Jigsaw

A jigsaw is a handheld power saw that drives a small blade up and down to cut wood, metal, plastic, laminate, and even tile (with the right blade). Because the blade is narrow and easy to steer, it excels at curves, cutouts, and detailed shapes. Many DIYers reach for a jigsaw to make sink openings, trim flooring around obstacles, or follow a template without bulky setup.

How a Jigsaw Works

Inside the tool, a motor moves a shaft in a rapid, vertical motion—measured in strokes per minute (SPM). The blade clamps into this shaft and cuts on the upstroke for most standard blades. Some models add “orbital action,” which tilts the blade slightly forward on the upstroke for faster, rougher cutting in wood. The base (also called the shoe) rests on the workpiece and can usually tilt for bevel cuts.

Key parts:
- Motor and speed control (variable speed dial or trigger)
- Blade clamp (often tool-free)
- Base/shoe (sometimes with a removable no-mar cover)
- Orbital control lever (on models with orbital action)
- Guide roller that supports the blade
- Dust blower or vacuum port
- LED work light (on many newer models)

Common DIY Uses

• Cutting sink or cooktop openings in countertops
• Notching laminate or hardwood flooring around door jambs and vents
• Making curved shelves and decorative cutouts in plywood
• Trimming PVC pipe or plastic panels
• Cutting outlet openings in cabinet backs or wall panels
• Coping inside corners on baseboard (with the right technique and blade)
• Cutting metal flashing, angles, or thin sheet with fine-tooth blades
• Creating relief cuts to follow tight curves

Types and Key Features

• Power source:

  • Corded: Consistent power, often 5–7 amps. Good for longer sessions or thicker stock.
  • Cordless: Great mobility. 18V/20V models handle most DIY tasks; 12V is lighter for light-duty work.

• Grip style:

  • Top-handle (D-handle): Most common and comfortable for general use.
  • Barrel-grip: Lower hand position can improve control on curves; preferred by some for precision.

• Blade action:

  • Straight (no orbital): Cleanest cuts in hardwood, plastics, and metal.
  • Orbital: Faster in softwood; increases tear-out. Use lower or off for clean cuts.

• Speed control: Variable-speed trigger or dial lets you slow down for metal and plastics, speed up for wood.

• Bevel capability: Most shoes tilt 0–45° with detents at common angles. Look for a solid, easy-to-lock mechanism.

• Blade change: Tool-free T-shank clamps are faster and more secure than older U-shank designs.

• Visibility and dust: A built-in dust blower or vacuum port, plus an LED, helps you follow your line.

• Motor type: Brushless motors on some cordless models run cooler, last longer, and improve battery life.

Blades Explained

• Shank style:

  • T-shank: Modern standard; stronger and quick to change.
  • U-shank: Older style; avoid unless your saw requires it.

• Tooth count (TPI = teeth per inch):

  • 6–10 TPI: Fast, rough cuts in softwood.
  • 12–20 TPI: Cleaner wood cuts and general use.
  • 20–32 TPI: Thin metal and very smooth cuts in plastics.

• Tooth direction:

  • Standard (up-cut): Teeth point up; can splinter the top of plywood/laminate.
  • Reverse-tooth (down-cut): Reduces top-side tear-out on laminates and veneers.
  • Clean-cut/specialty: Ground teeth for fine cabinetry and scrollwork.

• Blade materials:

  • HCS (high carbon steel): Wood and softer materials; most flexible but dulls faster.
  • HSS (high speed steel): Better for metal; more heat resistant.
  • Bi-metal: Durable and flexible; good all-rounder for wood and metal.
  • Carbide-grit or carbide-tooth: Abrasive blades for tile, cement board, and fiberglass.

Choose the blade to match both the material and the finish quality you want. A good starter set includes 6–10 TPI wood, 12–20 TPI clean wood/laminate (reverse-tooth), 20–32 TPI metal, and a carbide-grit blade for tile or fiber cement.

