DWALE Power Whip Assembly Kit -1/2" x 4ft Non-Metallic Liquid Tight with 10 Gauge Wire Electrical AC Whip Kit Flexible Electrical Conduit & straight/90°Fittings

Why I reached for this whip

I installed the DWALE whip to tie a new outdoor condenser into a nearby 240V disconnect, and I wanted something liquid‑tight, UV‑safe, and quick to trim to length. A preassembled, non‑metallic whip with 10 AWG copper conductors fit the bill. Four feet is a practical length for most condenser/disconnect layouts, and the included straight and 90° fittings cover the two most common exit angles without an extra supply‑house trip.

What’s in the box

• 4 ft of 1/2‑inch trade size, non‑metallic, liquid‑tight flexible conduit (gray)
• Three 10 AWG copper THHN/THWN conductors: red, black (hots), and green (equipment ground)
• One straight and one 90° non‑metallic liquid‑tight connector with locknuts and gaskets
• Pretrimmed and pre‑stripped leads

The conduit body is PVC/nylon and is clearly designed for exterior service—sunlight resistant, corrosion resistant, and immune to galvanic issues you get with steel whips in coastal or damp settings. The whole assembly is noticeably lighter than metallic options, which makes routing around the back of a unit or along siding less fatiguing and easier to support.

The wire is real 10 AWG copper with THHN/THWN insulation, appropriate for wet locations and typical 30A HVAC circuits. Note there is no white neutral conductor in this kit; it’s a hot‑hot‑ground setup (red, black, green), which is exactly what most 240V condensers and heat pumps expect. If your equipment requires a neutral, this isn’t the right whip.

Build quality and fittings

The conduit jacket feels tough enough for everyday residential installs. It resists kinks when bent within a reasonable radius and the corrugations don’t snag as badly as some bargain whips when you fish the conductors back a few inches to shorten it.

The included non‑metallic connectors are serviceable. They’re light and the sealing gaskets seat well against a clean enclosure face. I prefer metallic fittings in locations where the whip may see repetitive movement or where there’s the potential for impact, but for a stationary HVAC application they hold tight and seal properly if you snug them by hand and finish with a gentle quarter‑turn using pliers. The 90° elbow is particularly handy when the disconnect knockout is close to the siding and you need to keep the bend tight.

Installation experience

Here’s how the install went for me:

1. Planning the run: With the disconnect mounted within sight of the condenser lugs, four feet gave me enough slack to create a gentle sweep and avoid a tight bend at the equipment cabinet. If you’re mounting further away, you’ll either need a longer whip or to run liquid‑tight from a junction box to the unit.

2. Cutting to length: Shortening the assembly was painless. A sharp utility knife and a cautious hand were enough to score the ridges and cut the conduit square. Because the wires are already in place, I slid them back a few inches before cutting, then trimmed them to staggered lengths so they lay neatly inside the cabinet and landed cleanly on the lugs.

3. Terminations: The pre‑stripped ends save a few minutes, but I usually cut back to fresh copper and strip to the exact depth required by the terminal. On the condenser side, my lugs accepted bare copper conductors; on some equipment, you’ll want ring or spade terminals. Have an assortment of properly sized crimp terminals on hand so you’re not stuck mid‑install.

4. Connectors and sealing: The locknuts thread easily into standard 1/2‑inch knockouts. Make sure the gasket is seated flat, and don’t overtighten—non‑metallic connectors can distort if you get aggressive. A bead of UV‑rated sealant under the fitting flange isn’t required but adds confidence on rough siding.

5. Grounding and torque: The green equipment grounding conductor lands to the condenser’s ground lug. Torque all terminations to the manufacturer’s spec (usually on a label inside the door) and verify a proper bond back to the service equipment.

I’ll add that the conduit was a touch stiffer during a cool morning install, which is typical for non‑metallic liquid‑tight. A heat gun pass isn’t necessary—just plan a slightly larger sweep and it falls into place.

