Shonee Oil Filter Wrench (L:12", Jaw Capacity: 60mm to 102mm), Automotive Oil Filter Removal Tool for Oil Change, Adjustable Fuel Filter Wrench Plier

What it is and where it fits

The Shonee oil filter pliers are a 12-inch, adjustable pair of grippers designed for cylindrical parts from 60 mm to 102 mm (roughly 2-3/8" to 4-1/2"). That range covers most passenger-car oil filters and a good chunk of small equipment filters, as well as fittings, conduit couplings, and other round odds and ends you encounter in a garage. The head is set at a modest 15-degree bend, which sounds subtle but makes a noticeable difference in tight spaces. In short, these are general-purpose filter pliers built for leverage and access, not a single-purpose strap wrench.

Build and ergonomics

Out of the bag, the tool arrives with a light oil film on the black anodized finish. That film is simply rust protection; I wiped it off and left a thin coat in the pivot and on the teeth. The steel feels appropriately stout for the length—no suspicious flex when leaning into a stuck filter—and the pivot action is smooth without slop. The grips are soft and slightly tacky, and they didn’t rotate or creep on the handles during use. They’re also not oversized, which I appreciate; the handles clear crowded engine bays better when the grips aren’t bulky.

The 12-inch length hits a nice middle ground. It’s long enough to generate torque on stubborn filters, yet short enough that I can steer it around hoses and radiator shrouds. The 15-degree offset on the head is the quiet star here. On a transverse V6 with the filter tucked near a subframe, that shallow bend let me keep my knuckles clear while still aligning the jaws squarely to the canister. Straight-jaw pliers often force an awkward wrist angle in the same scenario.

Jaw design and adjustability

These pliers have an adjustable jaw opening that covers the stated 60–102 mm range. I used them on:

• A small spin-on automotive filter (~68 mm)
• A larger canister on a pickup (~95 mm)
• A plastic conduit coupling (just under 90 mm)
• A stuck fuel filter housing cap within the mid-range

Across that spread, the jaws tracked evenly and the teeth bit without skating once I had tension. Like most filter pliers, the teeth are fairly aggressive. That’s a plus for grip on oily metal, but it can mark thin-walled filters or plastic fittings if you overdo it. I found that a light wrap of shop rag over the jaws preserves plastic caps without sacrificing much bite; for metal filters I applied steady pressure and avoided sudden snaps, which keeps denting to a minimum.

Real-world performance

On an oil change where the filter had clearly been over-tightened previously, the pliers broke it loose with controlled torque—no drama, no busted knuckles. I could feel the teeth settle, then with a quarter turn, the seal yielded. On a different job, the filter was tucked behind a sway-bar link; the 15-degree head let me sneak the tool in from above, rotate the handles slightly, and get the bite I needed without removing anything else. That’s where these pliers earn their keep: awkward angles and intermediate space constraints.

On a plastic coupling, I purposely dialed back the clamping force and used a rag as a buffer. The tool had plenty of leverage to unstick the threads without chewing up the plastic. For fuel filter housings, the wide, flat contact patches at the extremes of the jaw opening help stabilize the grip, but I still prefer to treat those carefully and use this only when a dedicated cap tool won’t fit or slips.

Access and control

The head thickness is moderate; it’s not as low-profile as a stamped band wrench or a dedicated cap wrench, but I wouldn’t expect it to be. In cramped engine bays, there were two occasions where a cap-style socket would have been faster simply because of clearance. That’s a trade-off inherent to plier-style tools. However, the offset head mitigates a lot, and the nonslip grips give you good tactile feedback. I could modulate squeeze and torque easily without the handles wanting to twist in my hands, which is key when you’re trying to avoid crushing a filter.

If you frequently work on very tight spaces—turbocharged engines with heat shields hugging the filter, for example—pairing these pliers with a slim cap wrench set covers both ends of the access spectrum.

Durability and maintenance

After several uses, the anodized finish shows only minor, expected wear on the tooth faces and along the outer edges. The pivot remains tight, and there’s no play developing under load. High carbon steel is a good choice here; it resists deformation under the kind of off-axis forces that plier-style tools see.

I did notice a couple of light orange specks at the teeth after a week in a humid shop when I forgot to re-oil them. A quick scrub and a drop of light oil solved it. These are not stainless, and anodizing plus a light oil coat provides “basic” corrosion resistance, not indifference to moisture. Wipe them down after greasy jobs and keep a film of oil in the pivot and on the jaws if your toolbox sees humidity.

Limitations

• Range limits: Below 60 mm (small motorcycle or certain compact filters), these won’t close enough. Above 102 mm (large diesel filters), they won’t open far enough. If your work crosses those extremes, you’ll need other options.
• Jaw aggression: The teeth are designed to bite. That’s good for grip but can dent thin canisters if you bear down excessively. Controlled pressure is part of the technique.
• Access: In ultra-tight confines, a cap wrench on a ratchet can beat these for clearance.
• Finish care: Expect to see light surface oxidation if you store them dry in a damp environment.

None of those are deal-breakers; they’re consistent with the category.

Tips for better results

• Set the jaw at the smallest position that fits, so the teeth engage more squarely and you don’t need as much squeeze.
• Pull, don’t jerk. Constant, increasing pressure breaks seals more cleanly and avoids crushing.
• Use a rag wrap for plastic fittings or painted parts you’d like to keep clean.
• Place the jaws so the fixed side of the head takes the brunt of the load; it’s more stable and transmits torque better.
• Wipe off the factory oil film, then reapply a light coat to the teeth and pivot after use to keep corrosion at bay.

Value

For an adjustable 12-inch plier with a bent head and decent steel, this is an easy buy. You can spend more on brand-name options and get marginally nicer finishing or a slightly slimmer head, but in practical use the performance difference is small. The Shonee pliers hit the key marks—leverage, grip, and adjustability—without fuss.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and pros who want a general-purpose filter removal tool that also pulls duty on round couplings and caps.
• Techs who need leverage and reliable bite more than ultra-low-profile access.
• Anyone who appreciates a modest head offset for knuckle clearance.

If you mainly work on one vehicle and always have room for a cap wrench, a dedicated cap set may be cleaner and quicker. If you see a variety of filter sizes and orientations, these pliers earn their space in the drawer.

Recommendation

I recommend the Shonee oil filter pliers. They’re well sized, the 15-degree head improves access without complicating use, and the jaw range covers most automotive and small equipment work. The grips are comfortable and secure, the steel holds up, and with basic care the finish resists rust. They won’t replace a cap wrench in the tightest spots, and you need a measured hand to avoid denting thin filters, but as a versatile, affordable filter-removal tool that doubles for round fittings, they’re exactly what I want to reach for when a filter refuses to budge.