A band saw is a power saw that uses a continuous looped blade running on two wheels to make straight, curved, and deep cuts in wood, plastic, and metal, delivering smooth, controlled cuts with a thin kerf and enabling tasks like resawing thick boards, shaping irregular patterns, and making cuts that may be awkward or unsafe on other saws.
What Is a Band Saw?
A band saw is a stationary or handheld power saw that cuts with a narrow, continuous steel blade formed into a loop and driven by two (sometimes three) wheels. Because the blade is always cutting in the same downward direction on a fixed table (for stationary models), it feels stable and predictable. Band saws shine at cutting curves, slicing thick stock, and turning rough lumber into usable boards. With the right blade and speed, they can also cut plastics and many metals.
Key terms:
- Throat: The distance from the blade to the frame, which limits the width of material you can cut.
- Resaw height (cutting height): The maximum thickness the saw can cut through vertically.
- Kerf: The width of the cut the blade makes.
- TPI (teeth per inch): Indicates how fine or coarse the blade is; higher TPI gives smoother cuts but cuts more slowly.
Common Uses and Applications
- Curved cuts and templates: Create arches, shelf brackets, cabriole legs, and other flowing shapes with precision.
- Resawing and bookmatching: Slice thick boards into thinner panels or veneers; open the pieces like a book for mirrored grain patterns.
- Ripping narrow strips: Safer than a table saw for very thin rips because the blade pulls down into the table.
- Cutting small parts: Less risk of kickback makes it friendly for delicate work.
- Breaking down rough stock: Trim live edges, square up bowl blanks, or reduce oversized boards.
- Non-wood materials: With a suitable blade and speed, cut PVC, ABS, aluminum, and steel. A dedicated metal-cutting band saw is recommended for frequent metal work.
Types and Variations
- Benchtop band saws (9–12 inch throat): Compact, budget-friendly, great for small shops and light-duty work. Limited resaw height and power.
- Floor-standing band saws (14 inch and up): Heavier frames, more power, larger resaw capacity, better for furniture building and frequent use.
- Portable/handheld band saws: Common on jobsites for cutting pipe, conduit, and metal stock. Can be mounted in a small table for light shop cuts.
- Wood vs. metal cutting:
- Woodworking saws run fast blade speeds and commonly use carbon steel or carbide-tipped blades.
- Metal-cutting saws run slower speeds and often use bi-metal blades; available in vertical (shop) and horizontal (cutoff) styles.
- Two-wheel vs. three-wheel: Two-wheel designs are most common and easier on blades. Three-wheel designs can offer more throat capacity but may cause tighter blade bending.
Choosing a Band Saw
Consider these points before buying:
- Capacity: Match the throat and resaw height to your projects. Furniture builders often favor 14 inches or more of throat and at least 6–12 inches of resaw height.
- Power: More horsepower helps with thick hardwoods. For hobby woodwork, 3/4 to 1.5 HP is common; larger saws may be 2 HP or more.
- Blade availability: Ensure you can easily find blades in the widths and TPI you need.
- Guides and bearings: Quality side guides and thrust bearings (ceramic or bearing types) improve accuracy and blade life.
- Fence and miter gauge: A solid fence improves straight cuts and resawing; a useful miter gauge helps with angled work.
- Dust collection: A port that matches your shop vac or dust system keeps the workspace cleaner and improves visibility.
- Convenience features: Quick-release blade tension, easy tracking adjustment, bright work light, and a large, flat table are all helpful.
Blade Basics
- Width: Wider blades track straighter for resawing; narrow blades turn tighter curves. Example radii: 1/8 inch blade for tight curves, 3/8–1/2 inch for general work, 3/4 inch or more for resawing.
- TPI: Lower TPI (3–6) for thick, fast cuts in wood; mid-range (6–10) for general use; higher TPI (14–24+) for thin stock and metals.
- Tooth pattern: Skip-tooth for clean wood cuts, hook-tooth for aggressive cutting, and variable pitch for smoother metal cuts.
- Material: Carbon steel for wood, bi-metal for metals and durability, carbide-tipped for heavy resawing and abrasive woods.
Setup and Safe Use Tips
- Blade installation: Unplug the saw. Fit the blade with teeth pointing down toward the table. Tension to the manufacturer’s guidance and confirm with a quick pluck test (a firm, low musical note is a rough indicator).
- Tracking and guides: Adjust tracking so the blade runs centered on the top wheel. Set side guides just off the blade’s sides and the thrust bearing just behind the blade.
- Guard height: Lower the upper guard to within about 1/4 inch of the workpiece for better control.
- Feed rate: Let the teeth cut. If the blade slows or deflects, back off. For tight curves, make relief cuts to remove waste and avoid binding.
- Use a fence for straight cuts: For resawing, a tall fence or point fence helps keep the board vertical and compensate for blade drift.
- Safety gear: Wear eye and hearing protection. Avoid gloves that could snag. Use push sticks for small pieces. Keep hands to the sides of the blade path, never directly in line.
- Metal cutting: Use the right blade and slow speed. Apply cutting fluid if recommended for the material.
Maintenance
- Blade care: Replace dull or damaged blades; they wander and burn. Clean pitch buildup with blade cleaner to maintain performance.
- Tension management: If your saw has a quick-release, ease tension after long breaks to extend blade and tire life.
- Wheel tires and bearings: Inspect for cracks or wear. Replace tires that have grooves or are shedding rubber.
- Alignment: Periodically check table squareness to the blade, fence alignment, and guide settings.
- Drive belt and pulleys: Ensure proper tension and condition for consistent speed.
- Table care: Keep the table waxed to reduce friction and prevent rust.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Wrong blade choice: Using a wide blade for tight curves or a fine TPI on thick wood leads to burning and wandering.
- Forcing the cut: Pushing too hard overheats the blade and causes drift.
- Poor guide setup: Loose or misaligned guides allow the blade to twist.
- Backtracking with the saw running: Pulling a workpiece straight back can derail the blade; instead, shut off the saw or back out along the kerf with gentle side-to-side motion.
- Cutting metal on a high-speed wood saw: Without proper speed and blade, you will dull the blade and risk damage.
Related Terms
- Jigsaw: Handheld saw for curves; good for sheet goods but less accurate on thick stock.
- Scroll saw: Stationary saw for very fine, intricate cuts in thin material.
- Table saw: Excellent for long, straight rips and crosscuts; complements a band saw.
- Resawing: Slicing a board into thinner layers along its thickness.
- Drift: The tendency of a blade to cut to one side due to set or alignment.
Practical Examples
- Curved shelf brackets: Trace a template on a 1x8, make relief cuts, and follow the line with a 1/4 inch, 6 TPI blade for smooth curves.
- Bookmatched panels: Use a 3/4 inch carbide blade to resaw a 6 inch wide walnut board, then plane the two faces and glue for a mirrored grain door panel.
- Safe thin rips: Rip 1/8 inch edging strips from maple using the fence and a featherboard to hold stock against the table.
- Metal conduit cuts: With a portable band saw and 14–18 TPI bi-metal blade, cut EMT cleanly without sparks.
- PVC pipe trimming: Use a fine-tooth blade and slow feed to prevent chipping and binding.
With the right setup and blade choice, a band saw can deliver clean, accurate cuts on a wide range of shop and home projects, from shaping decorative parts to preparing lumber for fine furniture.