Recessed lighting

What is recessed lighting?

Recessed lighting is a type of ceiling light set into the ceiling rather than hanging below it. Only a thin trim ring and the opening are visible; the housing, wiring, and other parts are hidden. This creates a clean look and can make rooms feel bigger by removing visual clutter. Recessed fixtures, often called can lights or downlights, focus light downward or at a slight angle for general, task, or accent lighting.

A recessed fixture usually has three main parts:
- Housing: The metal can or LED body that sits inside the ceiling and holds wiring connections.
- Trim: The visible ring and interior surface that shape and finish the light opening.
- Lamp or LED module: The light source, either a separate bulb or an integrated LED unit.

Common uses and applications

Recessed lighting fits a wide range of rooms and tasks:
- Kitchens: Even, shadow-free task lighting over counters and islands.
- Living rooms: General lighting that does not compete with decor or ceiling fans.
- Hallways and entries: Low-profile illumination without fixtures protruding into tight spaces.
- Bathrooms: Wet-rated trims in showers and over vanities.
- Home offices: Focused light that reduces glare on screens when aimed correctly.
- Basements and low ceilings: Keeps headroom while brightening large areas.
- Accent lighting: Highlight artwork, fireplaces, or textured walls with directional trims.

Types and variations

Recessed lighting covers several fixture types and options. Choosing the right combination makes a big difference in performance and comfort.

• Housing types:

  • New-construction housings: Attached to framing before drywall goes up. They nail or screw to joists and offer sturdy placement.
  • Remodel housings: Designed to slip into an existing ceiling opening and clamp to the drywall. Useful for upgrades without opening large areas.
  • Ultra-thin wafer lights: Slim LED panels that install with spring clips and a remote junction box. Great where you cannot fit a traditional can.

• Insulation and air control:

  • IC-rated: Safe to contact ceiling insulation without overheating. Choose IC-rated for most homes with insulated ceilings.
  • Non-IC: Must be kept clear of insulation. Use only where no insulation is present.
  • Airtight (AT): Reduces drafts and energy loss by sealing the housing. IC-AT is common in conditioned spaces.

• Sizes and beam control:

  • Common diameters: 4-inch, 5-inch, and 6-inch. Smaller sizes are more discreet and precise; larger sizes cover broader areas.
  • Trims: Baffle (reduces glare), reflector (maximizes brightness), wall-wash (spreads light across a wall), gimbal or eyeball (aimable), shower trim (wet-rated with a lens), and adjustable sloped-ceiling trims.

• Light source:

  • LED retrofit kits: Convert existing cans by inserting an LED module with a trim. They save energy and update the look in minutes.
  • Integrated LED housings: All-in-one units with long-life LEDs and matched optics for consistent output.
  • Bulbed cans: Use screw-in lamps such as BR or PAR types. Less common for new work due to efficiency and dimming advantages of LED modules.

• Light quality and control:

  • Color temperature: Warm 2700 K for living areas, 3000 K for kitchens and baths, 3500-4000 K for task-focused spaces. Keep a single color temperature within the same room.
  • CRI (color rendering index): Aim for 90-plus to show colors accurately, helpful in kitchens and baths.
  • Dimming: Pair LED fixtures with compatible dimmers (check manufacturer lists) to avoid flicker or limited dimming range.

Tips for selection and layout

A little planning avoids glare, shadowing, and patchy brightness.

• Match size to task:

  • 4-inch for accenting and tight spacing over counters.
  • 5-inch for balanced general lighting.
  • 6-inch for broad coverage in larger rooms or higher ceilings.

• Plan spacing and placement:

  • Start 2 to 3 feet off walls to avoid bright scallops and to wash walls evenly.
  • Typical spacing: 4 to 5 feet for 4-inch fixtures, 6 to 8 feet for 6-inch fixtures. Adjust based on brightness, beam angle, and ceiling height.
  • Center task lights over the front edge of counters or sinks to avoid casting shadows from your body.
  • Group lights into zones (for example, island, perimeter, sink) with separate switches or dimmers.

• Choose trims thoughtfully:

  • Baffle trims in living areas reduce glare.
  • Reflector trims in high ceilings deliver more punch.
  • Gimbal or eyeball trims aim light at art or backsplashes without moving the whole fixture.
  • Shower trims for wet locations and above tubs.

• Pick the right brightness:

  • Look at lumens, not watts. A typical 4-inch LED module delivers 600 to 900 lumens; many 6-inch modules produce 800 to 1200 lumens.
  • Combine dimming with adequate baseline brightness. It is easier to dim a bright circuit than to fix a dim space.

• Safety and code basics:

  • Turn off power at the breaker and verify with a non-contact tester before working.
  • Use IC-rated and airtight fixtures where ceilings are insulated or part of the building envelope.
  • Follow local electrical codes, obtain permits if required, and consider hiring a licensed electrician for wiring or if you are unsure.

Installation and maintenance overview

Installation varies by housing type. New-construction housings mount to framing before drywall, while remodel cans and wafer lights fit into cutouts in finished ceilings. Keep clear of joists, ducts, and plumbing when laying out locations. Use the manufacturer’s template to cut clean openings and secure the junction box covers after making wire connections with listed connectors.

Maintenance is minimal with LEDs. Periodically dust or vacuum the trims to prevent heat buildup and maintain brightness. For airtight housings, check gaskets if you notice drafts. If a dimming issue appears after a switch upgrade, confirm the dimmer and modules are listed as compatible.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Mixing color temperatures in the same room, which looks mismatched.
• Using non-IC housings near insulation, creating a fire risk and forcing clearance boxes.
• Over-lighting with too many fixtures, which raises glare and cost. Plan spacing and use dimming.
• Skipping airtight housings in conditioned spaces, leading to drafts and energy loss.
• Aiming adjustable trims directly into eyes when seated, causing discomfort. Aim toward surfaces.
• Ignoring dimmer compatibility for LED fixtures, which can cause flicker or dropout.

Related terms

• Downlight: Another name for a recessed fixture aimed downward.
• Can light: Common nickname for traditional recessed housings.
• Wafer light: Ultra-thin recessed-style LED with a remote junction box.
• IC-rated and airtight (AT): Safety and energy performance designations.
• Retrofit kit: LED module and trim that upgrades an existing can.
• Color temperature and CRI: Measures of light appearance and quality.

Practical examples

• Kitchen upgrade: Replace older 6-inch incandescent cans with LED retrofit trims at 2700 to 3000 K, add a separate dimmer for island pendants, and place 4-inch accents to highlight the backsplash.
• Bathroom lighting: Install IC-AT housings with shower-rated trims above the tub and a pair of 4-inch gimbal trims to flank the vanity mirror, all on a compatible LED dimmer.
• Basement finish: Use IC-AT wafer lights on a 6 to 7 foot grid for an 8-foot ceiling, keeping fixtures 2 feet from walls and grouping circuits by zone for flexible control.
• Art wall accent: Aim 4-inch gimbal trims so the beam hits the center of the artwork at a 30-degree angle to reduce glare and shadows.

By understanding fixture types, trim options, and basic layout rules, you can plan lighting that looks clean, feels comfortable, and meets the needs of each room without visual clutter.