Short answer
Yes—there are several low-cost ways to noticeably reduce sound transfer. Start by sealing air gaps (acoustic caulk, weatherstripping, and door sweeps), add soft, dense materials (rugs with thick pads, bookcases full of books, and heavy curtains), treat outlets and thin doors (foam gaskets, door seals), and consider DIY acoustic panels. These steps are inexpensive, renter-friendly, and provide real improvement for voices, TV noise, and general household sounds.
Why these methods work
Sound leaks through two main paths:
- Airborne paths (voices, TV): Blocked by sealing gaps and adding mass.
- Structure-borne paths (footsteps, bass): Harder to fix cheaply; focus on softening impact surfaces (rugs/pads) and masking noise (white noise machines).
The four principles to remember: add mass, seal gaps, absorb reflections, and decouple where possible. On a budget, sealing and absorption deliver the best value.
Step-by-step: High-impact, low-cost fixes
1) Hunt down leaks (30–60 minutes)
- Close the door, turn off HVAC, and do a flashlight test around door/window edges at night.
- Use a stick of incense or a smoke pencil around baseboards, outlets, and trim—the smoke will show air movement where sound also passes.
2) Seal the room perimeter (1–2 hours)
- Materials: acoustic sealant (or high-quality flexible sealant), painter’s tape, backer rod for big gaps.
- Steps:
- Run painter’s tape along edges for a neat bead.
- Caulk gaps at baseboards, crown, window and door casings, and where drywall meets trim or floor. Push in backer rod first on gaps larger than 1/4 inch.
- Smooth with a damp finger or caulk tool, remove tape, and let cure.
3) Quiet the door (1 hour)
- Materials: adhesive weatherstripping, door sweep or automatic door bottom, optional door shoe; draft stopper for renters.
- Tools: tape measure, scissors/utility knife, screwdriver/drill.
- Steps:
- Add compressible weatherstrip around the jamb so the door seals when closed.
- Install a door sweep at the bottom to close the largest leakage point.
- If the door is hollow-core, hang a heavy blanket or moving pad on the room side as a removable mass layer.
Target gaps after sealing
- Door sides/top: ~1/16–1/8 in with weatherstrip compression
- Door bottom: ≤ 1/8 in after sweep/automatic bottom
4) Treat outlets and switches (20–40 minutes)
- Materials: foam outlet gaskets (very cheap), childproof plugs for unused outlets, optional putty pads for shared walls.
- Steps:
- Turn off power, remove cover plates, install foam gaskets, reinstall plates.
- For best results on party walls, wrap boxes with UL-rated putty pads (more effective, still modest cost).
5) Add mass and absorption on surfaces (30–90 minutes)
- Floors: lay thick area rugs over dense felt or rubber underlay. This helps upstairs impact noise and reduces echo.
- Windows: hang dense, heavy curtains or layered drapes; also add rope caulk to window tracks and trim seams.
- Walls: place a filled bookcase or wardrobes on the shared wall; pack with books, records, or storage bins.
- DIY panels: build 2x4 ft panels from mineral wool or fiberglass board (covered in breathable fabric) and hang at ear height to cut reflections and perceived loudness.
6) Mask what remains (5 minutes)
- Use a fan or white-noise machine at night to cover low-level neighbor noise inexpensively.
Materials and tool list
- Acoustic sealant or high-flex caulk: $7–12/tube
- Backer rod: $5–10/pack
- Weatherstripping (closed-cell foam or silicone): $8–20
- Door sweep or draft stopper: $10–30
- Foam outlet/switch gaskets: $5–10 per 10-pack
- Heavy curtains or moving blankets: $20–60
- Rug with dense felt/rubber pad: $40–150 (size-dependent)
- DIY panel materials (per 2x4 ft): mineral wool/fiberglass board, fabric, furring strips: $20–40
- Tools: utility knife, scissors, caulk gun, screwdriver/drill, tape measure, level, stapler or staple gun for DIY panels
Safety notes
- Turn off power at the breaker before working on outlets/switches. Verify with a non-contact voltage tester.
- Wear gloves, long sleeves, eye protection, and a dust mask when handling mineral wool or fiberglass.
- Don’t block return air grills, sprinkler heads, or egress paths with curtains, panels, or bookcases.
- Use only UL-rated putty pads for electrical boxes; keep clearance around heaters/radiators.
Tips for best results
- Treat both sides of a shared door if possible (weatherstrip + sweep on one side, dense curtain on the other).
- Heavier and denser beats thicker-but-light materials. A dense rug pad or packed bookcase is far more effective than thin foam.
- Focus effort on the weakest link: under-door gap, leaky window sashes, or a bare shared wall.
- In apartments, use removable products: draft stoppers, removable rope caulk, 3M strips for hanging panels and curtains.
Common mistakes
- Relying on thin “acoustic foam” alone—it reduces echo but does little to block neighbor noise.
- Leaving small gaps around doors/baseboards. Tiny openings leak a surprising amount of sound.
- Expecting cheap fixes to stop heavy footfall or bass. Aim for reduction and masking, not total silence.
- Over-expanding foam near trim/windows; it can warp frames. Use low-expansion foam or backer rod + caulk.
When to call a pro
- Persistent low-frequency or impact noise (footsteps) from above usually needs structural changes (resilient channels, double drywall with damping, floating floors). That’s beyond DIY and may require permits.
- In condos/townhomes with party-wall codes or HOA rules, consult management or a contractor before adding mass-loaded layers or modifying shared walls/ceilings.
By sealing leaks, upgrading the door perimeter, treating outlets, and adding dense soft finishes, most people can cut perceived noise noticeably for under $150–$300 and a weekend of light DIY.