Hole punch

What is a hole punch?

A hole punch is a tool that creates clean, round holes by forcing a sharp-edged tube (the punch) through material and into a matching support (the die or anvil). Unlike drilling, which removes material with a rotating bit, punching shears the material in a single motion. Hole punches range from simple paper punches to heavy-duty tools that cut holes in metal electrical boxes, and they’re used across crafts, home repairs, and light fabrication.

Common uses in DIY and home projects

Hole punches show up in many day-to-day tasks:
- Preparing paper for binders, maintenance logs, or project manuals
- Adding holes to leather belts, dog collars, or watch straps
- Making gaskets from rubber, fiber, or cork sheet for plumbing or small engines
- Installing grommets in tarps, outdoor curtains, or canvas covers
- Creating rivet or screw holes in thin sheet metal for HVAC ducts or brackets
- Cutting conduit knockouts in metal enclosures for electrical work
- Upholstery and canvas work where clean, repeatable holes are needed

Types of hole punches

Office paper hole punches

• Single-hole, 2-hole, and 3-hole designs for paper and cardstock
• Adjustable guides help align pages for consistent spacing
• Best for paper up to the rated capacity; heavy stacks require a heavy-duty model

Rotary leather/belt punches

• Handheld pliers with a rotating wheel of different punch sizes
• Ideal for leather, vinyl, fabric-reinforced rubber, and thin plastics
• Often used to adjust belt length or add holes for straps and harnesses

Hollow/arch/gasket punches (drive punches)

• Cylindrical punches used with a mallet on a cutting mat or end-grain wood block
• Common sizes from 1/8 inch up to 1 inch and beyond
• Cut holes in gasket sheet, leather, rubber, felt, foam, and soft plastics
• “Arch punches” have a side opening to clear the slug automatically

Plier-style sheet metal hand punches (Whitney-style)

• Lever-powered pliers that punch small holes (often 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch)
• Used for rivets, screws, or alignment holes in aluminum or thin steel sheet
• Helpful for HVAC, flashing, brackets, and hobby metalwork

Knockout (chassis) punches

• Screw-driven or hydraulic sets used to cut precise holes in metal enclosures
• Common in electrical work for conduit sizes (e.g., 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch trade sizes)
• Require a pilot hole for the draw stud; produce a clean, burr-minimized hole

Grommet and eyelet punch kits

• Include a small cutter to make the hole plus dies to flare and set the grommet
• Used on tarps, sails, banners, and outdoor fabrics
• Ensure the grommet size matches the cutter and material thickness

How to choose the right hole punch

• Match the tool to the material: paper, leather, rubber, fabric, plastic, or metal.
• Check thickness capacity: plier-style and rotary punches have limits; knockout punches list maximum gauge for steel and stainless.
• Size range: choose a tool that covers the hole sizes you need most (e.g., belt holes vs. conduit sizes).
• Throat depth: deeper throats let you punch farther from the edge (useful for paper stacks or sheet metal parts).
• Build quality: hardened steel punches and replaceable dies last longer and cut cleaner.
• Ergonomics and leverage: padded grips and compound levers reduce hand strain; hydraulic knockout drivers save time on larger holes.
• Accessories: look for cutting mats, spare punches/dies, slug catchers, or alignment guides.

How to use safely and get clean results

• Mark the hole location clearly with a pencil, marker, or light center mark. For leather or rubber, an awl makes accurate starts.
• Support the work: use a resilient cutting mat or scrap end-grain wood for hollow punches; back up thin sheet metal to reduce distortion.
• Align square to the work: keep the punch perpendicular so holes are round and edges are uniform.
• Use the right force: squeeze steadily with pliers; strike hollow punches with a firm, controlled mallet blow; tighten knockout punches with a wrench until the slug drops free.
• Lubricate metal cuts: a drop of cutting oil on sheet metal punches and knockout dies reduces effort and improves finish.
• Manage slugs: clear out punched material frequently so it doesn’t jam the tool or mar the next hole.
• Deburr if needed: use a deburring tool, fine file, or sandpaper to smooth edges on metal or thick plastics.
• Wear safety gear: eye protection for all punching tasks; gloves for sheet metal.

Maintenance and care

• Keep punches clean and dry; wipe with a light oil film to prevent rust.
• Sharpen hollow punches: dress the outside bevel lightly with fine emery or a diamond hone; avoid changing the edge angle. Replace if severely worn.
• Replace anvil pads/cutting mats before they become grooved; deep grooves can dent or mis-shape holes.
• Do not twist a punch while it’s embedded; this can chip the cutting edge and egg-shape the hole.
• For knockout sets, inspect draw studs and threads; lubricate before use and store dies in a case to protect cutting edges.

Mistakes to avoid

• Using the wrong tool on the wrong material (e.g., paper punch on plastic, or leather punch on steel)
• Punching too close to an edge, which can tear leather or thin sheet
• Exceeding thickness capacity, leading to poor cuts or broken tools
• Striking hollow punches on a hard metal bench top; always use a resilient backing
• Skipping the pilot hole for knockout punches or using the wrong draw stud size
• Forcing dull punches instead of sharpening or replacing them

Related terms

• Awl: a pointed tool for marking or starting holes in soft materials
• Center punch: creates a dimple in metal to start a drill bit; not for cutting holes
• Hole saw: a drill-powered cylindrical cutter for larger holes in wood, plastic, and metal
• Step bit: a conical drill bit for enlarging holes in metal or plastic
• Reamer: tool for sizing and smoothing an existing hole
• Grommet/Eyelet: metal rings set into holes to reinforce edges
• Die/Anvil: the support that works with the punch to shear the hole cleanly

Real-world examples

• Shortening a leather belt: mark the new hole, rotate the leather punch to the right size (typically 3–4 mm), punch through on a cutting mat, and test fit.
• Adding grommets to a tarp: use the kit’s cutter to make the hole, position the grommet halves, and set them with the provided punch and anvil.
• Making a rubber gasket: choose a hollow punch set, measure bolt circle spacing, punch bolt holes, then cut the outer profile with a utility knife.
• Installing conduit in a junction box: drill a pilot hole for the knockout punch’s draw stud, assemble the dies, tighten with a wrench until the slug releases, deburr lightly, and fit the connector.
• Prepping aluminum for pop rivets: mark locations, use a plier-style hand punch to make 1/8 inch holes in flashing, align parts, and set rivets.
• Creating a home project binder: use a 3-hole paper punch with the alignment guide so pages flip smoothly without tearing.