Reciprocating saw

What Is a Reciprocating Saw?

A reciprocating saw is a handheld power saw that moves a straight blade back and forth in a rapid stroke. Think of it as a powered hacksaw you can steer through wood, metal, plastic, and more. It shines in situations where other saws won’t fit or can’t start a cut easily, such as inside walls, under sinks, near floors, and around fasteners. Many people call it a “Sawzall,” which is a brand name often used as a generic nickname.

How It Works

A motor drives a crank that pushes and pulls the blade in a straight line (the reciprocating motion). Key parts and features include:

• Trigger and variable speed: Light pressure for slow starts, full squeeze for faster cutting.
• Stroke length and strokes per minute (SPM): Longer strokes remove more material per cycle; higher SPM increases cutting speed.
• Blade clamp: Tool‑free clamps make blade changes quick.
• Shoe (base): The metal foot rests on the work and stabilizes the saw; many shoes pivot and adjust for better control and longer blade life.
• Orbital action (on some models): Adds a slight oval path to the blade for faster wood cutting.
• Anti‑vibration and rubber grips: Reduce fatigue during long cuts.

Common DIY Uses

Reciprocating saws are a go‑to for rough cutting and removal tasks, including:

• Demolition: Cutting out wall studs, roof decking, sheathing, and nailed assemblies.
• Plumbing: Trimming PVC, ABS, copper, or steel pipe in tight spaces.
• Electrical and HVAC: Cutting openings for vents and access, trimming conduit.
• Windows and doors: Removing old jambs, sashes, and fasteners without full disassembly.
• Decks and fences: Cutting bolts, lag screws, and posts; freeing up rusted hardware.
• Landscaping: Pruning branches and roots near fences or foundations (with a pruning blade).
• Remodeling cuts: Flush‑cutting protruding nails, screws, and pipe; plunge cuts in drywall or plywood to start an opening.

Types and Variations

Reciprocating saws come in several styles to fit different tasks and preferences:

• Corded: Steady power and usually lower cost. Great for long demolition sessions where an outlet is available.
• Cordless: Runs on rechargeable batteries. More freedom to work on ladders, outdoors, or where power is unavailable. Brushless motors offer better runtime and durability.
• Full‑size two‑hand models: Most common. Best control and cutting capacity.
• Compact/one‑hand models: Shorter and lighter for overhead work, tight spaces, and quick cuts. Not ideal for heavy demolition.
• Stroke length: About 1 to 1‑1/4 inches is common. Longer strokes cut faster in wood; shorter strokes can feel smoother and more controllable in metal.
• Orbital action: Speeds up cuts in wood and demolition but should be off for metal and plastics to reduce chatter and heat.

Blade Types (choose based on material)

• Wood/demolition: Fewer teeth per inch (TPI 5–8) with aggressive gullets clear chips fast, even through nails.
• Metal: Higher TPI (14–24) for thin metals; 10–14 TPI for thicker stock. Bi‑metal and carbide tipped last longer on nail‑embedded wood or steel.
• Pruning: Coarse, sharp teeth spaced widely for green wood and roots.
• Carbide grit or diamond: For cast iron, fiberglass, or masonry backer board (slow but steady).
• Specialty flush‑cut: Flexible back for trimming protrusions close to a surface.

How to Choose the Right Saw

Consider these points before buying or renting:

• Power and speed: For demolition, look for a robust motor and variable speed with a longer stroke length.
• Vibration control: Less vibration means smoother cuts and less fatigue.
• Tool‑free blade change: Saves time switching between wood and metal blades.
• Adjustable/pivoting shoe: Extends blade life and improves stability on awkward cuts.
• Weight and balance: Try holding it with the battery installed; aim for a secure two‑hand grip and comfortable reach to the trigger.
• Battery platform (cordless): Sticking with one brand’s batteries can reduce costs across your tools.
• Helpful extras: LED light, rafter hook, and a case or bag for blades.

Safe, Effective Use

• Mark the cut and support the work. Clamp loose pieces so they don’t vibrate or pinch the blade.
• Check before you cut. Use a stud/scan tool and open a small inspection area to avoid hidden wires, pipes, or ducts.
• Use the shoe. Keep it pressed to the work to reduce vibration and keep the blade from bucking.
• Start slow, then speed up. Let the blade bite before ramping up to full speed.
• Choose the proper blade and TPI. Switch blades for different materials; don’t push a wood blade through steel nails.
• For metal, add a few drops of cutting oil to reduce heat and extend blade life.
• Keep two hands on the tool for control, unless you’re using a compact one‑hand model for light cuts.
• Wear PPE: safety glasses, hearing protection, work gloves, and a dust mask in dusty materials.
• Isolate utilities: Shut off water or power when cutting near plumbing and electrical lines.

Maintenance Basics

• Inspect and replace dull or bent blades—they cut slowly and heat up.
• Keep the shoe and blade clamp clean; blow out dust from vents with dry air.
• Check cords for damage or batteries for secure fit and proper charging.
• Lightly wipe blades with oil to prevent rust; store saw and blades in a dry case.
• For cordless tools, store batteries at moderate charge and temperature.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Forcing the cut: Let the blade do the work. Excess pressure bends blades and overheats teeth.
• Using the wrong blade: TPI and material matter. The wrong blade slows you down and wears out quickly.
• Ignoring the shoe: Floating the saw in mid‑air causes chatter and kickback.
• Cutting blind cavities: Striking a pipe or cable can be dangerous and costly.
• Using a blade that’s too short: The shoe can hit the work and the stroke may bottom out.
• Leaving orbital action on for metal or plastic: It increases vibration and heat.

Related Terms

• Sawzall: Brand name commonly used to mean reciprocating saw.
• Jigsaw: Another reciprocating tool with a smaller shoe and narrow blade for curved cuts.
• Oscillating multi‑tool: Good for precise plunge and flush cuts in tight spots, but slower.
• Circular saw: Fast straight cuts in sheet goods and lumber, not for tight spaces or plunge cuts into walls.
• Hacksaw: Manual frame saw for small metal cuts; the reciprocating saw is its powered counterpart.

Practical Examples

• Trim a copper drain under a sink: Use a 14–18 TPI bi‑metal blade, slow speed to start, shoe braced on the pipe, then steadily increase speed.
• Remove an old door jamb: Slip a demolition blade between jamb and studs to cut nails, then pry the frame free.
• Prune a 3‑inch limb: Fit a pruning blade, support the branch, and let the saw cut on the pull stroke while the shoe rests on the bark.
• Free a rusted deck screw: Use a metal blade to cut the screw shank between the board and joist, then lift the board off.
• Resize an HVAC opening: Plunge‑cut drywall with a wood blade, keeping the shoe pressed and speed moderate for control.