Saw blade

A saw blade is the removable cutting edge used on hand and power saws, typically made from steel, carbide, or diamond, with teeth or an abrasive rim designed to cut wood, metal, plastic, or masonry; blades differ in diameter, shape, tooth count, and tooth geometry so you can match the blade to the material and type of cut, from ripping framing lumber to trimming plywood or cutting tile.

Saw Blade

What it is

A saw blade is the cutting component of a saw—handheld or powered—that actually does the cutting. Blades are made from materials like high-carbon steel, high-speed steel, carbide-tipped steel, or diamond-bonded rims. Most blades have teeth that slice and clear chips; others (such as many masonry blades) have an abrasive rim that grinds through hard materials. Size, tooth count, tooth shape, and material are chosen to suit what you’re cutting and the quality of cut you want.

Common DIY and Home Uses

Saw blades show up in nearly every home project:

  • Framing and deck building: ripping and crosscutting 2x lumber
  • Trim and cabinetry: clean crosscuts in hardwood, softwood, and plywood
  • Flooring: cutting laminate, engineered wood, and underlayment
  • Plumbing and electrical: cutting PVC, ABS, copper, steel conduit
  • Remodeling and demolition: plunge cuts and rough cuts with reciprocating blades
  • Landscaping: pruning small branches with pruning blades
  • Masonry and tile: diamond blades for ceramic, porcelain, stone, brick, and concrete

Types and Variations

By saw type

  • Circular/table/miter saw blades: Round blades with a center hole (arbor). Used for ripping, crosscutting, and sheet goods.
  • Jigsaw blades: Narrow blades that move up and down. They excel at curves and cutouts. Shanks: T‑shank (most common today) and U‑shank.
  • Reciprocating saw blades: Longer, flexible blades for rough cuts, demolition, and pruning.
  • Bandsaw blades: Continuous loop blades for smooth curves and resawing.
  • Hand saw blades: Replaceable blades on pull saws and some frame saws.

Blade materials

  • High‑carbon steel (HCS): Flexible and inexpensive; good for soft wood and plastic (jigsaw/recip blades).
  • High‑speed steel (HSS): Harder and more heat resistant; better for metals.
  • Bi‑metal: HSS edge welded to flexible back; common for reciprocating and jigsaw blades cutting metal and wood.
  • Carbide‑tipped: Hard, long‑lasting teeth for wood, laminates, non‑ferrous metals; common on circular saws.
  • Diamond: Abrasive rim for tile, stone, concrete, and some fiber cement.

Tooth details (what they mean)

  • Tooth count (TPI or number of teeth): Fewer, larger teeth cut faster but rougher; more, smaller teeth cut slower but cleaner.
    • Circular saws: 24T for fast ripping, 40–60T for general use, 60–80T+ for fine plywood and trim.
    • Jigsaw/recip: Higher TPI (14–24) for metal; lower TPI (6–10) for wood and demolition.
  • Tooth grind:
    • FTG (Flat Top Grind): Strong teeth for ripping along the grain.
    • ATB (Alternate Top Bevel): Cleaner crosscuts and plywood with reduced tear‑out.
    • TCG (Triple Chip Grind): Durable for laminates and non‑ferrous metals.
  • Hook (rake) angle: Positive pulls aggressively and cuts fast; neutral/negative feeds more gently for smoother cuts and safer use on miter saws and non‑ferrous metals.
  • Kerf: The width of the cut. Thin‑kerf blades remove less material and help underpowered saws; full‑kerf blades are stiffer and run truer on robust saws.
  • Arbor (bore) size: The center hole. Common sizes include 5/8 in (US circular saws), 1 in (some table saws), and 20 mm (track saws). Match your saw.

Specialty blades

  • Dado sets: Stackable blades for cutting wide grooves on a table saw.
  • Non‑ferrous metal blades: Carbide with negative hook for aluminum and brass.
  • Continuous‑rim diamond: Smooth edge for wet tile cuts with minimal chipping.
  • Segmented/turbo diamond: Faster cuts in concrete and brick; better cooling.
  • Reverse‑tooth jigsaw blades: Minimize tear‑out on laminates and veneers.

