cleanly.
• Pull an extra HDMI now. Future you will appreciate it.
• Label your cables at both ends. It saves time when you swap components.

The bottom line

The Mount-It! in-wall kit hits the sweet spot for a DIY-friendly, code-conscious way to hide TV cords and provide recessed power. Installation is quick, the triple outlet adds real-world flexibility, and the generous opening handles multiple A/V lines without fuss. The plate is on the larger side and requires a standard-depth stud bay, but those trade-offs buy you space and stability once everything is buttoned up.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit. It’s easy to install, thoughtfully designed, and ETL in-wall certified, delivering a clean result that looks like a professional install without the cost or complexity. If you’ve got standard drywall, a clear stud bay, and you want your display area to look tidy, this is the straightforward solution that gets you there.