Saber Saw (Jigsaw)

What is a saber saw?

A saber saw, commonly known today as a jigsaw, is a handheld power tool that uses a narrow, reciprocating blade to cut. It’s designed for controlled cuts along curves and straight lines, and to make interior cutouts in sheet goods by plunging or starting from a drilled hole. While older usage sometimes distinguished “saber saw” (handheld) from “jigsaw” (bench-top scroll saw), modern tool makers and DIYers typically use “saber saw” and “jigsaw” interchangeably.

How it works

A small motor drives a blade up and down. The tool’s flat base—called the shoe—rests on your material to keep the cut stable. Many models include:
- Variable speed: Slower for metal and plastics, faster for softwood.
- Orbital action: A selectable setting that moves the blade in a slightly forward arc on the upstroke to remove chips faster in wood.
- Beveling shoe: Tilts (often up to 45°) for bevel cuts.
- Tool-free blade change: Quick swaps between blades.
- Blower and/or dust port: Clears the cut line or connects to a vacuum.
- LED light: Illuminates your cut line.

Common DIY uses

• Curved cuts in plywood: Arches, circles, and decorative shapes for shelves, garden signs, and crafts.
• Cutouts in countertops and cabinets: Sink openings, vents, and access panels—start with a drilled pilot hole or plunge cut carefully.
• Flooring and trim adjustments: Undercutting door jambs with a flush-cut blade or notching base cabinets for pipes.
• Plastics and PVC: Cutting pipe or acrylic panels with a fine-tooth blade.
• Light metal work: Trimming sheet metal, aluminum, or thin steel with a high-TPI bi-metal blade (go slow and use lubrication).
• Laminate: Cutting laminate countertops or flooring with a fine, down-cut (reverse-tooth) blade to reduce chipping.
• Occasional tile cuts: Using a carbide-grit blade for small notches in ceramic (slow and limited—tile saws are better for long cuts).

Types and key features

• Corded vs. cordless

  • Corded models provide steady power for long sessions.
  • Cordless models add convenience and are strong enough for most home projects, especially with brushless motors and modern batteries.

• Handle styles

  • Top-handle (D-handle): Common and easy to control for most users.
  • Barrel-grip: Lower profile with a grip near the centerline for precise control; favored by some for detailed work.

• Orbital action

  • Adjustable settings (0–3 or 0–4). Use higher settings for fast, rough cuts in wood; 0 (straight) for metals, plastics, and cleaner finishes.

• Base/shoe quality

  • A rigid, flat shoe resists flex and keeps cuts square. A splinter guard insert helps reduce tear-out in plywood and laminates.

• Other features

  • Tool-free blade clamp: Saves time.
  • Dust blower or vacuum port: Improves visibility.
  • LED light: Helps you follow the line.
  • Guide compatibility: Some accept rip fences or track guides for straighter cuts.

Blade basics (what really matters)

• Shank type: Most modern saws use T-shank blades. U-shank is older. Buy blades to match your saw.
• Material:
  • HCS (high carbon steel): Flexible and good for softwood.
  • HSS (high speed steel): Harder, better heat resistance for plastics and thin metal.
  • Bi-metal: Durable, good for wood with nails and metals.
  • Carbide-tipped or carbide-grit: For abrasive materials (cement board, fiber cement, ceramic, cast iron).
• Tooth count (TPI):
  • Lower TPI (6–10): Faster, rougher cuts in wood.
  • Medium (10–14): General purpose in wood and plastics.
  • High (18–32): Metals and thin stock.
• Tooth direction:
  • Up-cut (standard): Teeth point up; can splinter the top surface.
  • Down-cut (reverse-tooth): Teeth point down; leaves cleaner top surfaces on plywood/laminate but pushes dust into the cut and requires slower feed.
  • Progressive TPI: Smooth starts, balanced speed and finish.

How to choose a saber saw

• If you mostly cut plywood, trim, and make occasional cutouts: a mid-range cordless model with variable speed, orbital action, and tool-free blade change will serve you well.
• For shop use with frequent cutting: consider a corded or high-output cordless saw with a rigid shoe, low vibration, and barrel-grip option for precision.
• If you’ll cut laminate or veneered plywood often: look for down-cut blades, a splinter guard, and good dust control.
• If you’ll cut metals periodically: choose a saw with precise speed control and use bi-metal high-TPI blades.

Tips for better results

• Match the blade to the material. A fine-tooth metal blade on wood will burn and wander; a coarse wood blade on metal will chatter and dull quickly.
• Clamp and support your work. Keep the shoe flat on the surface. Overhanging pieces vibrate and splinter.
• Use orbital settings wisely. Higher orbital for fast wood cuts; 0 for metals, plastics, and clean finishes.
• Prevent tear-out. Use down-cut blades for laminates, add painter’s tape along the cut line, or use a splinter guard insert.
• Start right. For interior cutouts, drill a 3/8–1/2 inch pilot hole to start the blade, or plunge carefully by tipping the saw forward, then easing the blade in.
• Let the blade do the work. Keep a steady feed; forcing the saw causes blade deflection and angled cuts.
• Tight curves. Use a narrow, scroll-type blade and make relief cuts. Don’t force a big blade around a sharp radius.
• Follow the line. Use the tool’s guide notch, a straightedge, or a clamped fence for straight cuts.

Maintenance and safety

• Change dull blades. Dull blades burn wood, wander, and overheat.
• Keep the shoe square. Check bevel settings; tighten the bevel lock before cutting.
• Clean and inspect. Blow out dust, check the blade roller/guide for wear, and keep the clamp mechanism clean.
• Battery care (cordless): Store batteries at moderate charge and temperature.
• Safety gear: Wear eye protection and hearing protection. Tie back hair and avoid loose clothing.
• Power off to change blades: Unplug or remove the battery before blade changes or adjustments.
• Mind the cut path: Make sure nothing (cords, hands, sawhorses) is under the blade.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Using the wrong blade (e.g., coarse wood blade on metal).
• Forcing the saw through a curve, causing the blade to bend and the cut to angle.
• Cutting unsupported stock, which vibrates and tears out.
• Using orbital action on metal, which overheats and roughens the cut.
• Skipping a pilot hole for interior cutouts and losing control on a plunge.
• Bevels drifting because the bevel lock wasn’t tightened or the shoe wasn’t flat on the work.

Related terms

• Jigsaw (modern synonym for saber saw)
• Reciprocating saw (Sawzall): Larger tool with longer strokes for demolition, not detailed cuts.
• Scroll saw: Bench-top tool for intricate, fine cuts in thin material.
• Oscillating multi-tool: Good for plunge and flush cuts in tight spots.
• Coping saw: Manual version for fine curves in trim work.

Practical examples

• Cutting a sink opening in laminate countertop: Tape the cut line, drill pilot holes at the corners, use a down-cut blade, set orbital to 0, and cut slowly with the shoe flat. Support the cutout so it doesn’t break loose at the end.
• Shaping a curved shelf: Trace your curve, use a narrow wood blade with light orbital action, make relief cuts to remove waste, then sand to the line.
• Trimming a metal register opening: Clamp the sheet, use a 20–24 TPI bi-metal blade, speed low, orbital off, and apply cutting oil for a smoother edge.
• Notching a cabinet back for plumbing: Mark the notch, drill a start hole, use a medium-TPI wood/plastic blade, and keep the shoe flat for a clean cut.

A saber saw’s mix of control, blade variety, and compact size makes it a handy choice for many household cuts—especially whenever a curve, a cutout, or a delicate surface calls for accuracy and care.