Brick trowel

A brick trowel is a hand tool with a flat, pointed steel blade and a handle, used to scoop, spread, shape, and cut mortar while laying bricks or blocks, helping masons butter joints, tap bricks into line, and clean up excess, making it the go‑to tool for building walls, repairing masonry, and small concrete tasks.

Brick Trowel: What It Is and How to Use It

A brick trowel is the classic mason’s hand tool: a pointed, slightly flexible steel blade attached to a handle, designed for moving and shaping mortar. You use it to lift mortar from a board or bucket, spread it on the bed (the horizontal layer), apply mortar to the ends of bricks (called buttering), and strike off or clean excess. The blade’s shape allows you to furrow mortar for better brick bond and to nudge bricks into position with controlled taps.

Common Uses in DIY and Home Projects

  • Building short brick walls, planters, and garden borders
  • Repointing (removing and replacing deteriorated mortar joints)
  • Resetting loose bricks in steps, chimneys, or retaining walls
  • Small blockwork repairs (concrete masonry units)
  • Filling gaps or voids in masonry and trimming excess mortar

If you’re laying even a few bricks, a brick trowel makes the job faster, cleaner, and more consistent than improvising with a putty knife or scraper.

Types and Variations

Brick trowels come in several patterns and sizes. The differences affect how the mortar loads on the blade and how easily you can work in tight spaces.

  • London Pattern: A narrower heel that tapers, good for general bricklaying. It carries a moderate amount of mortar and feels nimble.
  • Wide London Pattern: Similar to London but with a wider heel to hold more mortar. Popular for larger loads and longer runs of brick.
  • Philadelphia Pattern: A wider blade overall, preferred for blockwork or when you want to carry a heavy load of mortar.

Other variations you might see:

  • Blade length: Commonly 10–13 inches. Shorter blades (10–11 in.) feel controllable for beginners and detail work; longer blades (12–13 in.) move more mortar per scoop.
  • Steel type: Carbon steel is traditional and develops a smooth "seasoned" surface with use, but can rust if neglected. Stainless steel resists rust and cleans easily, though some prefer the feel of carbon steel.
  • Handle material: Wood, plastic, or soft-grip composites. Choose what feels comfortable and secure when your hands are dusty or damp.
  • Left- and right-hand versions: Some trowels are angled for dominant hand use to keep knuckles clear of the work face. If you’re left-handed, look for a left-hand model.

Related tools often confused with a brick trowel:

  • Pointing trowel: Smaller, for tight joints and detail repointing.
  • Margin trowel: Narrow rectangular blade, handy for scraping buckets and tight spots, but not ideal for laying bricks.
  • Gauging trowel: Rounded tip, used for mixing small batches and plaster work.

How to Choose the Right Brick Trowel

  • Match size to task: For starter projects and brickwork, a 11–12 inch London or Wide London is a friendly choice. For blockwork or larger hands, consider 12–13 inch or a Philadelphia pattern.
  • Check balance and feel: The tool should feel balanced in your hand, not tip-heavy. Grip it and mimic a scoop-and-spread motion in the store if possible.
  • Look for a smooth spine and edges: Slightly eased edges glide through mortar and reduce snags. Overly sharp corners can nick joints.
  • Handle comfort: A cushioned or contoured handle reduces fatigue. Make sure it won’t slip when dusty.
  • Build quality: A forged tang (the part embedded in the handle) and a stiff, springy blade signal durability and good control.

How to Use a Brick Trowel: Step-by-Step Basics

  1. Load the trowel: Pull mortar toward you on a mortarboard or from the bucket onto the blade in a single smooth motion. Don’t overload; aim for a comfortable mound.
  2. Spread the bed: Hold the blade at roughly a 30–45° angle and sweep mortar onto the course, keeping a consistent thickness (about 3/8 inch for most brick). Use the tip to create a slight furrow for suction.
  3. Butter the head joints: Pick up a small amount and swipe it onto the end of the brick. A quick twist of the wrist helps it stick.
  4. Set and tap: Place the brick into the bed and press down gently. Tap the top or the side with the handle butt to align and bring it to level with the string line.
  5. Strike off excess: Use the edge of the trowel to cut away squeeze-out and throw it back on the board.
  6. Tool the joint (after initial set): Once the mortar firms up slightly, switch to a jointer to compact and shape the joint for weather resistance.

Tips:

  • Keep the blade slightly damp so mortar releases cleanly.
  • Work from clean to dirty: don’t drag grit into fresh joints.
  • Refresh the mortar if it starts to stiffen; don’t over-water mix that has started to set.

Maintenance and Care

  • Clean immediately: Rinse or scrape off mortar before it hardens. A quick wipe with a sponge or stiff brush at the end of the session saves time later.
  • Prevent rust: For carbon steel, dry the blade and add a light coat of oil. Stainless needs less care but still appreciates a dry wipe.
  • Protect the edge: Store the trowel in a toolbox or sleeve. Avoid tossing it in with hard steel tools that can nick the blade.
  • Don’t pry: A brick trowel isn’t a lever or chisel. Prying can bend the blade or loosen the handle.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using the wrong size: A blade that’s too large can cause clumsy spreads; too small increases trips to the board and uneven beds.
  • Overly wet mortar: Thin mortar slumps and weakens joints. Mix to a peanut-butter-like consistency.
  • Tapping too hard: Heavy blows with the handle can squeeze out mortar and misalign the course.
  • Letting mortar dry on the blade: Dried buildup creates drags and ridges in your spreads.
  • Dragging dirt into joints: Keep the work face and tools clean to avoid weak, crumbly joints.

Related Tools and Terms

  • Brick jointer (jointing tool): Shapes and compresses finished mortar joints.
  • Mortarboard or hawk: A flat surface you load with mortar for easy access.
  • Mason’s line and line blocks: Guide the straightness and level of your courses.
  • Brick set (mason’s chisel): For cutting bricks.
  • Mortar types: Type N (general brickwork), Type S (stronger, exterior and below grade), etc.

Practical Examples

  • Repointing a garden wall: Use a brick trowel to rake out loose mortar (or a raking tool), mix fresh Type N mortar, then load the trowel and press mortar into the vertical and horizontal joints. Strike off excess with the trowel edge, then tool the joints once they begin to firm.

  • Resetting a loose step brick: Lift the brick, clean the bed, spread a fresh 3/8 inch layer of mortar with the trowel, butter the brick ends, set it back in place, and tap to line and level. Cut away squeeze-out with the trowel and tool the joint later.

  • Building a short planter: Snap a line, set your corner bricks first, and run mason’s line. Spread beds with a Wide London trowel, butter each brick, and place them to the line. Check level and plumb often, using the trowel edge to trim and tidy as you go.

With a little practice, the brick trowel becomes an extension of your hand—moving mortar exactly where you want it, keeping joints full, and helping you build neat, durable masonry that looks good and lasts.