Mirfane Reinforced Storm Door Closer Bracket Kit, Heavy-Duty Screen Door Closer Replacement Part for Andersen, Emco, Larson & Pella 40201 Door Repair Kits, Protecting Doors from Strong Wind Damage

A gusty afternoon finally finished off the flimsy bracket that had been limping along on my storm door. Rather than replace the entire closer, I tried the Mirfane storm door closer bracket kit—and it turned out to be the right kind of fix: simple, sturdy, and more robust than what came on my door originally.

What this kit is (and isn’t)

This is a replacement bracket set for a storm or screen door closer. You’re not getting a new closer cylinder; you’re getting the hardware that anchors the closer to the jamb and the door. If your door closer works fine but the mounting points are bent, cracked, or ripped out from a wind slam, this kit gives you new metal brackets, fresh pins, and a choice of short and long screws to mount everything solidly again.

In my case, the jamb bracket had wallowed out and the original screws were barely biting. The Mirfane kit replaced both sides of the mounting—jamb and door—with heavier-gauge parts and longer hardware that let me bite into sound wood.

Build quality and materials

Out of the box, the metal feels meaningfully thicker and stiffer than the original stamped brackets on my door. The white finish is even and smooth, and the edges are clean. It’s not flashy hardware, but it looks tidy once installed and blends well with typical white storm doors and trim. If you have a custom color scheme, the coating takes paint; scuff with a Scotch-Brite pad and hit it with a compatible rattle can for a near-invisible install.

The screws included are stainless steel, which I prefer for exterior use. The longer ones are especially helpful if your jamb holes are chewed up—you can reach fresh material without having to relocate the bracket. I’ll note that the heads on mine were consistent and drove cleanly, but I still pre-drilled and waxed them to reduce the chance of stripping in dense wood.

As for corrosion resistance, the coating has held up well so far. On high-exposure doors, I like to dab a little exterior paint on newly cut edges or around the screw heads as extra insurance. It’s a five-minute step that pays off in harsh climates.

What’s in the box

• Door frame bracket and matching base plate
• Adjustable door-side bracket
• Two short screws and three long screws
• Two replacement pins

That’s enough hardware to replace both anchor points and refresh the pins. If you only need one piece, you’ll still end up with spares; not ideal from a waste standpoint, but it does mean you’re covered if another bracket fails later.

Installation experience

This is a straightforward swap if you’re comfortable with a drill/driver. From removing the bent bracket to final adjustment, I spent around 20 minutes, most of that aligning hole positions and pre-drilling.

A few notes from the install:

• I reused the original mounting locations, but I filled the stripped holes with a two-part wood epoxy, let it cure, then drove the longer screws into fresh material. You can also upsize to a slightly larger pilot for a snug fit without splitting.
• The jamb bracket includes a base plate that spreads the load better than the thin OEM part I removed. That extra footprint is likely why my door feels less “springy” now when the closer pulls it shut.
• The door-side adjustable bracket gives you multiple pin positions. I started with the center hole to match my original geometry, then moved one hole over to improve the final latching pull. It’s a small tweak, but it made the last inch of travel firmer without slamming.
• I set the closer speed using the cylinder’s valves after reinstalling the pin. The brackets stayed put while I cycled the door a couple dozen times.

If you’re working on aluminum cladding or a hollow jamb, consider adding a thin steel backing plate or using toggle anchors behind the cladding for a more secure bite. On wood, the included long screws were plenty.

Fit and compatibility

Mirfane claims compatibility with common storm door brands that use the 40201-style pattern. In practice, my hole spacing lined up where it needed to, and the pin fit my existing closer without fuss. If your closer uses a nonstandard pin diameter, check before you start—but most typical residential closers should be fine.

The overall footprint matches what you’d expect, so you won’t have odd gaps or overhangs. The white finish is a neutral white—not glaring blue-white—so it didn’t look off against my trim.

Performance in daily use

The most noticeable difference after installation is rigidity. The original bracket flexed under load, especially in a crosswind; the Mirfane bracket barely moves. That translates into a tighter final latch and fewer instances of the wind grabbing the door and yanking the arm.

I let the door ride through a few windy afternoons, and the bracket held true. No creaking, no new play, and no loosening screws. The added thickness and the broader base plate are doing their job—spreading out the forces that usually fatigue these parts.

Quirks and limitations

• Hardware quality: While the stainless screws are the right choice for outdoors, they’re still stainless—softer than hardened steel. Pilot holes are important, and a bit of wax goes a long way. If your jamb is oak or another dense hardwood, consider stepping your pilot hole up a hair to avoid cam-out.
• Finish longevity: The coating looks good, but any exterior hardware benefits from touch-up. I recommend sealing the screw heads and cut edges with exterior paint if you’re in a coastal or high-salt environment.
• More parts than you may need: The kit includes both sides and extra pins, which is great coverage, but if you only need one bracket you’ll have leftover pieces.

None of these are deal breakers, but they’re worth planning for so you get the best result.

Tips for a better install

• Dry-fit the brackets with the closer attached to confirm pin alignment before driving screws.
• Pre-drill with the right diameter for stainless screws and use a fresh #2 Phillips bit to minimize cam-out.
• If previous holes are blown out, use wood epoxy or dowel plugs, then switch to the longer screws for a fresh bite.
• Set the adjustable bracket hole position to improve final latch pull; tweak the closer’s speed valves after.
• Add a thin bead of exterior sealant behind the jamb plate if water intrusion is a concern.

Value and alternatives

For the cost of a couple of takeout lunches, this kit saved me from replacing a closer that was otherwise fine—and spared my door frame from further damage. Heavier-duty brackets do exist, especially in commercial lines, but they’re often overkill and ill-suited to residential aesthetics. Full closer replacements sometimes include brackets, but they usually don’t address torn-out holes or flex the way a reinforced bracket and longer hardware do.

If you’re replacing a failed closer cylinder anyway, you can absolutely pair that with this bracket kit for a belt-and-suspenders refresh.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners whose storm/screen doors have ripped-out or bent brackets
• Anyone in windy areas where flimsy OEM hardware keeps failing
• Renters who need a tidy, paintable fix that won’t look out of place

If your issue is a leaking or weak closer cylinder, this kit won’t solve that—look for a new closer. But if the mounting is the weak link, this is the fix.

Recommendation

I recommend the Mirfane storm door closer bracket kit. It’s noticeably sturdier than the average OEM hardware, installs cleanly with basic tools, and includes the right mix of parts to rehabilitate a damaged mounting point. The stainless screws and anti-corrosion finish are smart choices for exterior use, and the adjustable door-side bracket gives you room to fine-tune the door’s closing behavior.

Plan on proper pilot holes and consider a dab of paint on the screw heads if you’re in a harsh climate. Do that, and this is a low-cost, high-impact repair that should outlast the bracket it replaces.