How to Choose the Right Blade

  • Match blade to material:
    • Construction lumber: 24T rip or 40T combination blade (circular/table saw).
    • Plywood/veneers: 60–80T ATB or a fine “plywood/finish” blade.
    • Laminate/melamine: TCG or high‑ATB; consider a scoring pass or tape line.
    • Aluminum/bras: Carbide non‑ferrous blade with negative hook; use wax/lube if recommended.
    • Steel: Bi‑metal reciprocating/jigsaw blades, 14–24 TPI; for sheet metal use higher TPI.
    • Tile/stone: Continuous‑rim diamond for porcelain/ceramic; segmented for stone/concrete.
  • Size and arbor: Never exceed the saw’s rated diameter or use the wrong arbor. Reducer bushings are acceptable only if specified by the blade maker.
  • Saw power: Use thin‑kerf blades on lower‑power portable saws to reduce bogging and burning.
  • Cut quality vs speed: Fewer teeth for speed and framing; more teeth for paint‑ready trim.
  • Safety features: Look for anti‑kickback shoulders, vibration‑dampening slots, and heat vents on circular blades.
  • Budget vs longevity: Carbide lasts far longer than basic steel. If you cut often, buy quality and plan for sharpening.

Use and Maintenance Tips

  • Verify rotation: Align the blade’s arrow with the saw’s rotation direction. Teeth should point the right way.
  • Secure the work: Clamp or support the piece so offcuts can fall away safely. Use a fence or guide for straight cuts.
  • Set blade height: On a table saw, set teeth just 1/8–1/4 inch above the work surface for efficient cutting and clean chip ejection.
  • Control tear‑out: Use a zero‑clearance insert, painter’s tape on the cut line, or score the surface before the final cut on delicate veneers.
  • Feed rate: Let the blade cut. If the motor slows or you smell burning, back off and check for dullness or pitch buildup.
  • Keep it clean: Resin and pitch increase friction and cause burning. Clean with a dedicated blade cleaner or a mild citrus cleaner; avoid harsh caustics that can attack the braze holding carbide tips.
  • Sharpen or replace: Carbide‑tipped blades can be professionally sharpened several times. Replace blades with missing teeth, cracks, or wobble.
  • Store safely: Hang blades or use sleeves. Keep teeth from contacting other metal tools to avoid chipping.
  • Check RPM limits: Never run a blade above its maximum rated speed, especially diamond blades.
  • Personal protection: Wear eye and hearing protection and a dust mask appropriate to the material (use a respirator for cementitious products).

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using a wood blade on metal or masonry (dangerous and destroys the blade)
  • Forcing the cut, leading to binding, burning, or kickback
  • Mismatched arbor size or using a warped blade
  • Choosing too many teeth for thick stock, causing heat and burn marks
  • Dry‑cutting tile with a blade meant for wet use only
  • Ignoring pitch buildup and cutting with a dull blade
  • Mounting a blade backwards on a circular or miter saw

Related Terms

  • Kerf: Width of the cut made by the blade.
  • TPI (Teeth Per Inch): Tooth density on jigsaw/recip/bandsaw blades.
  • Arbor (Bore): The center hole that fits the saw’s shaft.
  • Rip vs crosscut: Cutting along vs across the wood grain.
  • Zero‑clearance insert: Tight opening around the blade to reduce tear‑out.
  • Kickback: Sudden force pushing the work or tool backward due to binding.

Practical Examples

  • Cutting 2x4s for a wall: Use a 24T circular saw blade for fast, straight cuts.
  • Trimming plywood shelves: Install a 60–80T ATB blade, add a track or guide, and use tape on the cut line to reduce chipping.
  • Cutting aluminum angle for a project: On a miter saw, use a non‑ferrous carbide blade with a negative hook; clamp the work and cut slowly.
  • Removing old copper pipe: Use a bi‑metal reciprocating blade, 14–18 TPI, and support the pipe to limit vibration.
  • Installing porcelain tile: Use a continuous‑rim diamond blade on a wet saw for chip‑free edges.
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