In use and weather performance

This whip is built for outdoor abuse. After rain, I checked the fittings and cabinet—no ingress, no weeping around the connectors. The jacket shrugs off abrasion from coil guards and fasteners, and the UV resistance is a clear step up from generic gray flex that tends to chalk and crack after a season.

Vibration damping is good; the whip doesn’t “walk” or telegraph compressor startup the way thin metallic whips sometimes can. Once set, it keeps its bend without collapsing, and I didn’t notice any deformation where it exits the disconnect.

Electrical suitability and code notes

• Conductor rating: THHN/THWN 10 AWG copper is appropriate for 30A circuits in most HVAC applications, but always match breaker size and wire ampacity to the equipment nameplate and local code amendments.
• Wet location: The wire insulation and liquid‑tight conduit are suitable for wet locations. If you transition to EMT or NM inside, make the change in a proper junction box.
• Neutral: No white neutral is included. For loads requiring a neutral (certain generators, pool controls, or combo equipment), choose a 4‑conductor assembly.
• Length: At 4 ft, this is squarely in “whip” territory. Don’t treat it as a long raceway; if you need distance, run conduit and pull conductors to a field‑assembled box, then use the whip as the final flexible section.
• Direct burial: The conduit material is advertised as direct‑burial tolerant, but the included connectors are panel‑mount, not burial splices. If you intend to bury, use fittings and boxes specifically rated for that application.

As always, check local code and the equipment installation manual. A few jurisdictions are particular about non‑metallic vs metallic fittings on certain rooftop or commercial installs.

What I liked

• True 10 AWG copper conductors with THHN/THWN insulation
• Preassembled, pre‑stripped leads save time and reduce errors
• Two connector options (straight and 90°) cover most layouts
• Non‑metallic body resists corrosion and won’t rust in coastal air
• Flexible enough to route cleanly yet holds its shape once set
• Solid weather seal; stayed dry after sustained rain

What could be better

• The non‑metallic connectors work, but a beefier clamp or a metallic option would inspire more confidence in rough environments
• Slightly stiff in cooler temperatures; allow for a gentler bend radius
• No neutral conductor; that’s fine for most 240V HVAC, but the “10/3” label can be misleading if you expect four conductors including neutral

Tips to get the most from it

• Bring a small assortment of ring and spade terminals sized for 10 AWG in case your unit requires them
• If you need to shorten the whip, stagger the conductor lengths by about 1/2 inch for a cleaner cabinet landing
• Use a plastic‑safe thread sealant sparingly if your enclosure face is irregular; don’t over‑torque the non‑metallic threads
• Label the conductors at both ends (L1, L2, G) even though color coding is clear—it pays off during service

Who it’s for

• HVAC installers and homeowners wiring outdoor condensers, heat pumps, and mini‑splits that use a 240V hot‑hot‑ground configuration
• Pool and spa equipment connections that require a short, flexible, liquid‑tight link to a disconnect
• Small motors and outdoor controls where corrosion resistance is a priority

If your application needs a neutral, if you’re running more than 4 feet, or if the whip may be subjected to frequent movement or impact (certain commercial installs), consider a different configuration or heavier‑duty fittings.

Bottom line

The DWALE whip does exactly what a good A/C whip should: it handles weather, routes cleanly, lands on lugs without drama, and saves time on site. The conductors are appropriately sized and rated, the conduit body is tough and UV‑resistant, and the inclusion of both straight and 90° connectors eliminates a common last‑minute parts hunt. I’d like to see sturdier fittings, but for a stationary residential outdoor unit they’re adequate and seal well.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for residential HVAC and similar outdoor hard‑wired equipment that needs a short, flexible, liquid‑tight connection with 10 AWG conductors. It’s quick to install, corrosion‑proof, and thoughtfully bundled. Just confirm your load doesn’t require a neutral, have the right crimp terminals on hand, and you’ll have a clean, code‑compliant hookup with minimal fuss.