Tips for Better Results

• Support the work: Use a sacrificial backer board under plywood to reduce tear-out and prevent vibration.
• Control tear-out: Cut with the good face down when using up-cut blades, or use a reverse-tooth blade and a splinter guard for face-up work.
• Set orbital and speed wisely: Use more orbital and higher speed for fast cuts in softwood; turn orbital off and slow down for hardwood, plastics, laminates, and metal.
• Use a guide for straight cuts: Clamp a straightedge and run the jigsaw’s shoe along it. For long straight cuts, a circular saw may be quicker, but a jigsaw still works for shorter lengths.
• Make relief cuts: For tight curves, saw short slits up to your layout line so waste can break away and the blade won’t bind.
• Plunge cuts: Drill a starter hole big enough for the blade, then insert and start cutting. Advanced users can tilt the saw forward to plunge, but practice on scrap first.
• Bevel control: Verify the shoe is square before 90° cuts. For 45° bevels, make a test cut and adjust if needed.
• Keep the line clear: Use the dust blower or connect a vac so you can see your cut.
• Let the blade work: Don’t force the saw; steady forward pressure gives a straighter, cooler cut and keeps blades from wandering.

Safety and Maintenance

• Wear eye protection; use hearing protection and a dust mask when cutting MDF, cement board, or lots of plywood.
• Unplug or remove the battery before changing blades or adjusting the bevel.
• Keep hands away from the blade path and let the blade stop before setting the tool down.
• Blades get hot; use gloves when changing them after a long cut.
• Check blade squareness: If cuts lean, inspect the guide roller and shoe for wear or looseness.
• Clean dust from vents and the shoe; a quick blast of compressed air helps.
• Replace dull or bent blades promptly. Dull blades burn wood, chip laminate, and wander.
• For cordless models, store batteries at partial charge and avoid extreme heat.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the wrong blade: Low TPI on thin metal or laminate leads to chipping and snags; high TPI on thick softwood cuts slowly and overheats.
• Forcing tight curves: The blade deflects and you end up with a beveled, off-line cut. Make relief cuts or use a scroll blade with a tighter turning radius.
• Ignoring tear-out: Protect the show face with tape, a splinter guard, or a reverse-tooth blade.
• Wrong orbital setting: High orbital in laminate, hardwood, or metal increases chipping and vibration.
• Poor work support: Cutting unsupported panels can pinch the blade or break the last bit of material unexpectedly.
• Cutting metal dry and fast: Slow the speed and use cutting oil to keep the blade cool and lasting longer.

Selecting a Jigsaw

• Choose T-shank compatibility with a tool-free clamp.
• Look for variable speed, at least one orbital setting, and a solid bevel shoe.
• Try the grip in hand; pick top-handle for general use, barrel-grip if you prefer low, precise control.
• Consider LED lighting and a dust blower for visibility.
• For frequent use in thicker stock, a corded 6–7 amp or a brushless 18V model offers strong performance.

Related Tools and Terms

• Reciprocating saw (Sawzall): Larger, demolition-focused cousin; not for fine curves.
• Scroll saw: Benchtop tool for very precise, intricate curves.
• Band saw: Stationary tool for smooth curves in thicker stock.
• Circular saw: Faster straight cuts in sheet goods and lumber.
• Oscillating multi-tool: Handy for plunge cuts in tight spots.
• Hole saw and router: Other ways to make openings, depending on material and edge quality needed.

Practical Examples

• Trace a sink template on laminate countertop, drill a 3/8" starter hole, install a reverse-tooth blade, and follow the line with orbital off and low speed.
• Notch laminate flooring around a vent: Mark the outline, tape the surface, use a fine-tooth wood blade, and cut from the backside for a clean edge.
• Cut a curved plywood shelf: Clamp to a backer, use a 10–12 TPI wood blade, set medium orbital, and sand the edge afterward.
• Trim thin sheet metal flashing: Clamp firmly, choose a 24–32 TPI metal blade, slow the speed, and add a drop of cutting oil for a smoother cut.