What Is a Cabinet Hinge?

A cabinet hinge is the jointed hardware that connects a cabinet door to the cabinet box, allowing the door to pivot. Hinges influence how a door sits on the cabinet (overlay, half-overlay, or inset), how wide it opens, and how smoothly or quietly it closes. Modern hinges can be subtle and adjustable, making installation and alignment much easier for DIYers.

Where You’ll Use It

• Kitchen and bathroom cabinets
• Pantry and utility cupboards
• Built-ins like bookcases with doors or entertainment centers
• Workshop and garage storage cabinets

Anywhere a small door needs to swing on a small frame, you’ll likely find a cabinet hinge.

Common Types of Cabinet Hinges

Understanding basic types helps you match replacement parts and plan new builds.

• Concealed (European) hinges: Hidden when the door is closed. They use a round “cup” bored into the back of the door (commonly 35 mm diameter) and a mounting plate on the cabinet. They offer 3-way adjustment (up/down, side-to-side, in/out) and options like soft-close. Popular for frameless cabinets and also available for face-frame cabinets with special plates.

• Butt hinges (traditional): Two metal leaves with a pin, usually visible when the door is closed. Often mortised (recessed) into the door and frame. Common on traditional face-frame cabinetry and furniture.

• No-mortise/surface-mount hinges: Install on the surface without carving recesses. Faster to install and handy for shop cabinets or quick updates.

• Wrap-around and partial wrap hinges: The hinge leaf wraps around the cabinet frame edge for extra strength and alignment. Often used on face-frame cabinets.

• Demountable hinges: Designed for face-frame cabinets; the door or the frame side can be removed without unscrewing the hinge from both parts. Handy for finishing or cleaning.

• Specialty European variants:

  • Soft-close: Built-in dampers slow the door for a quiet close.
  • Self-close: Springs pull the door shut at the end of travel.
  • Opening angle options: 95°, 110°, 120°, 155°–170° for wide access.
  • Compact hinges: For face-frame cabinets where space is tight.

Overlay Styles (How the Door Sits)

• Full overlay: The door covers most or all of the cabinet face or box side.
• Half overlay: Two doors share a partition; each overlays part of the edge.
• Inset: The door sits flush inside the cabinet opening. Requires precise alignment and specific hinges.

How to Choose the Right Hinge

1. Cabinet construction:

   • Face-frame: A front frame outlines the opening. Choose hinges labeled for face-frame use or select mounting plates designed for frames.
   • Frameless (Euro-style): Box sides form the opening; mounting plates attach directly to the cabinet side.

2. Door style (overlay vs. inset):

   • Measure existing overlay: close the door and measure from the edge of the cabinet opening to the edge of the door. That number guides hinge/plate selection.
   • For inset doors, choose hinges specifically rated for inset and follow the manufacturer’s reveal recommendations.

3. Door size and weight:

   • Two hinges are typical for doors up to about 40 inches tall. Use three hinges for taller/heavier doors to prevent sag.

4. Opening angle and clearance:

   • Consider nearby walls, appliances, or adjacent doors. A 110° hinge is common; choose 155°–170° for pull-out trays or deep access.

5. Closing behavior:

   • Soft-close for quiet operation in kitchens and baths.
   • Self-close for a positive shut without dampening.

6. Environment and finish:

   • Kitchens and baths benefit from corrosion-resistant finishes. In humid or coastal areas, look for stainless or high-quality plated hinges.

7. Mounting and adjustability:

   • Clip-on European hinges make removal and door adjustments faster. Confirm your mounting plate height and system if replacing existing hardware.

Basic Installation and Adjustment Tips

• Tools: Tape measure, square, pencil, drill/driver, 35 mm Forstner bit (about 1-3/8 in.) for concealed hinges, hinge jig (optional but helpful), small screws, and a hand screwdriver for final snugging.

• Boring the hinge cup (European style):

  • Common cup size: 35 mm diameter, cup depth about 12–13 mm. Always confirm with your hinge’s instructions and your door thickness.
  • Keep the cup hole a safe distance from the door edge (often 3–5 mm “tab”). A drilling jig keeps holes straight and repeatable.

• Mounting plates:

  • Face-frame cabinets may need a specific plate height or a bracket that offsets to the frame. Frameless cabinets mount directly to the side panel.
  • System holes at 32 mm spacing are common in frameless cabinetry; use Euro screws if your cabinet is pre-drilled.

• Three-way adjustment (on many concealed hinges):

  • Side-to-side: Aligns the gap between doors and the case.
  • Depth (in/out): Brings the door closer to or farther from the cabinet.
  • Height (up/down): Moves the door along its vertical axis; sometimes done at the mounting plate.

• Quick alignment tips:

  • Work from a reference door. Align one door perfectly, then match others to it.
  • Aim for an even reveal (gap) around 1/16–1/8 inch, consistent across doors.
  • Add clear bumpers on door corners to prevent slamming and reduce rattles.

Maintenance and Quick Fixes

• Tighten loose screws and consider longer screws into solid wood if holes are stripped (toothpicks and glue can fill a hole in a pinch).
• For concealed hinges, replace worn soft-close dampers rather than oiling the hinge. For exposed hinges, a drop of light oil can quiet squeaks.
• Clean grease and dust; buildup can affect closing action.
• Replace only the failed part if possible. Many European hinges allow swapping the damper or the hinge body without changing the plate.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Choosing the wrong overlay or plate height: The door won’t land where you expect. Measure existing overlays before ordering replacements.
• Mixing face-frame and frameless parts: A hinge and plate must be compatible with your cabinet style.
• Boring the cup too deep or too close to the edge: Can blow through the door face. Test on scrap and use a depth stop.
• Over-tightening screws: Strips holes and makes later adjustment difficult. Snug, don’t crush.
• Using too few hinges on tall doors: Leads to sagging or binding.
• Ignoring opening clearance: Doors may hit walls, handles, or adjacent doors; pick the right opening angle.

Related Terms

• Overlay: How much a door covers the cabinet opening or frame.
• Inset: Door sits flush inside the opening.
• Hinge cup: The round recess in the back of the door for concealed hinges.
• Mounting plate: The piece that attaches to the cabinet and mates with the hinge arm.
• Soft-close damper: A device that slows the door as it closes.
• Forstner bit: A drill bit used to bore clean, flat-bottomed holes (ideal for 35 mm hinge cups).

Practical Examples

• Upgrading to soft-close in a kitchen: Identify your existing concealed hinge brand or overlay, then buy compatible soft-close hinges or clip-on dampers. Swap one door first to confirm fit, then proceed across the kitchen.

• Building a garage cabinet quickly: Use no-mortise surface-mount hinges. Mark hinge locations, pre-drill, and screw in place. It’s fast, forgiving, and perfect for shop storage.

• Fixing a sagging bathroom door: Add a third concealed hinge at mid-height or tighten existing screws and adjust the side-to-side and depth screws until the reveal is even and the latch side doesn’t rub.

By matching hinge type to cabinet style and door layout, and by using the adjusters built into modern hardware, you can get smooth, quiet, and long-lasting door action with straightforward tools and a bit of patience.