Scroll saw

A scroll saw is a small, benchtop power saw with a thin, reciprocating blade that moves up and down to cut tight curves, delicate patterns, and inside shapes in wood, plastic, and soft metals; it offers precise control, variable speed, and a tilting table, making it safer and more accurate than a jigsaw for fine detail work like fretwork, puzzles, and decorative inlays.

Scroll Saw

What is a Scroll Saw?

A scroll saw is a compact, stationary saw designed for intricate cutting. Instead of a spinning blade, it uses a thin blade that moves up and down (reciprocates), allowing you to follow tight curves and cut tiny details. You can even make inside cuts by drilling a small hole and threading the blade through it. Most models include variable speed, a tilting table for bevels, and a dust blower for a clear view.

How a Scroll Saw Works

The saw’s arm moves the blade up and down at a set strokes per minute (SPM). Material is guided by your hands along the marked pattern while the blade does the cutting. A hold-down foot helps keep thin stock from lifting with the blade. Blade tension is adjusted with a knob or lever—correct tension is key to straight, clean cuts. Throat depth (the distance from the blade to the rear frame) determines how large a piece you can maneuver; common sizes are 16 to 22 inches.

Common Uses in DIY and Home Projects

  • Decorative fretwork panels and name plaques
  • Puzzles, ornaments, and craft items
  • Inlays and marquetry in furniture and boxes
  • Intarsia (shaped wood pieces forming images)
  • Small signs and letters
  • Toy parts and model-making
  • Cutting thin non‑ferrous metals (brass, aluminum), plastics, and gasket material
  • Repair parts where precise, small-radius cuts are needed

Because the blade is so fine, you can achieve crisp corners and delicate lines that are difficult on a jigsaw or bandsaw. It’s also quieter and generally safer for small workpieces.

Types and Key Features

While most scroll saws share the same basic form, a few variations and features matter:

  • Throat size: Indicates capacity. 16-inch models suit most hobby projects; 20–22 inch models offer more room for larger patterns.
  • Arm design: Parallel-arm designs are common and smooth; C-arm and parallel-link designs vary in vibration and feel. Higher-end parallel-link saws tend to run smoother.
  • Blade type compatibility:
    • Plain-end (pinless): Most precise; the standard for fine work.
    • Pin-end: Faster changes but thicker blades limit tight cuts.
  • Variable speed: Useful for matching blade speed to material—slower for plastics and metals, faster for hardwoods.
  • Table tilt: Usually tilts left; premium models tilt both left and right, helpful for bevels and compound cuts.
  • Blade clamps and quick-release tension: Tool-less clamps and a quick tension lever speed up blade changes and inside cuts.
  • Dust control: A blower keeps the cutline visible; some saws add a dust port for vacuum hookup.
  • Vibration control: Heavier bases, better linkages, and solid stands reduce vibration and improve cut quality.

Blade Basics: Types and Selection

Choosing the right blade is half the battle. Key factors include size, tooth pattern, and teeth per inch (TPI).

  • Size (thickness/width): Smaller, thinner blades turn tighter curves but are more delicate. Larger blades are sturdier for thicker stock.
  • Tooth patterns:
    • Skip-tooth: Good general-purpose blade that clears sawdust well.
    • Double-tooth: Smooth finish in hardwoods; slightly slower cutting.
    • Reverse-tooth: Bottom teeth cut on the downstroke to reduce tear-out on the underside.
    • Spiral: Teeth wrap around the blade for cutting in any direction; handy for large workpieces but leaves a rougher edge.
    • Crown-tooth: Teeth alternate up and down for cleaner cuts in plastics.
  • TPI: Higher TPI leaves a smoother edge but cuts slower; lower TPI cuts faster but rougher. For hardwood: 10–15 TPI. For softwood: 7–12 TPI. For plastics and thin metals: 18–28 TPI.

Tip: Keep a small assortment—general-purpose skip-tooth, fine reverse-tooth, and a pack for plastics/metals.

