OLYMPIC WaterGuard 11.75 oz. Woodland Cedar Semi-Transparent Exterior Wood Stain Plus Sealer

What it is and where it fits

Olympic’s WaterGuard stain in Woodland Cedar is a semi-transparent, stain-and-seal-in-one for exterior wood. The 11.75 oz can I tested is the small-project format: think planters, a gate, sections of railing, outdoor furniture, or touch-ups. It lays down a low-sheen, semi-transparent finish that leaves the grain visible, adds a warm cedar tone, and repels water impressively once it cures. The formula includes UV inhibitors and a scuff-resistant resin package, so it’s designed to do double duty—color and protection—without a separate topcoat.

If you’re looking to do an entire deck, the aerosol size isn’t the right tool; you’ll want a quart or gallon. But for targeted jobs or detail work where brushing is awkward, this can makes quick work of it.

Prep and surface compatibility

My best results came when I treated WaterGuard like any other exterior stain:

• Clean and de-gray weathered wood with a deck cleaner/brightener, rinse, and allow to dry thoroughly.
• On new lumber, knock down mill glaze with a light sanding.
• Ensure the wood is dry (below roughly 15% moisture) and the forecast is clear for at least 24 hours.

It’s intended for bare or previously sealed wood with a weathered clear or semi-transparent finish. Don’t expect it to bond to solid stains or paint. I used it on cedar and pressure-treated pine; both took the stain readily.

Application experience

This is a thin, penetrating product, and the aerosol reflects that. It atomizes into a fine, even fan, which is great for getting into fence picket gaps, lattice, and slatted furniture. The flip side is that it can run on verticals if you over-apply or hold the can too close.

What worked for me:
- Multiple light passes, 8–12 inches from the surface.
- Keep the can moving and feather off edges.
- Back-brush with a foam brush on vertical surfaces to even out any developing sags.
- Shake the can aggressively for a full minute before starting and re-shake every minute or so. The finish can sputter near empty; a quick shake settles it.

Overspray is real with a fine mist like this. I masked adjacent siding and laid drop cloths over hardscape; on a breezy day the cloud can travel. Wear a mask and eye protection.

For a small cedar planter and a garden gate, two light coats gave me an even tone with good grain show-through. I also hit a section of deck railing to see how it blended into a previously stained run; the semi-transparent nature made blending painless.

Cleanup was simple—overspray wiped off glass with a damp rag quickly, and there’s very little lingering odor.

Color and finish

Woodland Cedar lands in the warm, medium cedar family with a slightly brown lean rather than orange. On my cedar planter, it enriched the natural color without masking knots or grain. On pressure-treated pine, it evened out the greenish cast and read more brown. As with any semi-transparent stain, the substrate matters: softer pines drink more and read darker; tight-grained cedar stays a half-step lighter. If you’re color-sensitive, test on an offcut or an inconspicuous spot and let it dry before committing.

Sheen is matte to low-satin. There’s no plastic-looking film; it reads like stained wood, not varnish.

Coverage and dry time

Olympic lists 250–350 sq ft per gallon depending on texture. Convert that to the 11.75 oz can and you’re realistically in the 22–32 sq ft per coat range. Factor in two coats, and one can effectively covers 11–16 sq ft of real estate. That matched my experience: two cans comfortably handled a planter, a small gate, and touch-ups on a 6-foot railing section.

Dry time depends on weather. In late-summer conditions (low 70s°F, moderate humidity), it was dry to the touch in about 90 minutes and ready for a second coat at around the two-hour mark. On a cooler, damp autumn day, it stayed tacky well into the evening and didn’t feel fully cured until the next day. Plan accordingly and avoid laying it down when temps are falling toward the 50s or humidity is high. Thin coats help.

Water repellency and durability

Once cured, WaterGuard does exactly what its name implies. On my test pieces, water beaded and rolled off cleanly after the first rain, and the wood didn’t darken from absorbed moisture. The garden gate sees hands, sun, and the occasional dog jump; after a couple of months, color shift has been minimal and the surface still beads water. The deck railing hasn’t picked up the chalky, gray look that clear sealers often get in full sun.

The scuff resistance is solid for a penetrating stain. It’s not a gym-floor finish—dragging metal chair legs will still mark any wood—but for typical contact (hands, garden tools brushing by) I didn’t pick up noticeable scratching. On decks, expect the highest wear on treads and traffic lanes; thin additional coats there make sense.

Olympic claims up to four years on decks and six on fences/siding. Those timelines are always optimistic and climate-dependent. In my climate (four-season, hot summers, freeze/thaw winters), I’d budget for maintenance cleaning and a refresh coat when water stops beading or the color fades, likely every 1–2 years on horizontal surfaces and every 2–3 on verticals.

Where it shines

• Small projects, details, and touch-ups where hauling out a brush and bucket is overkill.
• Lattice, picket gaps, and slatted furniture where a spray can reach what a brush misses.
• Blending into existing semi-transparent finishes without a hard edge.
• Users who want low odor and quick setup with simple cleanup.

What could be better

• The thin consistency demands discipline. Over-application leads to runs, especially on verticals and end grain.
• Dry time is sensitive to weather. In cool, damp conditions, it can stay tacky much longer than you’d expect.
• The aerosol is not an efficient way to finish large areas. Coverage per can is modest, and overspray can waste material if you’re not masked and methodical.
• The nozzle can sputter as the can empties. Frequent shaking mitigates it but doesn’t eliminate it.

Tips for success

• Prep is your friend: clean, brighten if needed, and let the wood fully dry.
• Aim for two or three light coats rather than one heavy coat. Back-brush drips immediately.
• Work out of the sun when possible. Direct sun warms the surface and can flash-dry the top, trapping solvent and extending full cure.
• Mask generously. A fine mist travels farther than you think.
• Test color on the actual wood species and let it dry; semi-transparent stains are substrate-dependent.
• For deck boards and large fences, move to the quart/gallon format and apply by pad, brush, or pump sprayer with back-brushing. Save the aerosol for edges, corners, and repairs.

The bottom line

WaterGuard in Woodland Cedar is a practical, low-fuss way to add color and real water repellency to exterior wood, particularly on smaller projects where control and convenience trump speed. It penetrates well, leaves a natural-looking semi-transparent finish, and beads water convincingly after curing. The built-in UV inhibitors help keep color from washing out early, and the scuff resistance is adequate for everyday use on gates, railings, furniture, and fence panels.

It’s not perfect. The thin body means you need to respect light coats and be ready to back-brush, and dry times can stretch in cool, humid weather. And while the aerosol format is genuinely handy, it’s the wrong tool for large surfaces.

Recommendation: I recommend WaterGuard for small to mid-sized exterior wood tasks and touch-ups where a semi-transparent finish and reliable water beading are the goals. It’s easy to use, low odor, and produces a durable, natural-looking result with minimal fuss—as long as you apply it in thin coats and pick the right size package for the job. For whole decks or long fence runs, skip the aerosol and buy the larger format; for everything else, this can earns its keep.