Pipe Cutter: Types, Uses, and How to Choose One

What is a Pipe Cutter?

A pipe cutter is a tool designed to make clean, square cuts in plumbing pipe. Instead of sawing through the material, it pinches and scores the pipe with a sharp wheel or blade as you rotate or squeeze the tool. The result is a straighter cut with fewer burrs, which helps fittings seal properly and reduces the time spent cleaning up edges. Different cutters are made for different materials and pipe sizes, so matching the tool to the job matters.

Where You’ll Use a Pipe Cutter at Home

Homeowners and DIYers reach for a pipe cutter during common plumbing projects, including:

Replacing a shutoff valve on copper supply lines
Cutting PVC or CPVC for sprinkler systems and drain, waste, and vent (DWV) piping
Trimming copper pipe for soldered or push-to-connect fittings
Cutting galvanized steel pipe during remodels
Preparing PEX and aluminum tubing (with dedicated cutters)
Repairing or altering cast iron soil stacks (usually a chain-style cutter)

If you need a straight, leak-free joint, a proper pipe cutter often beats a saw for speed and cut quality.

Common Types of Pipe Cutters

Choosing the right style starts with the pipe material and space you have to work.

Tubing cutter (rotary wheel): The go-to for copper, brass, and thin-wall aluminum tubing. It clamps around the pipe; you tighten the knob slightly and rotate around the pipe, tightening a bit more every few turns until it separates. Great for plumbing under sinks and in basements. Many include a fold-out reamer to remove the inner burr.
Close-quarter or mini tubing cutter: A compact version of the rotary cutter for tight spaces, like behind walls or near joists. It cuts the same materials as a standard tubing cutter but has a smaller capacity and shorter swing radius.
PVC and CPVC cutters (ratcheting or scissor): These use a sharp, guillotine-style blade to shear plastic pipe. Scissor-style works for smaller diameters and thin-wall tubing. Ratcheting cutters provide more leverage and cleaner cuts on larger schedule 40 pipe. Some models are labeled for PEX as well, but many pros prefer a dedicated PEX cutter.
PEX cutters: A small, single-stroke shear designed to produce a square cut on flexible PEX tubing. A clean, square end helps fittings seat and seal.
Steel pipe cutters (heavy-duty rotary): Similar to tubing cutters but stronger and larger, with multiple cutting wheels or a single heavy wheel. Used on black iron and galvanized steel pipe. Often requires more clearance and strength.
Cast iron soil pipe cutter (chain snap cutter): A ratcheting handle tensions a chain with multiple cutting wheels around the pipe. With gradual tension, the pipe snaps cleanly. Common for old cast iron stacks; best operated with care and proper support.
Powered and auto-feed cutters: Battery or AC-powered cutters spin automatically and gradually feed the wheel into the pipe. They speed up repeat cuts, especially on copper in larger projects.

How to Choose the Right Pipe Cutter

Match the cutter to the material and the space you have.

Material compatibility: Verify the cutter is rated for copper, PVC, CPVC, PEX, steel, or cast iron as needed. A copper tubing cutter will not hold up on steel, and a PVC shear will crush metal.
Pipe diameter: Check minimum and maximum capacity. Mini cutters fit in tight spots but may not handle larger pipe. For PVC, ensure the cutter can handle the schedule and diameter.
Clearance: Rotary cutters need room to rotate around the pipe. In tight cavities, a mini tubing cutter or a compact ratcheting PVC cutter helps.
Cut quality and speed: Rotary cutters excel at straight, burr-minimized cuts on metal. Ratcheting shears are fast for plastic. If you will solder copper, prioritize a clean, square cut.
Durability and serviceability: Look for replaceable cutting wheels or blades, solid frames, smooth-threaded adjustment knobs, and a firm ratchet mechanism. Name-brand wheels and blades are easier to source.
Comfort and safety: Non-slip grips, clear scale markings, and stable locking features reduce frustration and mishaps.

How to Use a Pipe Cutter

The exact steps depend on the style, but here are the basics for two common scenarios.

Copper with a tubing cutter

Depressurize and drain the line. Open a nearby faucet to relieve pressure and reduce water in the pipe.
Measure and mark the cut line with a fine marker or scribe.
Position the cutter so the wheel aligns with your mark.
Tighten the knob until the wheel makes firm contact. Do not over-tighten.
Rotate the cutter around the pipe 1–2 full turns.
Tighten the knob slightly and repeat rotating. Continue the tighten-then-rotate sequence until the pipe separates.
Deburr the inside and outside of the cut end using the tool’s reamer or a deburring tool. This improves flow and helps fittings seat.
Wipe the pipe clean; proceed with soldering, compression, or push-to-connect fittings.

PVC with a ratcheting cutter

Mark the cut squarely using a pipe wrap or square for accuracy.
Open the cutter, position the blade on your mark, and align the pipe at 90 degrees.
Squeeze the handle to ratchet the blade through the pipe. Keep steady pressure and maintain alignment.
Remove any small burrs with a deburring tool or utility knife. For solvent welding, dry-fit, then prime and cement per the cement manufacturer’s instructions.

Safety tips:
- Wear eye protection to guard against metal or plastic shavings.
- Support the pipe to prevent pinching or cracking.
- Never cut a pressurized line.
- For cast iron, secure the pipe and use two hands; the snap is sudden.

Maintenance and Care

Replace dull wheels and blades promptly. Dull cutters crush and flare pipe, leading to leaks.
Keep threads and sliding surfaces clean and lightly oiled to prevent galling and rust.
Wipe off PVC shavings and primer or cement residue after use.
Store cutters dry; protect cutting edges from knocks.
Keep a spare cutting wheel or blade in your toolbox for uninterrupted work.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Using the wrong cutter for the material, such as a copper cutter on steel or a PVC shear on cast iron.
Over-tightening a tubing cutter, which can spiral the cut or deform the pipe.
Skipping deburring, which can damage o-rings in push-to-connect fittings or disrupt solder flow.
Cutting without supporting the pipe, causing uneven cuts or cracks in plastic.
Trying to use a mini cutter where a full-size cutter fits; full-size often cuts straighter and faster.
Reusing a chipped or rusty cutting wheel; swap it out for consistent results.

Related Terms

Deburring tool or reamer: Removes sharp edges after cutting.
Flaring tool: Forms a flare on tubing for flare fittings.
Compression fitting: Mechanical fitting for joining copper without soldering.
Push-to-connect fitting: Quick-fit connector for copper, PEX, and CPVC.
PEX cutter: Shear designed for flexible PEX tubing.
Hacksaw and miter box: Saw-based alternative when space or cost dictates.
Pipe threader and die: Cuts threads on steel pipe ends.

Practical Examples

Replace a shutoff valve on a copper line: Use a tubing cutter to remove the old valve section, deburr, then install a push-to-connect stop valve for a quick upgrade.
Add a sprinkler zone in PVC: Measure runs, cut with a ratcheting cutter for square ends, dry-fit, then prime and cement joints for leak-free operation.
Shorten a vanity drain: Trim the PVC trap arm with a scissor-style cutter, deburr, and reassemble with the correct slope.
Swap a section of galvanized pipe: Use a heavy-duty rotary cutter to make a clean cut, then transition to PEX or copper with appropriate adapters.

With the right pipe cutter and a few careful steps, you can make clean, square cuts that set up your plumbing project for a long-lasting, leak-free finish.