Choosing the Right Scroll Saw

Consider these factors before buying:

  • Project size: Choose throat depth to match your typical work. Name signs and ornaments fit fine on 16-inch; larger fretwork benefits from 20-inch or more.
  • Blade changes: Look for tool-less clamps and a quick-release tension lever if you plan many inside cuts.
  • Speed range: A broad range (e.g., 400–1,800+ SPM) handles wood, plastics, and metals.
  • Table and tilt: A large, flat, low-friction table improves control. Dual-tilt tables add flexibility.
  • Vibration: Read reviews; heavier machines and parallel-link arms run smoother.
  • Accessories: Integrated light, dust blower, dust port, foot switch, and storage help day-to-day use.
  • Service and support: Availability of parts, blade clamps, and a good warranty can save headaches.

Using a Scroll Saw: Practical Tips

  • Pattern transfer: Spray adhesive or blue painter’s tape under the pattern reduces tear-out and makes removal easy. Some use clear packing tape on top to lubricate the cut.
  • Blade tension: Pluck the blade—it should “ping,” not “thud.” Too loose wanders; too tight snaps.
  • Speed and feed: Slow the speed for plastics and metals to prevent melting or overheating. Feed gently; let the blade cut.
  • Relief cuts: For tight inside corners, make small relief cuts to prevent binding and burnishing.
  • Inside cuts: Drill a small pilot hole, thread the blade, clamp, tension, then cut the shape before moving on.
  • Stack cutting: Tape or pin multiple blanks together to produce identical parts in one pass.
  • Keep square: Check the table is 90° to the blade using a small square; use a zero-clearance insert for better support.

Maintenance and Care

  • Blade changes: Replace dull blades early; a sharp blade cuts cooler and straighter.
  • Tension release: Back off blade tension when the saw is idle to extend blade and mechanism life.
  • Cleanliness: Vacuum dust, clear the blower nozzle, and keep the table waxed for smooth feeding.
  • Lubrication: Follow the manual for periodic lubrication of linkages or bushings.
  • Hardware check: Occasionally tighten blade clamps, table locks, and mounting bolts.

Safety Basics

  • Eye protection is a must; consider hearing protection for long sessions.
  • Keep fingers a safe distance; use a small push stick or hold-down for tiny parts.
  • Don’t wear gloves—they can catch the blade. Avoid loose sleeves and jewelry.
  • Secure the saw to a stand or bench to prevent movement.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using the wrong blade: Too coarse for thin stock causes tear-out; too fine for thick stock burns and wanders.
  • Forcing the cut: Pushing hard deflects the blade and snaps teeth. Slow your feed or switch blades.
  • Ignoring tension: Under-tensioned blades twist; over-tensioned blades break.
  • Cutting plastics too fast: High speed melts edges. Slow down and use a fine, cool-running blade.
  • Skipping pilot holes: For inside shapes, drill clean holes; don’t try to pierce the material with the blade.
  • Poor support: A wobbly stand or slippery table surface reduces accuracy.

Related Tools and Terms

  • Fret saw: A manual version for detailed work.
  • Jigsaw: Handheld saw for rougher curves and on-site cuts.
  • Bandsaw: Larger, continuous blade for smoother curves in thicker stock, but less adept at tiny turns.
  • Spindle sander: Cleans up curves after cutting.
  • Intarsia, marquetry, fretwork: Decorative techniques often made on a scroll saw.

Practical Examples

  • Cut a family name sign from 1/4-inch birch plywood using a #5 skip-tooth blade; sand lightly and finish with clear coat.
  • Make holiday ornaments by stack cutting four thin blanks taped together; use a reverse-tooth blade to keep the backs clean.
  • Create an inlay by cutting a pattern in contrasting veneers with a fine, high-TPI blade and gluing the pieces flush.
  • Trim a thin aluminum faceplate at low speed with a 20–28 TPI blade and cutting wax for smoother action.

A scroll saw rewards patience and practice. With the right blade, steady hands, and a clear pattern, you can produce clean, detailed cuts that bring small projects to life.

Back to DIY Dictionary