An apron sink, often called a farmhouse sink, is a deep, wide sink with a visible front panel ("apron") that replaces a section of the countertop and cabinet face, installed so the sink’s front edge is exposed, offering easy reach, extra capacity for large pots or trays, and a distinctive design used in kitchens and laundry rooms across materials like fireclay, cast iron, stainless steel, copper, and composites.
What is an apron sink?
An apron sink—also known as a farmhouse sink—is a large sink with a front face that remains visible after installation. Instead of being fully surrounded by countertop material, its front "apron" takes the place of a portion of the counter and cabinet face. This brings the basin closer to you, reduces the counter edge you lean over, and allows for a deeper, wider bowl that handles bulky cookware, baking sheets, and cleaning tasks with ease.
Traditional apron sinks were built for heavy, daily use on farms, where depth and durability were priorities. Today they’re popular in modern and classic kitchens and in laundry or utility rooms for their mix of function and style.
Where it’s used
- Kitchens: Great for washing oversized pots, sheet pans, and produce. The exposed front adds a focal point and can protect the cabinet face from repeated splashes if properly sealed.
- Laundry/utility rooms: Ideal for soaking clothes, rinsing paint tools, and cleaning pet items. Stainless or composite models are common here due to durability.
- Retrofits and remodels: Apron-front designs can be added to many existing kitchens with some cabinet modification, or by selecting a retrofit/drop-in style designed to simplify the process.
Types and variations
By material
- Fireclay: Kiln-fired ceramic that’s dense and smooth, with a glossy finish. Resists stains and scratches well. Heavier and usually expensive. Can craze or chip if struck hard.
- Cast iron (enamel-coated): Extremely tough with a glossy enamel surface. Excellent heat and stain resistance. Heavy; enamel can chip if abused.
- Stainless steel: Lighter weight, modern look, and forgiving on dropped dishes. Gauge (thickness) matters—lower numbers mean thicker steel (16–18 gauge is common). More prone to showing water spots without regular wiping.
- Composite/granite composite: Blend of stone and resin. Good scratch and heat resistance, matte textures, and a range of colors. Requires specific cleaners to avoid dulling the finish.
- Copper: Warm, living finish that develops a patina. Naturally antimicrobial. Needs gentle cleaning and occasional waxing; acidic foods can temporarily lighten the surface.
- Stone or concrete: Custom looks and substantial weight. Requires sealing and careful support. Often pricier and best handled by pros.
By bowl configuration
- Single bowl: One large, open space—most capacity for big items.
- Double bowl: Two compartments for separating tasks (wash/rinse, prep/cleanup). Options include equal or offset sizes.
By drain placement
- Center drain: Traditional layout; simple to align with existing plumbing.
- Rear or offset drain: Keeps the drain area away from the center, leaving more flat space for stacking and improves under-sink storage.
By mounting style and reveal
- Undermount: Sink attaches below solid-surface counters (stone, quartz, solid surface) for a clean edge. Common for apron fronts.
- Top-mount (drop-in) apron-front: Has a rim that sits on the countertop—useful with laminate or when you want easier retrofit.
- Reveal options: The amount of sink edge you see inside the counter opening.
- Positive reveal: a small lip of sink is visible.
- Zero reveal: countertop edge is flush with the sink wall.
- Negative reveal: countertop slightly overhangs the sink edge to hide it.
How to choose and maintain
Sizing and fit
- Cabinet width: Most apron sinks are 30–36 inches wide. Many require a sink base cabinet 3 inches wider than the sink (e.g., 33-inch sink needs a 36-inch base). Check the manufacturer’s minimum.
- Apron height and cutout: Apron heights vary (often 8–10 inches). Make sure your cabinet doors and face frame can be trimmed or replaced to fit.
- Depth and clearance: Bowls are typically 9–10 inches deep. Verify clearance for garbage disposal, plumbing traps, and any pull-out trash or drawers.
- Weight and support: Fireclay and cast iron models can weigh 80–150 lbs empty. Plan for a support cradle or rails inside the cabinet and have two people for lifting.
Countertop compatibility
- Undermount: Best with stone/quartz/solid-surface. Requires accurate templating and professional fabrication.
- Laminate: Choose a top-mount apron sink to protect the substrate from water and to avoid exposed laminate edges.
Faucet and accessories
- Faucet reach/height: Pick a spout that reaches near the center of the bowl and has enough height for pots without causing overspray.
- Grids and racks: Bottom grids protect the finish and improve drainage. Drying racks, cutting boards, and colanders that fit the ledge can expand functionality.
Care by material
- Fireclay/cast iron: Use non-abrasive cleaners. A gentle scrub with a soft sponge and dish soap works. Avoid dropping cast iron cookware into the basin.
- Stainless steel: Rinse and wipe dry to minimize water spots. Use a stainless cleaner or baking soda paste for tougher marks.
- Composite: Clean with mild dish soap and a soft cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals; use manufacturer-recommended cleaners.
- Copper: Rinse and dry; avoid abrasive pads. Expect patina changes. Apply food-safe wax if you prefer a more stable tone.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Skipping cabinet reinforcement: Heavy sinks need strong support—don’t rely on the countertop alone.
- Forgetting the reveal decision: Decide positive/zero/negative reveal before templating; it affects cut lines and cleaning.
- Choosing the wrong mounting for your countertop: Undermounting to laminate invites water damage; pick a drop-in apron style instead.
- Misaligning the drain: Verify center or offset drain locations against existing plumbing to minimize rerouting.
- Neglecting sealant details: Use quality silicone at the sink-to-counter seam and protect any exposed wood with waterproofing.
- Overlooking faucet reach: A short spout can cause splash and awkward use in a deep bowl.
- Using harsh cleaners: Abrasives can dull or chip finishes, especially on enamel, fireclay, and composites.
Related terms
- Farmhouse sink: Another name for apron sink.
- Undermount sink: Installed beneath the countertop for a seamless edge.
- Drop-in (top-mount) sink: Rim rests on top of the counter cutout.
- Sink base cabinet: Cabinet designed to house a sink; apron-front versions have a shorter face panel.
- Reveal: The amount of sink lip showing at the counter opening.
- Sink grid: Protective rack that sits at the bottom of the basin.
Practical examples
- Kitchen remodel with fireclay: You choose a 33-inch single-bowl fireclay apron sink for a 36-inch base cabinet. The installer builds support rails inside the cabinet, templates a zero-reveal quartz top, and pairs a high-arc pull-down faucet with a rear-offset drain to free up under-sink space. A stainless bottom grid prevents scuffs.
- Retrofit in a laminate kitchen: To avoid changing counters, you select a top-mount stainless apron-front sink sized to fit your 33-inch cabinet opening. The rim covers the cut edges of the laminate, and the apron adds the look without a full cabinet rebuild.
- Laundry room upgrade: A 30-inch composite apron sink with a single bowl and rear drain provides a deep space for soaking. A wall-mount faucet frees deck space, and a simple silicone bead plus a splash guard behind the faucet keeps moisture off the cabinet.
With careful sizing, proper support, and the right material for your lifestyle, an apron sink can handle heavy daily tasks and add a standout feature to your kitchen or laundry.