Power strip

What is a Power Strip?

A power strip is a compact bar or box with multiple outlets that connects to a single wall receptacle. It expands one outlet into several, so you can plug in multiple low- to moderate-wattage devices at once. Many power strips include a master on/off switch and a resettable circuit breaker to prevent overloads. Some models add surge protection to guard electronics from voltage spikes, while others focus simply on providing more outlets without extra features.

Unlike a surge protector (which looks similar), a basic power strip does not protect against power surges unless it specifically states so. Always check the labeling for terms like "surge protection," a joule rating, and indicator lights if you want protection from spikes.

Common Uses in DIY and Home Improvement

Power strips are used anywhere you need more outlets within a small area:

• Home office: Computers, monitors, printers, desk lamps, and chargers.
• Entertainment center: TVs, streaming boxes, soundbars, and game consoles.
• Workshop or garage: Battery chargers for tools, task lighting, and test equipment (avoid heavy-duty loads like compressors or heaters on a strip).
• Crafting or maker benches: Glue guns, sewing machines, low-watt tools, and LED lighting.
• Temporary setups: Holiday displays or pop-up workstations (use only indoor-rated strips indoors and outdoor-rated strips outdoors).

Types and Variations

Power strips vary widely. Understanding the options helps you pick the right one for your space and devices.

• Basic power strip (no surge protection): Provides multiple outlets and often a resettable breaker. Best for lamps, chargers, and appliances that aren’t sensitive electronics.
• Surge-protecting power strip: Includes components (usually MOVs) that absorb voltage spikes. Look for a joule rating (higher is generally better), a clamping voltage (lower is often better), and an indicator light that shows protection status.
• Smart power strip: Adds Wi‑Fi or app control, energy monitoring, scheduling, or voice assistant compatibility. Some have a "master-controlled" outlet that turns other outlets on/off with a main device.
• USB charging strip: Includes USB-A and/or USB-C ports for phones, tablets, or accessories without needing separate chargers.
• Individually switched outlets: Each outlet has its own switch to cut phantom power or control devices separately.
• Metal-housing strip: Durable, often with mounting flanges, common in shops and garages. Provides better physical protection than many plastic bodies.
• 20-amp power strip: Designed for 20A circuits and outlets (often with a T-shaped neutral slot in North America). Use only if your circuit and receptacle are rated for 20A.
• Outdoor/weather-resistant strip: Gasketed covers, weather-resistant materials, and heavy-duty cords. Use only where the strip’s rating matches the environment.
• Rack-mount and under-cabinet strips: Built for server racks or permanent mounting under benches and cabinets.

How to Choose the Right Power Strip

Match the strip to your devices and location:

• Current and wattage: Most household strips are rated 10–15 amps at 120V in North America or 10–16 amps at 230V in many other regions. Add up the wattage of the devices you’ll plug in and stay under the strip’s and circuit’s ratings. High-watt loads (space heaters, hair dryers, portable A/Cs, microwaves) should go directly into a wall outlet, not a strip.
• Surge protection: For computers, TVs, and audio gear, choose a surge-protecting strip. Look for:
  • Joule rating: A measure of how much surge energy it can absorb. For home office/AV, 1000–3000+ joules is common.
  • Indicator lights: One for protection status and one for grounding. If the protection light goes off, replace the strip.
• Cord length and gauge: Pick a length that reaches without stretching. Thicker cords (lower AWG number, such as 14 AWG or 12 AWG) handle more current with less voltage drop and are sturdier for shop use.
• Number and spacing of outlets: Widely spaced outlets help fit bulky plugs and power bricks.
• Mounting and orientation: Look for keyhole slots, metal flanges, or right-angle plugs for tight spaces. Rotating outlets can ease cable management.
• Safety certifications: UL, ETL, or CSA listings show the product was tested against recognized safety standards.
• Environment rating: Indoor vs. outdoor. Keep indoor strips away from moisture and dust; use weather-resistant models only where needed.

Safe Use and Maintenance Tips

• Avoid daisy-chaining: Do not plug a power strip into another strip or into an extension cord. This increases fire risk and often violates electrical codes.
• Heavy loads: Plug heaters, refrigerators, microwaves, air conditioners, and other high-draw appliances directly into a dedicated wall outlet.
• Check the grounding: Use a three-prong plug and grounded receptacle. The surge protection won’t work properly without a good ground.
• Placement: Keep strips off the floor where they can get wet, crushed, or covered by rugs. Mount or elevate them on a wall, bench, or furniture side if possible.
• Heat and ventilation: Don’t cover the strip. Allow airflow around the body and power bricks to prevent overheating.
• Moisture control: Never use an indoor strip in bathrooms, kitchens near sinks, basements with damp floors, or outdoors. Use GFCI-protected outlets for wet areas and outdoor-rated strips outdoors.
• Inspect regularly: Replace the strip if the cord is cracked, the plug is loose, the housing is damaged, or the protection light goes out.
• Lifespan: Surge-protecting strips wear out as they absorb surges. Many people replace them every 3–5 years, or sooner after a major surge or lightning event.
• UPS and power strips: Don’t plug a UPS into a power strip, and don’t plug power strips into the output of most UPS units unless the manufacturer allows it.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Confusing basic strips with surge protectors; if it doesn’t list surge features, it’s not protecting against spikes.
• Overloading the strip with too many or high-watt devices.
• Using a strip in wet or outdoor areas without the proper rating.
• Running cords under carpets or doorways where heat builds or insulation wears.
• Mounting using screws that pierce the cord or housing; use built-in keyholes or brackets.
• Ignoring indicator lights; a dark protection light often means the surge protection is spent.

Related Terms

• Surge protector: A power strip that includes components to absorb voltage spikes.
• Extension cord: A single-outlet cord to extend reach; not the same as a multi-outlet strip.
• GFCI (Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter): A safety device that cuts power when it detects ground faults, required in wet areas.
• UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply): Provides backup power and conditioning; used for computers and network gear.
• Circuit breaker/overload protection: Built into many strips to cut power if too much current flows.

Practical Examples

• Home office: Choose a surge-protecting strip with 6–10 outlets, 1500–3000 joules, widely spaced sockets, and a 10–12 ft 14 AWG cord. Mount it under the desk, and route cables with clips to avoid a floor tangle.
• Workshop bench: Pick a metal-housing strip with a resettable breaker, widely spaced outlets for chargers and lights, and mounting flanges. Keep heavy loads like dust collectors on dedicated outlets.
• TV and gaming setup: Use a surge-protecting strip with a coax or Ethernet protection module if available, and enough spacing for power bricks. Label each plug for easier troubleshooting.
• Apartment with limited outlets: A basic strip can expand a single outlet for lamps and chargers, but use a separate surge-protecting strip for your laptop and modem/router.

A well-chosen power strip makes outlet management cleaner and safer. Match the strip to your devices, confirm the ratings and protection features, and install it where it can stay cool, dry, and accessible.