RESHAKE 22 Gauge 5 Conductor Wire, 10FT 22/5 Tinned Copper 5 Wire Cable,Stranded Electrical Wires for Sprinkler,Thermostat,Trailer,Irrigation,Automotive Etc

Why I reached for a 5‑conductor cable

I run a lot of low‑voltage lines around the house and garage—LED jumps between soffit sections, a couple of irrigation valves, and a handful of sensor runs for a security panel. A 5‑wire cable is a nice sweet spot for those tasks: enough conductors for power, ground, and a few signals, but not so bulky that it’s annoying to route. For my latest round of projects, I picked up the Reshake 22/5 cable and used it across outdoor and indoor jobs to see how it holds up.

Build and materials

The cable is a 22 AWG, 5‑conductor stranded bundle under a black PVC jacket. Each conductor is tinned copper, 17 strands per conductor, with color‑coded insulation (black, red, yellow, white, green). The jacket is tougher and thicker than I expected in this size class—noticeably more abrasion‑resistant than typical thermostat cable or budget alarm wire. It carries a 300 V rating, 5 A max current, a −20°C to 80°C temperature range, and VW‑1/FT1 flame ratings. The PVC jacket is stated as resistant to oil, solvents, and seawater; in practice, it feels like a general‑purpose, outdoor‑tolerant jacket rather than a soft indoor sheath.

The tinned copper conductors are the standout. Tinning improves corrosion resistance (especially helpful outdoors) and also makes soldering cleaner—flux has an easier time wetting the joint, and the strands don’t oxidize as quickly after you strip them.

Handling and installation

Routing the cable through soffits, along fascia, and inside conduit was straightforward. The jacket has enough flexibility to form tidy bends without springing back, but it’s firm enough not to kink. It also tolerates staples well. I used an insulated cable stapler and appreciated the generous buffer between the outer jacket and the inner conductors; I wasn’t worried about nicking a conductor with a misfired staple.

Stripping requires the right tool and a light touch. The outer PVC is thick and somewhat grippy, which is good for protection but means a basic handheld stripper can bite into the inner insulation if you’re careless. I had the best results with a rotary jacket stripper (score and peel technique) or by making a shallow ring cut with a sharp blade and then flexing to split the jacket. Once the outer sheath is off, the inner conductor insulation strips cleanly with a standard 22 AWG die. The tinning keeps the strands together; they don’t fray or smear under the iron, and the plating didn’t recede under soldering heat.

Performance in typical use

• LED jumps/extensions: I used two runs to bridge sections of 24 V RGBW lighting on an eave. Over 10–15 feet, power delivery and signal integrity were solid—no flicker or color shift. This cable isn’t shielded or twisted, but for short to moderate low‑voltage LED jumps it’s perfectly adequate.
• Irrigation valves: A manifold needed three valves plus common, and I wanted a spare conductor. The 22/5 worked well in a short trench in PVC conduit. The jacket shrugged off dirt and minor abrasion during pull‑in. After a few weeks of sun and sprinklers, the jacket hasn’t chalked or stiffened.
• Security sensors: For door/motion loops, the stranded/tinned conductors are a pleasure compared to solid thermostat wire. They tolerate panel service (open/close) without work‑hardening at the terminals.

Noise‑sensitive audio or very long digital runs aren’t this cable’s sweet spot. There’s no shielding and no controlled twist, so if you need to carry low‑level analog audio or long high‑speed data lines, pick a shielded or twisted‑pair cable designed for that job.

Electrical considerations

At 22 AWG, copper DC resistance is roughly 0.016 Ω/ft per conductor. For power applications, plan for round‑trip length. For example, on a 12 V line drawing 2 A over a 20 ft one‑way run (40 ft round‑trip), you’re looking at about 0.64 Ω total and ~1.3 V drop. That’s fine for many 24 V loads and short runs but can be marginal for 5 V or high‑current LED strips.

Two practical tips:
- Parallel conductors for power and ground if you have a spare or two. Using two conductors in parallel halves resistance and cuts voltage drop.
- Keep high‑current runs short, or bump up the gauge elsewhere and use this cable strictly for control and signal.

The 5 A current rating is a maximum; treat it as a chassis wiring limit with short runs in free air. In bundled, warm, or enclosed spaces, derate accordingly.

Durability and environment

The jacket’s abrasion resistance is a genuine benefit on jobs where the cable drags over shingles, rough wood, or concrete. The VW‑1/FT1 flame rating is appropriate for general indoor routing. Outdoors, the PVC jacket resists moisture and sun reasonably well. While the manufacturer notes it could be buried, I still prefer conduit underground for easier replacement and extra mechanical protection.

The 80°C upper temp limit is worth noting for automotive use. Inside a cabin or trunk, no problem. Under‑hood, temperatures can exceed that near the exhaust or radiator; in those areas, I’d choose a cross‑linked polyethylene (XLPE) or high‑temp automotive primary wire instead.

Soldering, connectors, and terminations

The tinned strands take solder quickly, which reduces dwell time and helps avoid melting insulation. Crimp terminations also work well; a ratcheting ferrule crimper with 22 AWG ferrules made clean connections for panel blocks. For splices outdoors, heat‑shrink butt connectors with adhesive lining gave a weather‑resistant result, and the jacket’s thickness provides decent strain relief behind the connector barrel.

Color coding is straightforward and the printed legend is minimal, which I prefer visually. Label both ends with heat‑shrink or flags if you’re using nonstandard color assignments.

What I’d improve

• The outer jacket’s toughness is a blessing during installation but slows you down if you don’t have a proper jacket stripper. Not a deal‑breaker—just plan your tooling and technique.
• Availability in longer put‑ups would be welcome. Ten feet is perfect for short jumps; for whole‑room or whole‑run tasks, 25–50 ft coils or a small spool would reduce splicing.
• No shielding option. For some projects (audio, long sensor runs near mains), a shielded 5‑conductor variant would broaden its use cases.

Who it’s for

• DIY lighting and smart‑home projects: LED jumps, controller runs, low‑voltage accessories.
• Thermostats, sensors, and low‑current controls: Security panel loops, garage door control, relays.
• Light automotive and trailer tasks away from high‑heat areas.
• Hobby electronics: Benchtop harnesses where flexibility and easy soldering matter.

If you need high current over distance, noisy environments, or extreme temperatures, pick a different cable type. Otherwise, this hits a very usable balance of flexibility, protection, and conductor count.

Practical tips

• Score the jacket rather than trying to pull it straight off; you’ll preserve the inner insulation.
• Parallel two conductors for positive and two for ground on power‑hungry loads; save one for signal.
• Use ferrules for clean terminations in screw‑clamp terminal blocks.
• For outdoor splices, use adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink or gel‑filled connectors and add a drip loop.

Recommendation

I recommend the Reshake 22/5 cable for general low‑voltage work where a sturdy, flexible, multi‑conductor harness makes life easier. The tinned copper conductors solder cleanly and resist corrosion, the jacket holds up to real‑world abrasion and staples, and the color‑coded cores simplify wiring. It’s not the right choice for high‑current long runs or noise‑sensitive audio, and you’ll want a proper stripping tool for the outer jacket, but those caveats are easy to plan around. For LED jumps, irrigation manifolds, small control circuits, and sensor wiring, it’s a reliable, tidy solution that has earned a spot in my parts bin.