A floor jack is a wheeled, hydraulic lifting tool with a long handle and a pivoting saddle that rolls under a vehicle and raises one corner or end by pumping the handle, allowing safe placement of jack stands for jobs like tire changes, brake work, or oil changes; compared with scissor or bottle jacks, it offers smoother lifting, better stability, and faster setup on flat, hard surfaces.
Floor Jack
A floor jack (also called a service or trolley jack) is a hydraulic tool designed to lift part of a vehicle so you can place jack stands and work safely. It has a long, low body on wheels, a pump handle, and a round lifting pad called a saddle. By pumping the handle, you pressurize hydraulic fluid that drives a piston upward, raising the saddle and the load.
How a Floor Jack Works
Inside the jack is a small oil-filled cylinder. Pumping the handle moves fluid through valves into the main cylinder, extending a ram that lifts the arm and saddle. A release valve lets the fluid return, lowering the jack in a controlled way. Because hydraulics multiply force, you can lift a heavy corner of a car with modest effort. The wheels (casters) let the jack roll slightly as the suspension rises, keeping the saddle centered under the lift point.
Common Uses in DIY and Home Garages
- Tire changes and seasonal wheel swaps
- Brake pad and rotor replacement
- Suspension work (shocks, struts, control arms)
- Oil changes and undercar inspections
- Exchanging flat tires for spares at home
- Lifting lawn tractors or trailers (within rated capacity and with stands)
Note: A floor jack is for vehicles and rolling equipment. For lifting structures like decks or beams, use appropriate house jacks or screw jacks designed for structural loads.
Types and Variations
- Steel floor jack: Durable and often more affordable, but heavier. Good for home garages where portability is not a priority.
- Aluminum floor jack: Lighter and easier to carry, popular for track days or moving around a small garage. Typically costs more.
- Low-profile floor jack: Has a shorter minimum saddle height to fit under cars with low ground clearance.
- High-lift floor jack: Offers a taller maximum lift for trucks and SUVs. Check both minimum and maximum heights.
- Rapid pump or dual-piston jack: Fewer handle strokes to reach the frame or pinch weld, speeding up the lift.
- Long-reach jack: Longer chassis and arm to access deeper lift points under vehicles with extended overhangs.
Related but different: a bottle jack is compact and powerful but has a taller starting height and smaller footprint, making it less handy under low cars. A scissor jack is lightweight and included with many cars for roadside use, but it is slower and less stable than a floor jack.
How to Choose the Right Floor Jack
- Capacity: Common ratings are 2-ton and 3-ton. Choose a jack rated at or above half your vehicle’s gross weight, with a margin. A 3-ton jack suits most midsize SUVs and sedans.
- Lift range: Check minimum saddle height (can it fit under your car?) and maximum height (enough to get wheels off the ground and stands under the frame?). Low vehicles benefit from a low-profile model; lifted trucks may need extra height.
- Build and weight: Steel for durability and budget; aluminum for portability. Look for a reinforced lift arm and a wide, stable frame.
- Pumping action: Dual-piston or rapid-lift designs save time. A long handle gives more leverage and control.
- Saddle and pads: A rubber saddle pad helps protect lift points. If your car uses pinch weld lift points, consider a pinch-weld adapter that fits the saddle.
- Wheels: Metal casters roll better under load. Large rear wheels improve stability.
- Compliance: Look for jacks tested to current safety standards (e.g., ASME PASE). Buy from reputable brands and retailers.
Safe Use: Step-by-Step
- Prepare the area: Work on a flat, hard surface like concrete. Avoid soft ground and hot asphalt that can deform under load.
- Secure the vehicle: Put the transmission in Park (or in gear for manuals), set the parking brake, and chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
- Find lift points: Consult the vehicle manual for approved jacking points on the frame, subframe, differential, or pinch welds. Using the wrong spot can cause damage.
- Position the jack: Roll the jack so the saddle is centered under the lift point. If using a pad or pinch-weld adapter, seat it squarely.
- Pump to contact: Pump the handle until the saddle just touches, then check alignment. Continue lifting smoothly to your target height.
- Place jack stands: Slide stands under the recommended support points and set them to equal heights.
- Lower onto stands: Slowly open the release valve to lower the vehicle onto the stands. Gently test stability by nudging the vehicle.
- Work safely: Keep body parts out from under any area not supported by stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Finish up: After the job, raise the vehicle slightly to unload the stands, remove them, and lower the vehicle slowly. Torque lug nuts to spec if you removed wheels.
Maintenance and Storage
- Inspect before use: Check for leaks, bent parts, damaged casters, and a worn saddle pad.
- Hydraulic oil: If the jack feels spongy or won’t reach full height, check the oil level and bleed air per the manual. Use jack oil only; do not use brake fluid.
- Keep it clean: Wipe away dirt and road grit that can damage seals or casters.
- Lubricate: Lightly oil pivot points and caster axles.
- Storage: Lower the saddle fully, close the release valve, and store on a level surface. Do not store with a load on the jack.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Exceeding the rated capacity of the jack or jack stands.
- Lifting on soft, sloped, or uneven surfaces.
- Using the wrong lift point or contacting exhaust, body panels, or plastic covers.
- Placing wood blocks on the saddle that can split or slip. Use a proper rubber pad or adapter instead.
- Standing in the line of travel while lowering; keep clear in case the vehicle shifts.
- Confusing ratings: Some jack stands are rated per pair, others per stand. Read the label carefully.
Related Terms
- Jack stands
- Bottle jack
- Scissor jack
- Service jack / Trolley jack
- Wheel chocks
- Pinch-weld adapter / Jack pad
- Lift points
- Hydraulic fluid (jack oil)
- Creeper (mechanic’s dolly)
Practical Examples
- Rotating tires: Use the floor jack to lift one end at a time at the front crossmember or rear differential (if allowed by the manufacturer), set stands under the pinch welds or frame, swap wheels front-to-back, and torque lugs to spec.
- Brake job: Jack and support the corner you’re servicing, remove the wheel, and work on pads or rotors with the vehicle safely on stands.
- Oil change: Lift the front of a low car with a low-profile jack, place stands at the recommended points, and gain safe access to the drain plug and filter.
- Lawn tractor maintenance: If within capacity, lift the front axle of a mower and support it on stands to service blades. Always verify stable support points.
A well-chosen floor jack, used with proper stands and safe habits, makes common garage jobs faster and safer while protecting your vehicle and you.