BFXM 2PCS Brake Caliper Hanger Compression Mechanic Tool with Rubber Tips, Durable Steel, Rust-Proof Automotive Tools for Braking, Axle, Suspension, Herramientas para Extensión de Frenos

Why I added these to my brake drawer

I’ve hung more calipers with wire, bungee cords, and the occasional coat hanger than I care to admit. They work—until they don’t. A dropped caliper or a nicked brake hose is an expensive lesson. After a few jobs with the BFXM caliper hangers, I stopped improvising. They’re simple, rigid, and fast to use, and that changes the rhythm of brake and suspension work more than you might think.

Design and build

Each hanger is an S-shaped hook made from forged steel, 7.87 inches long and about 1.8 inches wide, with rubber caps on both ends and a bright yellow powder coat. The finish is easy to spot in a crowded cart, and the steel doesn’t flex under load—exactly what you want when there’s a heavy caliper hovering near a painted fender or delicate hose. BFXM rates them to 107 pounds, which is comically overkill for passenger car calipers but reassuring when you’re supporting a knuckle or a bracket during suspension work.

The rubber tips matter. On bare metal hooks, I’ve had paint scuffs inside wheel wells and the occasional slip on a painted surface. These caps add grip and protect finishes. The package includes spare tips, which I promptly threw in the same drawer; they do wear if you’re hooking onto sharp edges or rough castings, and having extras is a thoughtful touch.

Setup and how I use them

There’s no setup—just hook and go. In practice, a few habits make them safer and more convenient:

• For MacPherson strut cars, I hook one end through a coil on the spring and the other around the caliper. The length is just right to keep the caliper clear of the rotor and wheel studs without stressing the hose.
• On double-wishbone or multilink setups, I’ll often hook to a slotted strut tower hole, a sturdy subframe opening, or a thick control arm flange. The S-shape gives you options for vertical or lateral hangs.
• When replacing control arms or ball joints, I’ve used a hanger to support the knuckle while I free the taper. It keeps the assembly from flopping around and tugging on the ABS wire.
• During cleaning or painting small parts (brackets, shims), the hooks double as drying hangers.

A quick tip: wipe the rubber tips if they get oily or dusty; clean rubber grips better than dirty rubber. If you’re working around freshly painted or powder-coated parts, leave the caps on. If you need a more aggressive bite on a raw casting or a thick flange, you can slip the tip off temporarily—but I rarely find that necessary.

Performance in the bay

The difference between a rigid hanger and a bungee cord is night and day. The BFXM hangers don’t bounce, don’t stretch, and don’t twist the caliper unexpectedly. That stability frees both hands for the real task—compressing pistons, swapping pads, or pressing in a new control arm bushing.

I’ve hung small floating calipers from compact cars and heavier dual-piston units from midsize trucks; none of them challenged these hooks. The rigidity is confidence-inspiring. Where I’ve had issues with improvised wire deforming, these hold their shape, so your caliper stays where you put it.

The bright yellow finish is practical, not gimmicky. In a wheel well or under a dim fender light, the color is easy to spot, which reduces the “where did my hook go?” shuffle. The coating has held up to brake cleaner and light solvent exposure so far without chalking or peeling. I expect it to scuff over time—tools are tools—but with the steel being the important part, cosmetic wear doesn’t worry me.

Compatibility and limitations

For most passenger cars, crossovers, and light trucks, the size and shape are right on the money. Length is the Goldilocks dimension: long enough to clear the rotor and hub, short enough to keep the mass of the caliper close to the anchor point so it doesn’t swing.

There are a few edge cases:

• Lifted trucks and vehicles with long-travel suspensions sometimes benefit from a longer hook; if the coil spring sits farther from the knuckle, you may wish the hanger were an inch or two longer.
• Very thick anchor points (some boxed frame flanges) can be a tight fit for an S-hook. In those cases, I look for a subframe slot, a spring coil, or a hole in the strut tower instead.
• If you routinely service heavy-duty platforms with multi-piston iron calipers, check your anchor point and orientation carefully. The hanger is rated high, but leverage from a long overhang can make a caliper want to rotate. Twisting the hanger slightly to preload it against the anchor helps prevent that.

None of these are dealbreakers; they’re typical realities of universal hooks. For most everyday brake and suspension jobs, they’re grab-and-go.

Durability and maintenance

The forged steel construction is the main story: no flex, no deformation. Mine still look straight after multiple uses on front and rear axles. The powder coat has shrugged off a few accidental taps with a wrench and intermittent blasts of brake cleaner. The rubber tips are consumable; if you hook onto sharp lip edges or cast iron corners all day, you’ll eventually nick them. Swapping in the included spares takes seconds.

Storage is easy. They nest flat in a shallow drawer and hang cleanly on a pegboard. Because they’re bright, I’m less likely to leave one in a wheel well—a small but real advantage in a busy bay.

Alternatives and value

You can hang calipers with wire, zip ties, or bungees for pennies, and magnetic hangers exist as well. Here’s how these stack up:

• Versus wire/coat hangers: The BFXM hangers are faster and won’t deform mid-job. They also don’t bite into hoses or paint like twisted wire can.
• Versus bungees: No stretch, no rebound, better stability. Bungees can allow the caliper to bounce back into your work area.
• Versus magnetic holders: Magnets can be great on clean, flat steel surfaces but are useless on aluminum knuckles or dirty, painted wheel wells. The S-hook works nearly everywhere.

Given the durability, the inclusion of two hooks and spare tips, and the time saved, the value is easy to justify for anyone who does brakes more than once or twice a year.

Tips for getting the most out of them

• Choose an anchor that can’t move: coil spring, subframe hole, or a reinforced bracket. Avoid thin sheet metal lip edges that can flex.
• Preload the hook by twisting slightly after you hang the caliper. This keeps the hook from sliding if the assembly shifts.
• Mind your hoses and ABS wires. Even with the caliper supported, check that nothing is in tension when you turn the knuckle or remove the rotor.
• Keep the rubber tips clean. A quick wipe with a rag improves grip.

What I’d change

I wouldn’t mind a longer version included in the set for trucks and SUVs with more suspension droop, and a slightly larger hook throat on one side would expand anchor options on bulkier frames. Those refinements would cover nearly every vehicle I see. As-is, for typical passenger vehicles, the current size is well-judged.

Recommendation

I recommend the BFXM caliper hangers. They’re sturdy, stable, and thoughtfully finished, with rubber tips that protect parts and a bright coating that makes them hard to misplace. The 107-pound rating and forged steel construction inspire confidence, and the included spare tips are a nice touch. For everyday brake and suspension work, they save time, prevent hose damage, and make the job cleaner and safer. If you regularly service heavy-duty trucks or lifted rigs, you may still want a longer hook in your kit, but for most garages and DIYers, this two-pack hits the sweet spot of simplicity and reliability.