Router

What is a router?

A woodworking router is a power tool that spins a bit at very high speed to remove material with precision. By swapping bits and setting the depth, you can shape decorative edges, cut grooves and slots, hollow recesses, and accurately trim pieces to a pattern. Routers are used handheld or mounted upside down in a router table for added control. Not to be confused with a Wi‑Fi router, this tool is all about shaping wood cleanly and consistently.

Common DIY uses and applications

Routers show up in many home projects:

• Edge profiles: Round-overs, bevels (chamfers), coves, ogees, and beading on shelves, countertops, stair treads, and furniture parts.
• Joinery: Dadoes (grooves across the grain) for shelves, rabbets (L-shaped recesses) for picture frames and cabinet backs, and mortises with the right jigs.
• Flush trimming: Trim laminate, veneer, or solid wood edging flush with a substrate using a bearing-guided flush-trim bit.
• Template or pattern routing: Copy a shape from a template to duplicate parts like chair arms or curved shelves.
• Hardware recesses: Hinge mortises, strike plates, and inlays using guides or templates.
• Sign making and decorative work: V-groove lettering and fluting with specialty bits.

Types of routers

Routers vary in size, base style, and features:

• Fixed-base routers: The motor locks at a set depth. Great for edge profiling and router table use. Stable and easy to control.
• Plunge routers: Spring-loaded base lets you start above the work and plunge to depth. Best for mortises, stopped dadoes, and inlays.
• Trim/compact routers: Smaller, lighter tools (often 1–1.25 HP) for laminate work, light edge profiles, and on-site tasks. Handy for one-handed operation.
• Combo kits: One motor with both fixed and plunge bases for flexibility.
• Router tables: A standard router mounted upside down with a fence and accessories. Improves control for small parts, repeat cuts, and larger bits.
• CNC routers: Computer-controlled machines for precise, repeatable cuts and 3D work. Useful for advanced users and small shops.

Key specs to notice:

• Collet size: Commonly 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. 1/2 inch shanks are stronger and vibrate less. Many mid/large routers include both collets.
• Power: Compact routers around 1–1.25 HP; mid-size 1.75–2.25 HP; full-size 2.25–3+ HP for heavy cuts and large bits.
• Speed control: Variable speed helps match RPM to bit diameter and material.
• Soft start and electronic feedback: Smooth startup and steady speed under load improve cut quality.

Router bits (the cutters)

The bit you choose defines the cut:

• Straight bits: Grooves, dadoes, and mortises.
• Flush-trim and pattern bits: Bearing-guided; copy a template or trim edges flush. Available with top or bottom bearings.
• Round-over and chamfer: Soften or bevel edges.
• Rabbet bits: Cut L-shaped recesses; often include interchangeable bearings to change width.
• Cove and ogee: Decorative profiles.
• V-groove and core box: Lettering, flutes, and decorative lines.
• Dovetail bits: Used with dovetail jigs for drawer joinery.

Tips for bits:

• Choose carbide-tipped bits for longer life; high-speed steel dulls faster.
• Keep bits clean; resin buildup causes burning and chatter.
• Store bits so edges don’t touch each other.

How to choose a router

Match the tool to your projects:

• Mostly edge work and trim? A compact router is light and convenient.
• Cabinetry and joinery? A 2–2.25 HP router with both bases covers most tasks.
• Frequent table use or large bits? Consider a 2.25–3+ HP router with above-table height adjustment.

Features that help:

• Clear base and good lighting (LEDs) for visibility.
• Fine depth adjustment (micro-adjust) for consistent results.
• Comfortable grips and a stable base for control.
• Dust collection port to keep the line of sight clear and reduce cleanup.

How to use a router safely and effectively

Safety and technique matter with a fast-spinning cutter:

• PPE: Wear eye and hearing protection; use a dust mask or respirator for MDF and hardwoods.
• Secure the work: Clamp your piece or use a non-slip mat. Don’t chase a moving board.
• Set the depth in stages: Take multiple light passes. For many cuts, 1/8 inch (3 mm) per pass is a good starting point.
• Feed direction: With a handheld router, travel around the outside of a workpiece in a counterclockwise direction. For inside cutouts, travel clockwise. On a router table, feed right to left against the bit rotation.
• Prevent tear-out: Use blue tape as a sacrificial layer, score the line with a knife, use backer boards, or make a light "climb cut" only as a final skim pass while maintaining a firm grip.
• Bit speed: Larger diameter bits need slower RPM. Follow the bit maker’s chart; slow down for bits over 1 inch and for dense hardwoods.
• Collet care: Insert the bit fully, then pull it back about 1/16 inch before tightening so it’s not bottomed out. Tighten firmly.
• Test cuts: Make a sample cut on scrap to confirm depth and fence settings.

Maintenance

Keep your router and bits in good shape:

• Clean bits and collet: Remove pitch with a dedicated cleaner or mineral spirits. Dry thoroughly. Keep collets clean and dry (avoid oil inside the collet).
• Check brushes and cords: On brush-type motors, replace worn brushes. Inspect power cords and bases for damage.
• Lubricate moving parts lightly: Follow the manual for plunge posts and height mechanisms.
• Don’t store bits in the collet: Loosen after use to avoid seizing and spring tension fatigue.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Feeding the wrong way: If the router wants to race ahead, you’re likely climb-cutting. Reverse your direction.
• Taking too much in one pass: Leads to burning, chatter, and loss of control. Make multiple passes.
• Using a dull or dirty bit: Causes burning and tear-out. Clean or replace.
• Wrong speed for the bit: High RPM with big bits is unsafe and leaves a poor finish.
• Poor workholding: Unclamped work is dangerous and imprecise.
• Skipping dust control and PPE: Chips fly fast; protect your eyes, ears, and lungs.

Related terms

• Router table: A table that holds the router upside down with a fence.
• Collet: The clamping sleeve that holds the bit.
• Fence/edge guide: Guides the router for straight cuts.
• Template/jig: Helps repeat shapes or joinery accurately.
• Dado, rabbet, mortise, tenon: Common joints cut with a router.

Practical examples

• Round a tabletop: Fit a 3/8 inch round-over bit, set depth so the bearing rides the edge, and make two light passes.
• Cut shelves into a bookcase: Mark dado locations, clamp a straightedge as a guide, and make several passes with a straight bit to full depth.
• Flush-trim edge banding: Use a flush-trim bit with a bearing to bring wood edging level with plywood sides.
• Hinge mortises: With a hinge template and a straight bit, plunge to thickness and make clean, repeatable recesses.
• Make picture frames: Use a rabbet bit on the back for glass and artwork; add an ogee profile on the front for decoration.
• Template-copy curved parts: Rough-cut with a jigsaw, attach a template, then use a pattern bit to match the shape exactly.

A router rewards careful setup and steady technique. With the right bit and passes, you’ll get clean edges, accurate joints, and repeatable results across many home projects.