MAXXHAUL 70108 Aluminum Cargo Carrier With High Side Rails- Trailer Hitch Mount For RV's, Trucks, SUV's, Vans, Cars With 2" Hitch Receiver - 500-lb Load Capacity, Grey, 49" x 22.5"

Why I added a hitch basket to my setup

I needed more space without turning my vehicle into a billboard for drag. A roof box was off the table after watching my fuel economy nosedive on previous trips. That’s what led me to the MaxxHaul aluminum carrier—a basket-style, hitch-mounted rack that promised extra capacity with minimal hassle. After assembling it, running local errands, and logging highway miles with everything from coolers to storage totes, I came away impressed with how much capability you get for the weight and price.

Build and design

This rack strikes a smart balance: the basket is extruded aluminum, while the shank and underframe are steel. The result is a platform that’s light enough to handle solo but stiff where it matters. The aluminum rails won’t rust, and the high side walls (about 6 inches inside) keep bulky items like coolers, fuel cans, and bins from shifting around. The outer dimensions measure roughly 49.25 by 22.5 inches, with an inner footprint of about 47.25 by 20.25 inches—big enough for one large tote plus smaller items, or a big cooler and soft bags.

The rails have plenty of tie-down points, and the integrated reflectors and red corner accents help with visibility at night. I still recommend adding auxiliary lighting if your load blocks your tail lamps—more on that below.

A couple of notes on design:
- The basket floor uses slats with small gaps. Small, loose items should go in a bin or bag.
- The shank is a fixed, non-folding design. You’ll either leave it on between trips or remove it; there’s no “fold-up against the bumper” position.

Assembly and installation

Assembly took me about an hour with basic hand tools. The instructions are clear enough, but there are a lot of fasteners, so having a socket set speeds things up. Tips from my build:
- Don’t overtighten the bolts into the aluminum rails; snug and evenly torqued is the goal.
- A dab of medium-strength threadlocker on the fasteners helps them stay put after miles of vibration.
- Check the basket for square before final tightening; a quick tape measure check corner-to-corner helps.

Mounted in a 2-inch Class III/IV receiver, the steel shank felt confidence-inspiring. Like most hitch accessories, there was a bit of play in the receiver. I paired the rack with an anti-rattle clamp and a locking hitch pin, which eliminated wobble and added some theft deterrence.

On-road performance

Loaded with a mix of a full-size cooler, camping chairs, and a 27-gallon tote, the carrier was stable at highway speeds. Crosswinds and rough pavement didn’t produce any unnerving flex, and I didn’t notice buffeting. In my MPG tracking, the hit was negligible compared with the penalty of a roof box—one of the biggest advantages of carrying gear in the slipstream behind the vehicle.

The high side rails make it easy to run straps in a crisscross pattern over gear. I used ratchet straps for the main hold-downs and a cargo net over the top for redundancy and to corral odd shapes. I’d avoid bungees as a primary restraint; they’re fine as a secondary measure but not for securing heavy loads.

Capacity and weight limits

The rack is rated for 500 pounds. That’s a realistic structural rating for the carrier itself, but the true ceiling is your vehicle’s hitch tongue rating minus the weight of the carrier. Also remember that weight at the far back of the vehicle has leverage; it “feels” heavier to the hitch than the same weight directly above it.

Rules I follow:
- Check your hitch’s tongue weight rating. Subtract the rack’s weight (light, but it still counts).
- Keep the heaviest items centered and as close to the vehicle as possible.
- Recheck strap tension at your first stop; webbing settles once the load shifts a bit.

With those caveats, I had no trouble hauling a loaded cooler, a large tote, and misc. camp gear—well within a sensible margin.

Weather and exhaust considerations

This is an open carrier, so plan for spray and grit. After a rainy drive, the underside of my bins was wet and splattered. The tops and most of the sides stayed relatively dry at speed due to airflow, but I wouldn’t count on that in a downpour or swirling crosswinds. A weatherproof cargo bag or latching plastic totes keep gear clean and dry. If you’re carrying anything that must stay pristine, bag it.

Heat from the exhaust is a common worry. On my crossover, the exhaust outlet sat far enough from the carrier that plastic bins stayed cool to the touch during long highway stints. That said, exhaust layouts vary. It’s worth a dry fit: measure the distance from the exhaust tip to the nearest point of your expected cargo and avoid placing soft plastics directly in the exhaust plume.

Compatibility and everyday usability

• Receiver: 2-inch (Class III/IV). It won’t fit 1.25-inch receivers without an adapter, and I don’t recommend adapters for heavy loads.
• Ground clearance: On SUVs and trucks, clearance was fine. On lower vehicles or steep driveways, watch your departure angle.
• Access: With the rack loaded, most liftgates won’t open fully. Plan your packing so things you may need are accessible, or unload a piece or two first.
• Sensors: Backup sensors and some driver aids can get false alerts when the rack is installed. Easy enough to ignore, but it’s a quirk to note.

Durability and maintenance

Aluminum won’t rust, which is a big plus if you drive in wet or salty conditions. The steel underframe appears well-coated, but I still give it a rinse after winter trips. After assembly, I applied anti-seize to the steel/aluminum interfaces and checked the fasteners after the first drive; nothing loosened. Store it indoors if you can—it’s light enough to hang on a garage wall with a couple of sturdy hooks.

Safety and visibility

The reflectors are helpful, but if your load extends outboard or blocks your taillights, I’d add a low-profile LED light bar tied into your 4-pin trailer connector. A cargo flag or reflective tape on the outer rail also improves visibility at dusk. For security, a locking hitch pin and a cable lock through your bins deter opportunistic theft.

Where it shines (and where it doesn’t)

What I liked:
- Lightweight but solid; easy for one person to install and remove.
- High side rails with useful tie-down points.
- Rust-resistant basket with a stout steel subframe.
- Minimal impact on fuel economy compared with roof carriers.
- Sensible footprint that fits coolers and large totes without protruding past the bumper corners.

What could be better:
- Fixed, non-folding shank means you’ll remove it between trips if you want a clean rear profile.
- No integrated light/plate mount; you’ll need to DIY if your load obscures lights or the license plate.
- Open design means plan for spray; a cargo bag or sealed totes are basically mandatory in wet weather.

Who it’s for

• Road-trippers and campers who want to offload messy or bulky items—coolers, fuel cans, firewood, wet gear—outside the cabin.
• SUV and truck owners with a 2-inch receiver who value low weight and rust resistance.
• Anyone who prefers ground-level loading over lifting heavy gear overhead.

If you need a folding carrier or one with a built-in rise for extra ground clearance, you might look at alternatives. And if you routinely carry near the limit of your hitch rating, a small utility trailer may be the safer play.

Final recommendation

I recommend the MaxxHaul aluminum carrier. It hits the sweet spot for weight, rigidity, and price, and it’s genuinely practical in day-to-day use. The aluminum basket shrugs off weather, the steel underframe keeps everything stable at speed, and the size is right for common totes and coolers. Add a couple of quality ratchet straps, consider a cargo bag or sealed bins, and pair it with an anti-rattle clamp. For expanding cargo capacity without killing mileage or complicating storage, it’s a smart, straightforward solution.