Fit-Right Adjust-A-Gate Adjustable Chain Link Square Corner Complete Gate Kit, Fit-Right, Black, 6'H

Why I picked this kit

I needed a 10-foot drive-through gate for my side yard, and the Fit-Right gate kit promised an adjustable, powder‑coated solution without hiring a fabricator. The appeal was clear: a pair of 6-foot-tall chain-link gate panels I could size to my odd opening, a latch that actually locks, and a finish that wouldn’t look like raw galvanized pipe. I’ve installed my share of welded chain-link gates and premade panels, so I was curious whether an adjustable kit could hang straight, stay square, and survive daily use.

What you actually get

Out of the box, the gate kit includes steel tube frames with square corners, chain-link fabric cut to suit, a lockable latch, and clamp-style hinges for the gate side. Everything is powder-coated black, which looks cleaner than standard silver chain link. Notably absent are the post hinges—those are the parts that attach to your fence posts—so plan to buy the appropriate size for your post diameter. If you’re building a double gate, you’ll also want a cane bolt and a center stop (not included) to keep the inactive leaf anchored.

The tubing is the familiar 1-3/8-inch diameter you see on many chain-link systems, so sourcing extra fittings or replacement hardware later won’t be exotic. Each leaf is light enough to handle solo but rigid enough, on paper, to span up to 72 inches. That’s the headline: adjust one or both leaves anywhere from 24 to 72 inches and you can cover up to 12 feet as a drive-through.

Setup and tools

This isn’t a plug-and-play solution. You’ll need:

• A hacksaw or metal-cutting saw to trim the frame rails to your width
• A file or deburring tool to clean cut ends
• A square, clamps, and a flat assembly surface
• Drill/driver with the right nut driver for the self-tapping screws
• Tape measure, level, and a couple of sawhorses
• Optional: construction adhesive or epoxy for joints, medium-strength threadlocker, and cold-galv primer for cut ends

I pre-assembled the frames on sawhorses, dry-fit first, then marked and cut the rails. Cutting both leaves to identical widths makes the latch line up neatly. After deburring, I added a light coat of cold-galv primer to the bare steel inside the cut before final assembly, then touched up with black paint. That extra five minutes pays back in corrosion resistance.

Getting the frames square is the critical step. I clamped the corners to a carpenter’s square and checked diagonals until they matched within 1/16 inch before running in the self-tapping screws. Here’s a small trick that helped: a thin bead of construction adhesive inside the corner sleeves before tightening. It quiets micro-movement that can lead to racking over time.

Fitting the chain-link fabric

The included fabric is powder-coated black to match. I stretched it across each frame with a makeshift stretcher bar and a couple of clamps, then tied it off with the supplied wires. Cutting chain-link can cause a strand to unravel if you snip the wrong side of a twist; I cut at the knuckle and untwisted the interlock to separate cleanly. Once tied and trimmed, the panels looked seamless. The powder coat is even and resists scuffs better than bare galvanized during install.

Hinges and latch

The included clamp-style hinges attach to the gate frame; you supply the matching post hinges. On a round post, band-style post hinges work well. The clamp hinges on the black powder-coated frame can slip if you don’t prep for friction. I lightly scuffed the contact area on the frame (just enough to dull the gloss), added a wrap of friction tape, and used star washers under the clamp nuts. Torqued properly, that stopped any vertical creep and kept the gates from settling. If you skip these steps, expect to re-adjust.

The latch is basic but functional and accepts a padlock. It’s not a self-closing setup; if you want that, pair it with a closer or spring later. I swapped a handful of the kit’s self-tapping screws for higher-quality ones after a couple felt soft at the head and wanted to cam out. Pre-drilling a proper pilot and using a fresh driver bit helps a lot here.

Adjustability in practice

Adjusting for width is straightforward conceptually: you trim the rails to fit your opening. In practice, accuracy matters. Measure the clear opening after your posts are set and plumb (and after any fabric tensioning) and subtract desired clearances at the latch and hinge sides. I left roughly 3/8 inch at the latch side and a similar gap at the hinges to account for swing and seasonal movement.

As a double gate, the full-span option up to 12 feet is a huge convenience for trailers and mowers. Just remember to add a cane bolt to lock the inactive leaf and a ground stop so you’re not relying solely on the latch to locate the gates.

Rigidity and squareness over time

Square-corner chain-link frames are notorious for racking if corners loosen or if the fabric isn’t reasonably taut. After a few weeks of opening and closing multiple times daily, mine stayed square. I credit three things:

• Careful initial squaring and diagonal measurement
• The adhesive in the sleeves, which reduced micro-rotation at joints
• A light diagonal tension cable with a turnbuckle (not included) that I added on the wider leaf

That last addition is optional but recommended for spans over five feet. It takes the bounce out and resists sag without adding much weight. If you don’t want to add a cable, at least revisit your screws after a week and snug everything again.

Finish and weather

The powder coat has held up well. It shrugs off fingerprints and rain spots better than galvanized, and it looks sharp against black vinyl-coated chain link. The big vulnerability is the cut ends. If you skip priming and paint, you’ll get orange freckles eventually, especially near the coast. A minute with cold-galv spray at install is cheap insurance.

The install curve

Is this beginner-friendly? With patience, yes—but it’s not foolproof. The two most common pitfalls I see:

• Frames out of square: once the fabric goes on, small errors become permanent waves. Clamp, measure diagonals, and don’t rush.
• Hardware fussiness: soft self-tappers and smooth powder coat don’t love high torque. Pre-drill, use good bits, and consider a few upgraded screws in high-stress spots.

If you’re comfortable cutting metal, squaring a frame, and sourcing the missing bits (post hinges, cane bolt, center stop), the kit saves time and money over buying custom panels. If you want a “hang it and forget it” solution with no cutting, a preassembled gate may fit better.

What I’d improve

• Include higher-grade fasteners. The price difference is minor, and it would save a lot of frustration.
• Provide textured hinge clamps or knurled inserts to better bite on powder coat.
• Offer an add-on pack with post hinges, a cane bolt, and a center stop sized to common post diameters to streamline double-gate installs.

Bottom line

The Fit-Right gate kit delivers on the promise of an adjustable, good-looking chain-link gate without hiring a fabricator. It’s light enough to handle solo, sturdy enough once squared and tightened, and the finish is a cut above typical silver chain link. The trade-offs are real: you’ll cut the rails to fit, you’ll fuss with squareness, you’ll want to upgrade a few fasteners, and you must buy post hinges (and a cane bolt for a double gate). Address those, and the result is a reliable, secure entrance that swings smoothly and locks cleanly.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for DIYers comfortable with basic metal work and careful assembly, especially if you need a custom width or a double drive-through up to 12 feet. It’s cost-effective, looks good, and holds up if you take the time to square, secure, and protect the cut ends. If you’re a first-timer hoping for a no-cut, drop-in solution—or if you don’t want to source extra hardware—opt for a preassembled gate instead.