A cordless drill is a handheld, battery-powered tool that spins drill or driver bits to bore holes and drive screws in wood, metal, plastic, and light masonry, with variable speed and adjustable torque, a quick-change chuck, and built-in safety features, giving you portable power for repairs, furniture assembly, and many home projects without the hassle of a trailing power cord.
What is a cordless drill?
A cordless drill is a battery-powered tool used to drill holes and drive screws without being tethered to an outlet. It has a motor, a trigger for variable speed, a torque clutch to prevent overdriving, and a keyless chuck that holds drill or driver bits. Most models include a two-speed gearbox, an LED work light, and a removable lithium-ion battery that snaps into the handle or base.
How a cordless drill works
Squeeze the trigger and the motor spins the chuck. The variable-speed trigger lets you start slowly to position the bit, then increase speed as the hole or screw progresses. A numbered clutch ring limits torque; once the set torque is reached, the clutch slips to protect the screw, the bit, and your wrist. Many drills have a low-speed, high-torque setting for driving and a high-speed setting for drilling small holes. Modern brushless motors adjust power more efficiently and run cooler.
Common uses in DIY and home improvement
- Drilling pilot holes and clearance holes in lumber for clean, straight screws
- Driving cabinet screws, deck screws, drywall screws, and lag screws with the clutch
- Installing hardware such as hinges, handles, and shelf brackets
- Boring larger holes with spade bits or hole saws for door latches, pipe runs, and cable pass-throughs
- Mixing small batches of paint, thinset, or joint compound with a mixing paddle
- Assembling flat-pack furniture and building storage projects
- Drilling metal with high-speed steel bits and cutting oil
- Light masonry tasks like drilling for wall anchors using a hammer-drill model and masonry bits
Types and variations
- Drill-driver: The common household drill for drilling and screwdriving. Usually compact and light, with a clutch and two-speed gearbox.
- Hammer drill-driver: Adds a hammering action for faster drilling in brick, block, and concrete. Heavier and louder; the hammer mode is switched off for wood and metal.
- Compact 12V class: Light, easy to handle for overhead work and tight spaces. Good for cabinetry, electrical plates, and general repairs.
- 18V or 20V max class: The go-to for framing, decking, and larger holes. More torque and runtime, slightly heavier.
- Right-angle drill: Head is at a right angle to the handle for drilling between studs or joists.
- Chuck sizes: Commonly 3-8-inch for lighter duty and 1-2-inch for larger bits. Most are keyless chucks for quick bit changes.
- Brushed vs brushless motors: Brushless models offer more power per battery charge, less heat, and reduced maintenance, often at a higher price.
How to choose the right cordless drill
- Match the battery system: Pick a brand platform you can expand. Batteries and chargers usually work across the same voltage line.
- Power and speed: For general home use, a quality 12V drill is capable. For frequent deck building, hole saws, or long structural screws, step up to 18V or 20V max. Look for two speed ranges and a wide clutch setting range.
- Ergonomics and weight: Test the grip, balance with the battery attached, and overall weight. A comfortable drill reduces fatigue and improves control.
- Chuck quality: A metal, ratcheting chuck grips bits more securely and resists loosening.
- Motor type: Brushless is efficient and durable; worth it if you use the tool often.
- Hammer function: Choose a hammer drill if you occasionally drill masonry. Otherwise, you can skip the extra weight and cost.
- Batteries and charger: Two batteries keep you working. Higher amp-hour ratings increase runtime, and a fast charger reduces downtime.
- Features: An LED light, belt hook, bit holder, and a sturdy case or bag add convenience.
- Warranty and service: Check coverage length and local service options.
Tips for safe use and maintenance
- Mark and measure: Use a center punch or an awl to keep drill bits from wandering.
- Choose the right bit: Wood, metal, and masonry each need the proper bit type and speed. Keep bits sharp.
- Start slow: Begin at low speed to align the bit, then increase speed as needed. Use high speed for small bits, low speed for large bits and screwdriving.
- Use the clutch: Set the clutch low for small screws and increase gradually to avoid stripping or snapping fasteners.
- Pre-drill and countersink: Pilot holes reduce splitting and make driving cleaner. A countersink makes screw heads sit flush.
- Secure the workpiece: Clamp boards to a bench. Never hold small pieces in your hand while drilling.
- Battery care: Store lithium-ion batteries in a cool, dry place around half charge if not used for months. Avoid extreme heat and deep discharge.
- Keep it clean: Brush dust out of vents, wipe the chuck jaws, and occasionally add a drop of light oil to the chuck mechanism.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using the wrong bit or dull bits, which causes burning, chatter, and poor holes
- Driving on drill mode instead of using the clutch, leading to stripped screws or overdriven fasteners
- Drilling masonry without hammer mode and masonry bits, which overheats the bit and stalls the drill
- Running high speed with large hole saws or spade bits; use low speed and steady pressure
- Skipping pilot holes in hardwood, which can split boards and twist your wrist
- Letting the bit walk; always mark and start slowly
- Forcing the tool; if it bogs down, back out, clear chips, and try again
Related terms
- Chuck: The jaws at the front of the drill that hold the bit. Keyless chucks tighten by hand.
- Clutch: Adjustable ring that limits torque to prevent overdriving screws.
- Torque: Twisting force; higher torque helps with big screws and large bits.
- RPM: Revolutions per minute; higher RPM is faster for small bits.
- Battery amp-hours Ah: Indicates runtime. Higher Ah generally means longer run per charge.
- Brushless motor: Electronic motor design with higher efficiency and less wear.
- Impact driver: A separate tool that delivers rotational impacts for driving screws and lag bolts more easily.
- Hammer drill: A drill with a percussive action for masonry work.
Practical examples
- Hanging a curtain rod: Locate studs with a stud finder. Mark holes, drill 1-8-inch pilot holes at low speed, then switch to a driver bit, set the clutch low, and drive the screws without stripping.
- Installing a door latch: Use a hole saw for the knob hole and a spade or auger bit for the latch bore. Run low speed, back out to clear chips, and use a countersink for clean screw heads on the strike plate.
- Building a storage shelf: Pre-drill and countersink screw locations in the rails, then switch to a driver bit. Set low gear and adjust the clutch so screws seat flush without crushing the wood.
- Drilling metal brackets: Clamp the work, mark with a center punch, use a high-speed steel bit, a drop of cutting oil, and moderate speed. Let the bit do the work.
- Anchoring into brick: If your drill has hammer mode, fit a masonry bit, set hammer on, and drill at moderate pressure. Insert appropriate anchors, then drive the screws using the clutch.
A good cordless drill, paired with the right bits and careful technique, covers most household drilling and fastening tasks with confidence and control.